Mahinepua Peninsula Walkway- Northland

Catch-up

The Mahinepua Peninsula Walkway track leaves the beach at the north end of Mahinepua Bay. I'd highly recommend this walk if you are in the area visiting or camping. It is one of the most stunning short walks I've done, with fabulous views over a spectacular and dramatic coastline.

The 3km (one way) DOC walking track weaves it's way along the narrow spine of the peninsula to a trig point at the far end. There is access to a number of small coves during the first half of the walk, ideal places to stop for a quick swim or a picnic lunch.

The walk starts innocuously enough, through a small pine plantation and alongside private property. I thought it was very kind of DOC to send in the lawnmower and weed-eater workers a day ahead of my walk, the track was in pristine condition.

The track proper starts on the seaward side and then climbs a little way winding around a small bluff back to the bay side of the peninsula and through a stand of large overhanging Pohutukawa trees...

...before breaking out into the open where there are magnificent views back to the campsite and beach at Mahinepua.

Outer Mahinepua Bay and the Cavalli Islands are ahead as the track...

...drops down to one of  the sheltered coves. From here I can also see the track winding it's way around the next hill....

...and up a steep stairway in the distance which is where I spot a person ahead of me disappearing over the top (click photo to enlarge)

Down in the cove the flax bushes are in flower and a few tui are flying about fighting each other for the nectar. I love early summer when the tall plump flower spikes are shooting skywards from the middle of the bushes. Blue waters, golden sand and flowering flax must be one of New Zealand's most iconic sights.

There was a tui on this bush but he departed before I could capture him so you've got the flower spike instead!

The view back towards camp gets even better from the top of the next climb; that's the cove below now from the other side.

Once the track reaches the stairway, which is on the ocean side of the peninsula...

...the views are spectacular looking north along a rugged coast, the cliffs drop into the deep emerald green sea with swirling white water rising and falling around the many small reefs and rock stacks dotted along the shoreline.

The higher you climb the better the view back to camp gets...

And towards the top of the stairs you can also see up the coast towards Whangaroa Bay & Harbour; the large island is Stephenson Island/Mahinepua Island which is just off Tauranga Bay.

There's a beautiful stand of Mamaku (Black Tree Fern) with their feathery lime green fronds spread wide through the regenerating bush on the inside of the peninsula...

...just before another short sharp climb to the top where the scrub has been tortured into shape by the prevailing winds racing up the cliffs from the sea below.

And from the top, the highest point on the walk, there are now magnificent views along the coastline looking north.

Towards the end of the track there's a short loop option which I take.

It adds more interest to the 'there & back' track and only another 5 minutes to the complete walk. I'm still pretty chuffed that DOC have been in to do the track as it would have been tough walking in the long grass with all the seed heads and black pollen floating about.

There are more reefs and rock stacks below and also sudden drop-offs from edge of the track, care would need to be taken if you had children with you.

It's not long before the end of the track and the final destination comes into view; Pakuru Point & Omiru Trig which is up on the top right beside the red dirt (wait, have I walked to Aussie?) 

I took the left hand track at the fork which proved to be the better option as it was mostly downhill until it joined up with the main track again where there's a very conveniently placed seat. From here you can also see the two islands that sit just off the tip of the peninsula; Motuekaiti & Motueka (Flat Island)

Then it was just a short uphill section to the trig station...

... and from there I could see back along the peninsula, the side track I'd taken in clear view.

Just ahead of the trig, a sign warned of dangers ahead. Of course me being me (inquisitive &/or nosy), I wanted to know what the danger was and what was on the otherside of those bushes....like dozens of other people by the look of all the footprints in the red dust.

I squeeze through the bush, scratching my arm on a broken branch in the process (punishment) and come to an abrupt halt. Ahead of me are the two islands and the last thin spine of the peninsula which looks to be slippery red rock layered in dust and with steep sides. This area would be treacherous in the wet. Though today, if I was younger and my balance better (and I had someone with me),  I'd probably attempt to walk along there but then again that is why I have a very good zoom lens...

I don't have to do the hard (or scary) yards, I just zoom in on the point. And then spot that Motuekaiti Island had some large Phoenix Palms and Norfolk Pines (both non-natives) growing near a sheltered bay.

I would say that there was once a colonial homestead/holiday home in this quite sheltered bay and the palms were planted in the gardens.

I had lunch back at the seat and then headed for home, passing the only two people I saw on the track (other than the guy disappearing over the top earlier).

The following photos may look similar to some of the earlier ones but I'm now shooting with my wide angle lens so the views are even more spectacular as they take in a much wider vista, they are also a slightly different colour due to the lens I'm using and the tone is shoots. 

And finally back overlooking the camp and sheltered waters of Mahinepua Bay. It was a fabulous walk and well worth doing if you are able to, if not than you've walked it vicariously with me! 

Magical Mahinepua Bay, Northland

Catch-up

Beautiful tiny Mahinepua Bay was our next stop, just a short 10kms north of Matauri Bay. Usually we would have driven quite a bit further to find our next camp but I have had this one marked in my 'must stay' folder for a very long time....and now some of you will also have it marked down as it's not actively advertised as available. 

Mahinepua is reached by taking a short gravel road off Wainui Road, the scenic coastal route off SH10 on the south side of the Whangaroa Harbour. At the centre of the bay is a public reserve with a sandy beach and clear shallow waters which are safe for swimming. 

Across the road from the reserve is a pretty flash holiday home which looks a little out-of-place in this sleepy backwater. The house is regularly rented out for weddings and other special occasions. At the north end of the bay there are several original baches including these two that have seen better days.

At the southern end of the beach on a narrow sandspit bordered by emerald green waters and with an urupa (Maori cemetery) at it's entrance, is another small reserve which is under the protection of the local kaitiaki (guardians). 

Camping is sometimes available here (CSC vehicles only- there is no water and just one long drop toilet available) but permission must be sought first from the caretaker (Wiki), a sign board at the entrance gate has the contact information and a koha (donation) is accepted as payment. 

For this you will be well rewarded with a fabulous site just a few steps from the sea on one side...

...and the calm waters of Waipareira Stream on the other.

At the end of the spit there's a picnic table & a couple of lovely deep swimming holes which were put to good use by locals at the end of the day and over the weekend. 

Other than a family in their tent, we had the camp to ourselves the first evening and then shared it with a couple of motorhomes over the next couple of nights. Wiki had warned us though that there were a large group of whanau coming in for the weekend (whanau- an extended family or community of related families). 

Fire in the sky! Of course a new camp wouldn't be complete without a sunset shot or two... 

Several boats came into anchor overnight in the calm waters of the bay.

After seeing vehicle lights and hearing excited people arriving long after dark, it was still a bit of a shock Saturday morning pulling up the kitchen blind to find the camp busy and cars parked behind us.

Friday calm... (click on the photos to enlarge) 

To Saturday chaos (happy chaos of course). Many of the families had driven up from Auckland Friday evening, a 300km trip.

One of the things we love about living on the road are the unexpected experiences that come our way, sometimes right out of left field. Then there are the lovely people we meet along the way too.  On this occasion we had a chance to combine both of them. One morning a guy in a ute pulled up alongside the van, we thought he was just having a look until David stuck his head outside. The conversation went something like this-

The Guy- "You look like good people, would you like to come for a coffee?"
David- "Ummm....that's nice of you, sure. When?"
The Guy- "I'll come and collect you tomorrow morning about 11am"
David- "Oh, Ok, see you then'
And off the guy drives.

Me when David steps back inside- "What? Who the heck is he and where the heck are we going for coffee? What do you mean you don't know!? Did you get his name? "
David- "Arrr.....no...."

So for the rest of the day (and some of the night) we puzzled over the encounter. Perhaps we should have something on tomorrow but we didn't have a contact number or name to call to say thanks, but no thanks. What if he had evil intent, if he whisked us away and we didn't return no one would know where we'd gone. Don't be silly we said, he has a kind face.

So the next morning right on the dot our man turned up in a ATV to collect us. We climbed in beside him and he roared off down the track, through the gate and back up the road a couple of hundred metres, us holding on for dear life as he cut the corner off by taking a stock track around a bend. And then we turned off the road, passed through another gate and wound our way around the edge of a swamp and then up a very steep driveway.

And that was how we found ourselves having morning tea with fellow RVers Bernard & Marion, overlooking this amazing seascape from the clifftops above East Bay.

Bernard & Marion once lived in their bus (quite awhile ago), they have been house sitting and maintaining this beautiful property for over 3 years. 

Bernard loves the job and the isolation (he gets his people fix by picking up strays at the local campground) but I get the feeling that Marion has a serious case of itchy feet and is keen to get back on the road, sooner rather than later.

As it turns out the couple's son & daughter-in-law have a fifth-wheeler and had been staying at Matauri Bay when we were there, David spoke to the son briefly on one occasion when he was hauling in his kayak. We never found out whether that was where the connection came from but Bernard did know I was a photographer so somebody had been talking. We had a lovely time and Bernard deposited us safely back to the van afterwards. No need to call in the search party.

I loved these Cape Cod chairs, they made the perfect subject (and now one of my favourite photos)

Another campground we had on our radar was a little further up the road so we went for a tiki-tour in the ute to check it out. Tauranga Bay Holiday Park is a very popular place with the motorhoming community, many winter over here each year and others, including David's sister & her husband holiday here year after year. 

 A section of the camp is long and narrow and many of the sites sit on the edge of the sand dunes overlooking the ocean beach. Surfcasting is a popular pastime.

Although I think this guy had other ideas on what to do with his time...

There's a large public reserve and wide estuary for swimming & kayaking on, at the opposite end of the camp.

The last time we passed Tauranga Bay was in our launch, we were heading to Whangaroa Harbour;  the entrance is just up the coast from the beach, between the two headlands centre right. In the end we both decided that we didn't need to come and stay now that we had visited, David wouldn't be able to launch the dinghy from the beach and it was too far to travel to get it down to the estuary. 

On our way home we stopped at a high point in the road. The 270 degree views were spectacular, here I have zoomed in on Mahinepua Bay, where you can see the aqua blue of the shallower and calmer water.

Further around to the south are the Cavalli Islands, and the finger of land that protects Matauri Bay.

I knew that we wouldn't tow the 5th-wheeler into Whangaroa on a tiki-tour when we left Mahinepua (very tight dead end road) so later in our stay I did a round trip to check in on the tiny settlement. Just for old times sake. Whangaroa was where we came for supplies when we were staying further down the harbour on the boat. Back then it was the height of summer and a very different place to the deserted village I explored on a dismal and overcast day.

This is one of reasons we wouldn't have made it to the end of the road; a very low hanging pohutukawa just past the hotel & marina.

On the way home I was also able to stop and shoot an old shack I'd seen near the road when we'd passed by earlier in the week. I wonder at the stories this little building could tell.

Back at Mahinepua I watched one of the local Oystercatcher pair have a good bath in the shallows near the van. They had a nest nearby and it looked like this one had just been relived of nest sitting duties...

...he (or she) sure was pleased to have a wash down, jumping, flapping and dancing about in the breakers.

And one final photo from just after sunset, the pink hue that appears over the sky in the opposite direction, it pays to look behind sometimes!

And if you'd like to know the contact number for Wiki, please send me a message; either here on the contact form or via a PM on Facebook and I'll send you the number..... and an invoice for $100 (just kidding!) Be aware though, that depending on when you intend to visit, Wiki may no longer be the caretaker.

Coming up next... Take a walk with me