Beach Hop South- Deliverance Cove Walk

Catch-up- until this morning we were still relaxing and enjoying good company at Mapua. But after 11 nights our itchy feet returned (and our tanks were full), so it was time to head back 'Out There'. We are now in Murchison for the night and tomorrow we will decide  where the road will take us. And that will depend on what the long range forecast throws at us; east or west, what will it be?

Here's one last blog from Castlepoint before I move onto Ngawi in the Beach Hop series.

After a rough few days of weather, our last day at Castlepoint dawned sunny and clear. Which was just as well as there was one more walk we wanted to do before we left; the rim walk around Deliverance Cove.

The walk starts at the Lighthouse carpark which is also where you're allowed to freedom camp. 

There's a gentle climb up through the pine forest and out onto the exposed ridge where finally, we can see the entrance into the lagoon. 

Smaller boats launch at the top of the lagoon and leave through here to go fishing. From the beach it looks like the rocky reef separating the ocean from the calmer lagoon waters joins Castle Rock. From up here it's actually quite wide.

The entrance also provides a reasonable surf break in the right conditions. You can see the track stairway coming down the side of Castle Rock in this photo too, that's where we're headed.

The views are jaw-droppingly spectacular. In the photos, it doesn't look that high but check out the size of the people down there on the water's edge to get some perspective.

Here's a pano for maximum effect!

Further around the track and the lighthouse comes into view at the far end of the reef. This photo might look familiar, it appeared on the TV1's weather. 

The track runs along a narrow ridge just before it reaches Castle Rock. 

And from here the views down both sides of the headland are breath-taking. This is looking south over Christmas Bay.

If you look closely in the photo above you can see a small dot on the sand in the bottom corner of the bay, it's a seal. Which is unusual for seals as they normally hang out in amongst rocks. Sealions prefer sand, seals prefer rocks. I zoomed in on it and found half a dozen more lolling about near the rocks.

A wild and remote part of the Wairarapa coastline...

...and in the other direction, I zoom in on the lighthouse.

Once the track meets Castle Rock it heads down to the beach through a series of steps and stairways. There is a rough 'unofficial' track up the side of Castle Rock, you can see it just in front of David, once it reaches the cliff edge it climbs straight up to the top of the Rock.

I imagine climbing to the top of Castle Rock is a ritual for many regular holidaymakers to Castlepoint. Just like us, as teens, we used to climb to the top of Mokotahi at least once every summer holiday at Mahia (Northern Hawkes Bay). I was so tempted to climb to the top of Castle Rock but I had a niggly knee, so I decided to take the safer option and follow David down the stairway.

Near the bottom I spied something bobbing about in the surf. Seaweed I think. Until the wave flattens out to reveal a seal in its happy place.

Once at the bottom, I find a number of seals in amongst the rocks. This guy is not too certain what I'm up to but he's keeping one wary eye on me and the other on his escape route. I leave him in peace.

I take one last photo looking back up Castle Rock...

...and run to catch David up. The firm sand below the tide line makes it an easy walk back around the lagoon.

It is with some surprise when we see a flash black car heading towards us along the lagoon edge. The driver does a sudden turn up towards the sand...

..and comes to a grinding halt. Oh dear....what the hell is he doing out here in a car like that?

'Houston we have a problem' He's stuck fast and the tide is also on its way in. Fast. And there's just the three of us and not another soul in sight. The driver tells us he wanted to take some photos of his car in front of Castle Rock. I tell him I'll take the photos for him, I'm not so sure he wants my ones though. We try to push him out, with no luck. 

He starts to panic when we tell him the tide will be lapping at his back wheels very soon. He races up to the dunes looking for rocks and driftwood to lay behind his back wheels, and comes back with one small rock and some dried seaweed. David starts digging out behind the wheels and opens the boot to find the car's carpet mats have been placed in there for safekeeping. For a moment the driver is reluctant to use them, but the next incoming wave confirms he hasn't much time.

I spot a couple of guys up on the dunes and wave frantically for them to come and help. After much digging then putting his floor mats underneath the back wheels, letting his tyres down a little and with guy at the wheel, we manage to push him out. His back wheels hit the water as he comes free. He was so grateful, he got out and gave us all a hug. 

You would have thought he'd have picked up that the sand was soft on his way down the beach, those are his tracks on the right, and his return tracks on the left. He won't be doing that again in hurry.

We head home along the beach and I take one more photo of the lighthouse. You can never have enough lighthouse photos. Right? 

And that was Castlepoint, a charming seaside village we both enjoyed very much and a place we would return to. 

Next up, Ngawi (pronounced "naa-wee"), a small fishing settlement near Cape Palliser, the southernmost point of the North Island.

Beach Hop South- Lighthouse Walk, Castlepoint

Catch-up

I did ask you how many photos one can take of a lighthouse, didn't I? Well here's good selection of them for you. The weather forecast wasn't great so I was keen to do the lighthouse walk before it closed in. David was more keen to wash the dust, salt spray and road film off the vehicles so I headed off on my own, leaving him to his chores.

I love a beach like Castlepoint; when it's low tide (this is about half tide), there's a lovely wide sandy beach to walk along...

...and when it's high tide, the waves are crashing against the retaining boulders...

...in both directions

...and they come halfway up the access stairways.

At the end of the beach there's a wide sand bar that joins the mainland to the limestone reef that the lighthouse stands on. And although the sand is wet, the tide never comes right up to the boats.

Looking like something out of a Mad Max movie, the commercial crayfishing boats are stored on the sand awaiting the next outing to retrieve their cray pots.

These are monster boats and classic Kiwi 'number 8 wire' ingenuity has been applied to the tow contraptions that haul them in and out of the water. 

We spoke to the owner of the boat below on another day (this unit looks like an old combine-harvester), and he told us about his business. It was hard work but lucrative when they could get out to check the pots. But more often than not, they weren't able to fish because of rough seas.

I kept missing the boats as they arrived back at base and were hauled out of the water; he told me he radioed ahead to his brother-in-law who then raced down to the tractor unit and backed it in and out. Which was obviously before I'd even thought about leaving the van and striding along the beach. I did manage to zoom in from the comfort of the van a couple of times though.

The baby of the group had a standard tractor.

I had Castlepoint to myself as I made my way across the sand (those are my footprints and this was taken on my way back!)...  

...towards the pathway up to the lighthouse. And although the tide might not cross the sandbar and join with the lagoon, there are signs warning to watch the tide, it does reach quite high and also if the sea is rough the waves can cut off the access at the bottom of the path.

It's very easy going up the path but there are a number of seats to rest at for the less agile. 

The view behind me is spectacular; that's Castle Rock at the back. Captain Cook named it for obviously reasons....well, obvious to him. Apparently it has similarities to the battlements of a castle. From the sea.

A panoramic shot of Castlepoint, this is 4 shots stitched together. 

This is a lovely lighthouse (I'm collecting lighthouses too)- its first light shone in January 1913. It was built to allow ships to make landfall on their voyage from Panama to Wellington and was one of the last attended stations to be built in New Zealand.

There's a worrying lack of barriers on the cliff edges around the lighthouse. I think I'd be firmly holding the hands of any children if they were with me. I spy half a dozen seals lounging around on the rocks far below.

Once past the lighthouse, a narrow stairway climbs to a point above.

I stop at every landing on the way up, not only to catch my breath- there's a brisk cold wind blowing- but to soak in that view behind. 

I still have the place to myself, and in fact I don't see another person on my travels. New Zealand like it used to be.

Castlepoint village; there's quite a number of homes on the hill behind the beach. Private & with stunning views, these can't be seen from the beachfront road below.

The stairway ends on a large platform that stretches along the top of the point and thankfully it's surrounded by a study fence. It also has magnificent 360 degree views.

I zoom in on the camping ground, and what do you know? I can just pick out David cleaning the van! So he's not telling fibs just to get out of a walk!

The cast iron lighthouse stands 23 metres high and is 52 metres above sea level. The light flashes 3 times every 30 seconds and can be seen for 26 nautical miles (48kms).

Another stairway leads you off the far end of the platform and down steep stairs to a huge rock platform on the ocean side of the point.  

Woah! This is scary stuff, it's a hundred foot drop over the edge into churning ocean below. There's a few metal screw eyes in the rocks; perhaps there used to be a wire barrier here or maybe someone uses them to anchor their rope when they go over the edge.

I'm thinking if I slipped and disappeared over the side, nobody would know. I'd be gone forever, no more photos, no more blogs. After David, I'm sure the next person to notice I was missing would be one of you! I just can't bring myself to look right the way over.

I carry on along the rocky platform and back towards the lighthouse, happy to have some dirt and vegetation separating me from that drop.

The lighthouse was fully automated in 1988 and the lighthouse keeper withdrawn. It is monitored by computer and Maritime NZ staff in Wellington.

I made my way back down to the sand bar...

...and around towards the sheltered lagoon...

...with the adventure movie name of Deliverance Cove; one of Captain Cook's better name choices. The tide lines indicate how far the lagoon reaches up the firm sand.

There's a large opening into the lagoon right below Castle Rock and also as the tide rises, waves break over two low rock barriers, filling the lagoon. 

I decide I'll wait for David to join me before exploring Deliverance Cove and Castle Rock. I make my way to the top of the large sand dunes behind me and find myself in the carpark- this is the carpark where you're allowed to freedom camp, and I can certainly see why you're likely to get sandblasted parking here. And look, there's a church for me to photograph.

A day or two later, David joined me for a repeat circuit (I did warn you there are plenty of photos, didn't I?) It's the weekend and there are a lot more people about. 

Boaties launch their boats into the safety of the lagoon before heading out to the open ocean through the entrance below Castle Rock. Other fishermen have scrambled up onto the rocky ridge that separates the lagoon from the sea. It's another terrifying drop down into the ocean swell on the other side, there are warning signs on the approach which are obviously ignored.- the fishing must be good.

A surfer makes his way along Deliverance Cove, past more vehicles and trailers awaiting the return of their boats...or high tide, whichever comes first. 'The Gap' a popular surfing break inside the sheltered waters of the lagoon, is flanked by Castle Rock and the imposing limestone reef that forms the east side of the lagoon.

As we make our way across the sandbar to the base of the lighthouse track, a scooter posse roars past us, heading down towards Castle Rock. It's not only a surprise to see them on the sand, but its also a long way to ride out from Masterton. They came prepared though, one has a spare tank of petrol strapped to his carrier.

I think I prefer the place to myself; I can't help feeling anxious when I see the places people venture.  

The view is still spectacular, and today the tide is further in.

I want to show David the drop into the sea at the bottom of the stairs but when he gets close, I can't stand it and beg him to move away. And stop fooling about, which he's now doing when he sees how agitated I am.

I think my fear is borne from once getting stuck on a cliff edge high above a boiling swirling white water cauldron of rough water at Mahia when I was a teenager. I'd followed my brother up a goat track without realising actually how steep the walls of the cove were. I was paralyzed with fear and can't remember how we got down in the end but the worse case scenario kept playing through my head for weeks afterwards.

It didn't help my case when the yound couple I'd seen earlier, suddenly appeared  below me as I was photographing the fishermen on the other point.

At least there was a ledge below the top edge along this part of the platform, I felt fine walking along along there.

 But I get vertigo just looking at this photo!

And for those that commented on not seeing my little stick man over winter; he makes a special appearance here, just for you. He was missing over winter because we were parked up with family much of the time and not out on cold walks in inclement weather.

As we were making our way back down the path, I spotted the young couple again. This time they were clambering up the rocks at the other end of point. I'm sure he was out to impress his girlfriend. He'd told me (when I took a photo for them earlier), that he was revisiting his childhood holiday destination and showing his friend the sights.

Back on the sand, I was lining up a reflection shot of the lighthouse in the tide when this girl came prancing through, photobombing my shot and disturbing the still water. No matter it wasn't a good reflection anyway and she wouldn't have realised. She only had eyes for the... 

...huge sand dune below the rock wall and her siblings playing on it. And there's another crazy couple stretching the boundaries. I need to move along before I really do have kittens.

The weather is closing in fast and this will be the last calm (and clear) view for a few days.

To be continued...yes, there's more! Can you tell we loved Castlepoint.