A Stunning Walk in the Mountains- Part 2

Catch-up

Continuing on from Part 1

I waved goodbye to David as he left the hut and headed back down the track we'd arrived on, I headed off in the opposite direction, passing the family with the tiny baby arriving back in camp after they'd walked to the summit of Mt Arthur- well not quite to the summit, they said there was too much snow but they'd gone a fair way. Another three trampers arrived just after them, fully laden down with heavy packs; they'd just completed the 28km two day Tableland Circuit and had stayed at the Salisbury Hut the night before. The look of surprise on their faces when they saw all the people at Mt Arthur was priceless. I bet they decided to carry on to the carpark.

Once through the bush that surrounded the hut the track opened up; the mountain rising up on one side and on the other, this stunning view over the bush and the mountain range across to Tasman Bay in the distance.

As I was admiring the view another couple of walkers passed me heading for the hut. Going by the size of their packs they'd be daywalkers, which is just as well as there's no room at the inn tonight. They told me they'd walked about halfway to the summit and had then run out of time so turned back- very sensible tourists.

Shortly afterwards the track split- my track heading off to the right and the summit and another track to the left. As I was taking photos, one of the couples we'd been chatting to at the hut, along with their 4yo daughter, caught me up. The guy had been up here often and talked me into walking up the Summit track a little way because he said, 'the views were spectacular'.

The little girl sat down at the sign and refused to budge, she said was going to wait there until they returned. Eventually she was cajoled and bribed with chocolate into walking further but she 'was only going to the first pole and then she was going back to play with her new friend'. 

The views were indeed spectacular, I'm now clear of the lower mountains and can see all the way to Nelson and Rabbit Island. Mt Arthur Hut is below the point, in the trees.

A little further on and there's a rocky platform overlooking the valley behind.

The track climbed steadily up the exposed rock behind and then dropped a little before it becomes a long steady walk across fairly easy terrain before a short climb to the summit (so the husband tells me). I'm tempted to walk to the top of this rock to see Mt Arthur but decide against it as I'm unsure how my track will be and with no communications, David will start to wonder where I am if I add another 40 minutes or so to my return walk. Another couple appear over the top....now the track is getting like Piccadilly Station!

I'm told by the very helpful husband that my track crosses through those brown patches up to the peak and then drops sharply to the valley floor on the other side.

One hour, 2.6km, mostly downhill. Not far at all, this should be easy.

Immediately after leaving the sign-post the track disappears into a stand of bush. After the lovely manicured track up to the hut, this one is the exact opposite; narrow, root ridden with lots of holes. I'll have to watch my step.

Once out of this first lot of bush, the track gets lost under the snow tussock and when I find sections of it, it's deeply furrowed, uneven and full of water. I have to jump back and forth over the deep track and the water, squelching through spongy bog plants when the tussock disappears. I start to worry that it'll be like this all the way and it'll be slow going. I can see the orange marker poles marching up the ridge ahead of me, I keep one eye on them and the other one on where to next put my feet, and hope for the best.

This cutest little fluff-ball of a Tomtit/Miromiro(male) flitted into say hello to me as I was passing a clump of bush. Either he was cold (the temperature was dropping) or he wanted me out of his territory.

I stop often to look back along the track, the rocky platform I stood on at the beginning is at the base of the exposed rock to the right. I've now crossed a couple of those 'brown patches', the track is still a bog and there's water everywhere. I think it is actually a bog, the water seeping through from the ridge heading downhill.

Then it's back into the next lot of gnarly moss covered bush...

And a little further along, into the open again where I can't stop looking back at the view and the beautiful colours of the vegetation which is especially colourful for New Zealand native bush. Not only are there the purple leaved Mountain Neinei (Dracophyllum traversii) we saw earlier but there's also their smaller cousin the Dracophyllum Longifolium aka Grass tree or Inaka; the copper coloured upright shrubs in the foreground.

Just before I stopped to take photos I spotted a walker heading towards me from out of the bush. She stopped to ask how far it was to the hut, she told me she was going to stop overnight before heading to the summit. I hadn't the heart to tell her that the hut was full.

I pointed out that it wasn't too far, and while explaining where it lay in the bush ahead of her I spotted the hut's roof peeking out of the forest (see blue arrow above, click to enlarge the photo). I zoomed in for a better look below.

Once last panoramic photo of the amazing view before I turned around...

And headed over my 'summit', through one last clearing...

...and down into the bush proper. The track was wet and muddy, full of tree roots and holes with a number of rocks to navigate over and slide down. And even though it doesn't look like it in the photos below, it was a very steep downhill track (actually called a route because it just has tree markers pointing the way), it took a lot of effort to not let my forward momentum get ahead of me and topple me over.

My toes and knees started complaining very early on and after taking these few photos near the top I put my camera away so I could keep my balance better and hold onto trees to swing down banks or slide down muddy patches. It would have been very easy to trip on a root, or twist an ankle on a slippery section, I really needed to concentrate.  It seemed like the track went on and on forever, it got darker and colder and I begun to wonder whether I'd ever get to the end. I kept thinking about the woman I'd seen up on the top, she'd come up this way with her pack, that would have been hard going.

Eventually I could hear voices and children calling to each other but it still took a long while before I finally broke out of the bush above Flora Hut. Two more families with children (and a pushchair) had just arrived at the hut. Sitting on a bank in front of me were another young couple sharing a beer and chatting. 

I wondered how on earth I was going to get down this steep slippery slope because I not only knew my toes would scream blue murder, but I'd likely slip over and slide down on my butt past the now smooching couple who hadn't yet seen me. So I coughed loudly (that startled them) and then stopped to chat for a minute before spying another track through the bush to the side that looked to be heading towards the 4WD track and the way back to carpark. It did end up on the track and it was with great relief when I finally stepped out onto the gravel track. 

I still had 2kms to walk to get back to the carpark but it felt like I was walking on a cushion of air, the 4WD track was such a relief after the continuous pain of my toes being pushed into the front of my boots (even with thick socks) and my knees complaining at every jarring step. In the end it took me 1hr 40min from the start of the track to Flora Hut, I think 20 of those minutes would have been spent taking photos across the ridge but it was a tougher walk than I expected.

David met me half way along the track, he'd been back to the carpark, had a coffee and a snack and then come to meet me. He'd past another three groups of walkers heading to Mt Arthur Hut on his way down. It sure was going to be a busy night up there.

A Stunning Walk in the Mountains- Part 1

Catch-up

We had another walk we wanted to do while we were staying at Kaiteriteri, it's one we missed on our last visit even though we had visited the area twice.

As the sign says, it's 7kms of steep, winding and narrow road straight up the side of the Arthur Mountain Range to the Flora Carpark and into the Kahurangi National Park. Mt Arthur is the prominent peak in the range that forms a backdrop to the Motueka/Tasman area.

Back in 2014 when we visited the Park we walked to Flora Hut and then we came back a few days later to do the walk to the Mt Arthur Hut as we'd heard it was a stunning half day walk and we'd already seen how much bird life there was. Unfortunately it had snowed and we only just made it to the carpark before turning around and heading back down.

This time the weather was good and we allowed enough time to get to Mt Arthur Hut, a 8.4km return walk from the carpark where the old stone and cedar shelter above marks the entrance. After our marathon 17kms walk to Lake Daniells the other week, we weren't keen to take on a tramp to the summit of Mt Arthur; a 18.2km return walk from the carpark and a steep climb, once past Mt Arthur Hut. 

There are numerous single and multi-day tramping tracks throughout Kahurangi National Park and several start (or end) at the carpark.

We follow the 4WD track to a junction 600metres from the carpark, the Flora Hut walk heads off to the right, our track to the left. The bush we pass through at the beginning of our track is nothing short of spectacular, and while I'm waiting for David to finish a bit of bird spotting, I take a little bit of artistic license with my camera and shoot some creative blur photos.

These two photos (above and below) are of the same piece of bush. To achieve creative blur in your photos slow the shutter speed down (these are 1/50sec) and then as you push your shutter button, quickly move your camera up and down. Play with settings until you get the desired effect, it's fun to see what you can produce. I enjoy doing this with colourful flower beds too.

Here's a couple more taken in bush similar to the top photo, I like the effect a little bit of sunlight has had on the green moss on the forest floor. Cool aren't they? 

Anyway, back to the task at hand, the track is well formed and it's a steady, easy climb upwards.

There's a major change to the vegetation and bush as we break out onto a ridge. I've only ever seen these unusual trees in suburban gardens (including my sister and parents) I've never seen these plants in the bush before but they are the native Dracophyllum traversii, aka Mountain Neinei.  

A gorgeous little Grey Warbler/Riroriro was checking us out as we detoured off the path into his moss laden 'enchanted forest'.

Back on the path and we reach a clearing where Mt Arthur can be seen ahead of us. There's also a picnic table to the left and we decide to stop for a snack. As David's heading to the table he suddenly calls back to me 'Listen, listen.....there's something in the bush and it's heading our way.....it's wild pigs!!" he says, as really loud snorting, grunting and rustling noises reach me. I'm about ready to run and jump on the table when...

...out of the bush bursts one small Weka in full flight (they are flightless) followed by another weka twice the size! He has evil intent on his mind and he chases her around and around a tree trunk, then  across the clearing, round the table, back around another tree and then back across again, all the time emitting this really loud grunting noise. Both of them take no notice of the two shocked spectators as they disappear back into the bush. (Excuse the blurred photos, I wasn't expecting quite so much action to happen in the quiet bush)

We sat down for a snack and it wasn't long before they both emerged to see if we had anything they might steal. And looking at the state of her, I think he must have finally caught up with her.

We move off the ridge and back into the Mountain Beech forest where the tallest canopy trees are hundreds of years old and have obviously escaped the early settlers logging operations. Through a gap in the trees we can see some of Tasman Bay, Rabbit Island and the Richmond Range behind Nelson.

We must be getting close to the hut; the track has many switchbacks and we're now climbing steadily. back, forward, back, forward. We start to wonder if we'll ever get there.

Around a corner ahead of me I find a mother and her young son (about 3yo) sitting in the middle of the track checking out something in the dust. I have the feeling he had refused to go any further. His father suddenly appears from ahead of us, he's carried on to the hut with some of their gear and has come back to hoist the boy onto his shoulders. They carry on up the track while I wait for David to catch up.

Finally we reach the hut and what a surprise awaits us! It's like Piccadilly Station, there are four different groups of people including three groups with children, all under five, one of them just a baby of about 3 months old. There's even a small child's balance bike and a pushchair with a flat tyre- 'Have we got a bike pump?", they ask. As if! 

This is an 8 bunk hut and I have the feeling it's well and truly oversubscribed tonight! All I can say is thank God we're not stopping. It is lovely to see families enjoying the great outdoors and introducing their children to tramping and huts at such an early age though. 

We have our lunch and a few laughs at the picnic table before deciding it's time head back to the carpark. David's decided he's going to return the way we came, I've decided to do the loop and head down another track to the Flora Hut and then back up to the carpark, it shouldn't be too hard it's only 1/2km longer. Famous last words...

To be continued...Part 2

The Birds of Ohau Canal

OK, back to the backlog of blogs. I hope you can keep up with all this toing and froing, it’s a little difficult when I’ve been talking about the same place- before the snow and after, and  just a couple of weeks apart. Anyway this is the last blog post from the MacKenzie Basin…….that is until I process the remainder of the snow photos.

While David fished I was able to take my time exploring the canal, the hillock behind and the surrounding lakes looking for birds to photograph.

On the very first afternoon I couldn’t believe my luck, when I walked to the beginning of the canal where it leaves Lake Ruataniwha and there, right in front of the rocks and below me, was an adult Australasian Crested Grebe/Kamana. I’m not sure who got the biggest fright, it took off fast towards the centre of the lake but I managed to get a shot before it dived and disappeared. Those that have been following the blog will know that I’ve been trying for quite some time to get close up photos of the incredibly shy grebe. Still not perfect but getting closer….

Along the canal, around the salmon farm and in the small lake behind the farm which is called the Wairepo Arm, there were the usual mix of hybrid mallards and grey ducks and a handful of Australian Coots (I love that name- I’m not sure if it’s the coot part or the fact that it has Australian in front of it).

Australian coots are slate-grey with a white bill and frontal shield, and red eyes. They also have large grey feet with lobed toes which help with swimming and diving as they spend nearly all their time in the water. Coots are a member of the same rail family that our native Pukeko & Takahe belong to, they arrived in NZ from Australia around 1958.

This is a male New Zealand Scaup (aka ‘Angry Duck’). NZ Scaup/Papango are also known as Black Teal- so many names for a little duck! Scaup are small diving ducks, they are sociable birds and can be found in large flocks bobbing about on many lakes.

Males are dark black-brown with an iridescent blue-green head and yellow eyes. The females are a duller chocolate brown with white feathers at the base of the bill and brown eyes.

I was pleased to locate half a dozen grebes scattered about in various places while I was exploring the canal,and ponds. They all kept their distance but at least I knew I had a chance of a close up shot if I managed to creep up on one. Every day I’d watch one grebe swim very fast down the canal past our van but out in the centre of the flow- I’d watch him out our window- but every time I stepped outside he shot off over to the far bank where he’d spend most of the afternoon poking about in the amongst the grass overhanging the water. Then he’d swim back past in the late afternoon, hugging the far bank and the edge of the salmon farm, heading back to the lake. I managed to get a slightly closer shot but still not a great one.

Surprisingly enough, aside from the waterfowl, there were quite a number of smaller birds feeding in the grasses along the canal banks and up on the hillock behind us; goldfinches, chaffinches, green finches, sparrows, dunnocks, NZ pipits, yellowhammers, blackbirds, thrush and silvereyes. A wild apple tree growing on top of the small hill provided plenty of food for the silvereyes and blackbirds which was just as well when the heavy frosts coated the ground for most of the day.

The Silvereye/Tauhou were a little cautious and tended to stick to the half eaten apples on the inside or on the far side of the tree. They also spend more time chasing each other than feeding as they are quite territorial. I always wonder why, when there’s plenty of food, they don’t just tolerate each other and get on with eating instead of wasting energy and time. In the end I decided that I had waited long enough in the cool wind to get a good shot so  I took matters in hand and took a bite from an apple myself (in situ), so I could get some shots on the sunny side   They were tasty enough but with a hard skin. All in the name of a good shot of course! And no that’s not what you think on the apple, it’s frost.

This Dunnock (aka Hedge Sparrow) all fluffed up against the cold, was resting near the van and warming up in the weak morning sun.

A New Zealand Pipit/Pihoihoi foraged for seed and insects along the canal bank every day including  the morning after our first snow fall. Pipits resemble skylarks but they have longer legs and walk rather than hop like the lark. Being a member of the wagtail family, pipits flick their tail as they walk, they are also less likely to fly when approached.

Late one afternoon I was looking out the window when I caught sight of a Grebe further down the canal and on our side. I quickly grabbed my camera and ran along the track out of sight of the canal edge until I thought I was about opposite where I’d seen him. I crept up to the edge and there he(or she) was! But it was only a juvenile.

I shouldn’t say ‘only’ because it was still thrilling to see him but I was after an adult. I already have a juvenile photo that I took last year when we visited the lake front in Queenstown.

Grebes have very strange legs, they look like they’re hinged onto their butts. Grebes spend all of their time in the water, only coming out to nest on floating rafts of vegetation that they build. Their strong legs are set way back on their bodies to help with diving.

Juveniles are a lot more confiding than the adults and more inquisitive. This fellow initially got a fright to see me pop up but once he sussed out I was no threat he just went about his business. You can see the beginnings of his adult crest forming on his head here.

After this initial encounter I didn’t see him again, I think he was encroaching on a prime piece of real estate (salmon farm=food) and the adult may have chased him away.

The Grey Warbler/Riroriro is a tiny endemic songbird that usually stays up among the canopy foliage so it’s often heard but not seen. Unless there is no canopy. Scrubby briar bushes and the native spiny matagouri  both grow along the side of the ponds behind the salmon farm and this is where I found numerous warblers working the bushes from one end of the pond to the other, looking for insects.

The warbler with it’s distinctive red eye is the only New Zealand bird that hovers while searching for food, making them identifiable by behaviour from a long distance.

And finally I nailed it! A close up of the elusive adult Australasian Grebe. I spotted him (or her, male & female look the same) in close to the canal bank and working his way down towards the salmon farm way across the otherside. I grabbed my gear and headed quick as I could to the road and over the bridge keeping a careful eye on him feeding.

Every time he dove down to feed I’d break into a run, then pull up fast when he bobbed back up, creeping along low behind the bridge rail and then the bushes on the edge as I got closer. A couple of fishermen were casting off the bank nearby and quietly cursing the grebe for scaring away their fish. 

I managed to get a few close shots before the grebe decided I was too close and took off through the water, heading into the salmon farm. He obviously feeds under the nets too.

A few days later I found him floating about in amongst the salmon farm, it wasn’t long before he decided I was stalking him again and he was gone. I had to post this photo though, not because of the grebe but because of the drums that are being used as floats at the farm. These aren’t just any old drums, although old and faded they are. These are very special Devan Plastic drums, made in Tauranga at our old business. It’s amazing the weird and wonderful places we keep finding Devan products on our travels.