A Riot of Colour- Fields of Tulips, Southland

Catch-up (October 28, 2019)

From Cromwell we headed back to Southland to look after our Winton family's house and cat while they were away for a couple of weeks. I was very pleased to find out that our visit coincided with an event that has been on my bucket list for a very long time.

On just one day a year- Labour Day- Triflor NZ Ltd, an Edendale tulip bulb exporter opens up one of their large paddocks for the public to visit and view an amazing display of flowers. The flowers aren't for picking though, they will cut and mulched and the bulbs will then be harvested soon after the open day.

It's 54km from Winton to Edendale and as I wanted to be there when the gates opened at 10am, I was up and ready to go well ahead of time.  I zig-zagged my way across Southland and was delighted to find several paddocks of colourful tulips along the back roads, about 20 kilometres before Edendale. I was ahead of schedule and had time to stop and photograph them as well.

There was plenty of parking at Triflor headquarters but it was filling fast when I arrived just before 10am. The event is used a fundraiser for the Edendale Presbyterian Church, Edendale Scouts and Wyndham Lions Club; there was a small market in progress inside one of the sheds and a queue forming for the guided tours (gold coin donation). 

Several small passenger vans took visitors on a tiki-tour around the local area; along country roads and down farm tracks and past many of the tulip fields that can't be seen from the road. Dairy cows, looking a little out of place beside the mass plantings of vibrantly coloured tulips, watched curiously from the other side of fences as the procession of vehicles passed by.

Five companies lease or own 350ha in Southland, growing and exporting 175 million tulip bulbs every season. Trifor, the largest company, have 100ha and exports around 55 million bulbs each year. Several companies lease land from local dairy farmers or swap land use with them as the bulbs need to be grown on rotation every 7-8 years. 

About 80% of the bulbs are exported the United States and the rest to Holland, Norway, Finland and Russia. Southland has excellent soils, good rainfall and cool weather which are all required to grow high quality tulips bulbs. 

The bulbs are harvested during January & February and sent to the northern hemisphere where they are raised in hot houses and timed to bloom during the northern winter when flower prices are higher.

Visitors to the open day aren't allowed to pick the flowers and they also need to stay near the beginning of the rows so the bulbs aren't damaged.  When queried as to why the flowers weren't picked for sale to the flower industry in NZ or exported, the grower answered 'Who wants 170 million tulip blooms?' and "When did your partner last buy you a dozen tulips?' 

The rows of blooms are inspected for imperfections and odd colours and those bulbs removed before harvest.

Although some unusual ones may make the grade. The 'cauliflower' looking tulip in the centre of the mosaic below was one such bulb a few years ago. It's protege have been painstakingly cultivated each season and now there are several short rows of the plant. 

It wasn't a surprise to see that not many people were stopping to admire it though. The brilliant colours of all the others by far and away overshadowed the muted tones and odd shape of this quirk of nature.

It was hard to choose a favourite colour, they were all stunning but I loved the deep wine colour of these ones. I imagine that they would be a very popular colour for bridal bouquets.

How to stand out in a crowd.

And talking about crowds, dozens of people had arrived at the sheds by the time our tour van arrived back at the display paddock, the large carpark was full and many vehicles now lined the narrow country roads outside the farm. Over a 1000 people visited the farm this year, the largest crowd ever.

Inside the shed the queue for the tours snaked back and forward across the floor and a lot of visitors had opted to walk straight down to the tulip paddock. And in fact, as a photographer, I would do this next time. The tour was good but there were no photo opportunities and it was over an hour before we came back to the display. 

There was still plenty of room for me to take photos in amongst the visitors taking their ultimate selfies or photos of their children dressed in their Sunday best.

There are many migrant families working on dairy farms in Southland & Otago and I know that bright colours and beautiful flowers are a feature in their cultures. I'm sure many photos of treasured grandchildren were sent to families overseas that night.

A Riot of Colour

If you haven't already, click on a photo to enlarge it and then use your direction arrows to scroll back & forward through the photos, the colours are just spectacular (or perhaps it's just me, but I can't get enough of looking at this amazing sight).

Of course I photographed each and every row and from several different angles until I finally reached the far side of the field and when I turned to head back to the sheds, there was still a mass of people arriving.

Further to the south the weather looked to be about to take a turn for the worse and I wanted to check out a couple of the paddocks we'd seen on our tour earlier in the day. Our driver had pointed out side roads where there were tulips that could be seen from the road.

This sea of pink took my breath away, what a fabulous colour (and possibly my new favourite) and as you can see I couldn't get enough of them. Anyone want 50 photos of pink tulips?

But I lingered a little too long at the pink tulip parade and when I next looked up I could see the weather front was just about on top of me. There was one more field (actually two) that I wanted to see before I headed home, this one of white tulips when the rain started to fall...

...and one back near the main road where the heavens opened up and all hell broke loose. I managed to grab a few shots but not before getting a total drenching in the heavy downpour. 

Afterwards as I passed Triflors on my way home, dozens of people were still arriving, walking along the road in their finery and without umbrellas or wet weather gear. Others were struggling back to their cars, some parked over a kilometre away, looking like drowned rats. It was such a shame the day ended liked that but I was so pleased I arrived early.

Several days later I was back in the area and thought I'd look in on the tulip fields (as you do) that I hadn't had the time to check out when it was raining.

These reds and oranges were very vibrant, it was just a pity I could only stand at the side of the road to take photos. Given half the chance I'd have been in their amongst it again.

I also stopped at the Triflors display tulip field, this time at the other end to where we'd all been just days earlier. A dairy herd was slowly wandering back to their paddock after milking, along the track we'd been on the other day. Even though I knew what the outcome was going to be it was still quite sad to see that the de-heading machine had been through and most of rows of glorious coloured tulips had been unceremoniously chopped!

Petals & broken blooms lay in the furrows between the plants. It was such a sorry sight to see after such beauty but at least they had had their one day of glory.

Warding off Jack Frost- Cromwell

Catch-up (early October, 2019)

After I'd completed my mega road trip from Winton to Cromwell & Lawrence return, to photograph the fruit blossoms, a photography acquaintance mentioned that I should do the trip again, at least to Cromwell, to take photos of the blossoms after the frost protection sprinklers were switched on in the orchards. 

Sunrise over Cromwell

How do frost protection sprinklers work? Coating a tree or vine with ice to protect new buds & blossom from frost may seem counter-intuitive but there is a science behind it.

Overhead low pressure sprinkler systems provide a high level of protection, the key is to form clear ice on the plant. Sprinklers deliver just enough water to glaze the plants in layers of ice, rather than soaking them and forming one massive layer of ice that may cause more cooling before it freezes.

Clear ice means that an endothermic reaction is taking place and the warmth of the plant is being trapped inside it. If the ice starts to become cloudy, the plant is losing heat and that’s when damage can occur. Water spraying starts well before the frost forms and continues until after the ice has completely melted from the trees. If water stops spraying on the clear ice, it goes from being endothermic to exothermic, and the heat loss and ice can then damage the fruit.

Drive back to Cromwell? 'What a good idea', I thought, the seed was planted. It would mean a 4am start to cover the 200+km from Winton to Cromwell but I was up for the challenge. Like a hoar frost, iced blossoms had been on my 'must capture' list for awhile, I'd just never been in the right place at the right time. Now was my chance. 

My friend had access to a Cromwell orchard's temperature gauge and he informed me by text late one evening that there was a predicted frost the following morning and I should be ready to go.

It turned out to be a very light frost and the sprinklers weren't needed but thankfully he was able to text me before I had left Winton. The next time I heard from him was a week or so later but unfortunately we had left Winton and were exploring the Milford Road by then, so I missed out again.

But as luck would have it, and after our short visit to Mavora Lakes, we were unexpectedly back in Cromwell parked in the NZMCA Park at Lowburn when very early one morning, around 3am, I woke with start to a very loud noise filling the air.

Once I figured out where I was- you get that when you're constantly on the move, it's sometimes takes a few moments to visualise where you're parked and in what direction you're facing- I realised that I could hear wind turbines and helicopters roaring into action, preparing to fight off a frost. 

How about that! I had no need to drive 400km this time, I was a mere 4kms down the road from the orchards! I was ready to go and out the gate well before the sun came up. The first orchards were still in darkness but I could hear the soft click, clack of the sprinkler heads turning and the gentle patter of water falling through the trees to the ground.

I carried on to the far end of Cromwell and then around onto a back road; sprinklers swishing back & forward everywhere I looked, a helicopter down very low in one orchard, weaving back and forward along the ends of the rows and the roar of wind fans and turbines in others.

All three methods obviously work but I'm not too sure how the orchardists decide which is the best way to go; sprinkler systems seemed to be most numerous.

Perhaps it's money, helicopters would cost a fortune, maybe there isn't access to water or perhaps the wind turbines can be shifted around the orchard more easily.

I had overlooked one major difficulty which now seems rather obvious. I was soaking wet within minutes of getting out of the ute- even with a rain jacket & gumboots on.

It didn't matter that I was ducking in and out of the passing overhead sprinkler trying to shoot a blossom before the sprinkler passed over again because if the sprinkler next door didn't get me the neighbour on the other side would. They were all out of sequence. 

Luckily I had an extra jacket in the ute and there were a couple of large towels packed into the back seat. I used one to cover the seat as I was climbing in and out in my wet gear all the time and the other one to wipe down my camera and dry my hair! I looked like a drowned rat. 

I was a little worried about my camera though, it's weather proof but not water proof and also, as I was zooming my lens in and out, water was tracking inside the lens.

Later when I arrived home and had dried my camera and lens out as much as I could, I left them on the bed in the warm sun to dry them out. I opened the window a little so any water would evaporate rather than condensate in the warmth. It worked although it did take a few hours each day to get rid of the moisture. Next time I need a waterproof cover for my camera.

After flitting back and forward through town and up and down down many of the back roads chasing sprinklers and easy to access orchards, I stopped at the Wooing Tree Vineyard, right in the middle of town. The sprinklers were also working overtime here and...

...at River Rock Estate, a little boutique winery across the road...

...where I managed to do a few close up shots...

...without getting drenched as I could keep outside the sprinkler's reach. 

Then with the sun climbing higher, the ice melting and enough blossoms photos to sink a ship, I thought I might just add a few more before I headed home. 

I'd passed this row of beautiful old crab-apple trees numerous times during the last couple of hours, now I stopped to take some photos of the gorgeous blossom.

Never satisfied and always striving for better photos, I can't wait until the next frost event. If you're passing through Cromwell next spring and you spot someone with a camera, ducking & diving around the fruit trees on the edge of an orchard covered from head to toe in ocean going wet weather gear, you'll know who it is!