Showing posts with label tui. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tui. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 6

History & Heritage- Bay of Islands; Part 2

Catch-up

Continuing on from Part 1 (and in time for Waitangi Day)

I was keen to check out the Waitangi Treaty Grounds & Museum, a little less keen to pay $50 to do so but happy when they halved it for a 'NZ Resident'. In fact visiting the recently opened Museum of Waitangi (Feb, 2016) alone would have been well worth the full fee. It really is a masterpiece and done extremely well, allow at least an hour to walk through it or more if your are a history buff. Unfortunately I have no photos to show you, it's very dark inside and I was moving quite fast through the exhibits. 

From the museum is a short walk through native bush and up a gravel track to the Upper Treaty Grounds. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is where Maori chiefs first signed their accord with the British Crown- the Treaty of Waitangi- Te Tiri of Waitangi, New Zealand's founding document.


Te Whare Runanga (the House of Assembly) the magnificently carved meeting house at Waitangi stands facing the Treaty House, the two buildings together symbolising the partnership between Maori & the British Crown.


Carving for for the Meeting House began in 1934 and it was opened on 6 February, 1940, 100 years after the first signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.


The flagpole at 34 metres high, takes centre stage on a huge expanse of Flagstaff Lawn overlooking the calm waters of the Bay of Islands. Since 1974, three flags have usually been flown on it- the New Zealand flag, the Union flag, and the flag of the United Tribes of New Zealand which was chosen in 1834.


The story of New Zealand's flags explained (click the photo to enlarge)


A tour guide explains the in and outs of the Treaty (he's going to be there a long time!) 


The Treaty House was originally known as 'the Residency'. It is where James Busby conducted much of his official business as the British government's representative in New Zealand from 1833 to 1840. It was also home for James, his wife Agnes & their six children.



It's been interesting to see Sir Hekenukumai Busby formally receiving his knighthood at Waitangi yesterday, he has his own special connection to Waitangi. James Busby, the British government representative became godfather to Teripi Temaru, one of Sir Hekenukumai's ancestors, when Temaru converted to Christianity, gifting him the Busby surname.  


As I walked back down the track to the Lower Treaty Grounds and Hobson Beach, I stopped to photograph this beautiful tui feeding on the Flax/Hakakeke flowers. He/She was displaying the iridescent blue of it's feather to perfection.


The waka house near the beach shelters the iwi Ngapuhi's ceremonial war canoe, Ngatokimatawhaorua, the world's largest.


At 35 metres long, the canoe needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. It weighs 6 tonnes when dry & 12 tonnes when saturated. The waka was built as part of Ngapuhi's contribution to mark the centenary of the Treaty signing and was launched in 1940. It was then laid up for 34 years in a canoe shelter alongside the meeting house.


In 1974, the waka was renovated for the Queen's visit to Waitangi and a canoe shelter built to house it near the shore. After the Queen rode in the waka she designated it 'Her Majesty's Ship', which makes the waka part of her Royal Navy! The waka is launched every year on the 6 February as part of the Waitangi Day celebrations.



To be continued...Part 3

Thursday, October 4

An Open Sanctuary; Part 3- Tieke & Tiri

Real-time

Not only did I get to see the Banded Rail while we camped at Shakespear Park but I was also lucky enough to have a close encounter with not one, but two rare and endangered North Island Saddleback/Tieke. 


Tieke have only recently (May, 2018) been introduced to the park; 40 were relocated from Tiritiri Matangi Island, an island sanctuary just off the tip the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and across the water from Shakespear Park. Tieke spend alot of their time on the ground and nest in the cavities of trees which make them extremely vulnerable to introduced predators; they can only survive longterm on the mainland within a predator proof fence (although some do escape over the fence and set up home, their survival rate is not great).

I happened to be walking along an open track near the other camp when I thought I recognised a bird call a distance away. Tieke have a very distinctive sound and once you have heard them, you'll always recognise the call.


I hadn't known they were in the sanctuary so it was a thrill to check out the nearby bush and find two birds flitting about and calling to each other. In fact there was a third bird nearby and I suspect that was why there was a lot of  noise and they were out in the open. The male of the pair (I'm thinking that's him above) was challenging the other bird at every call, his mate (that's her in the first photo) was coming in to reassure him, often tapping bills and following him around.  


I was pleased to get some lovely photos of the birds, we've seen tieke on several predator free islands and other mainland sanctuaries but they are usually in the dark bush and moving fast as they forage along the ground and around fallen logs, this makes it very hard to get any decent photos.  

I love the contrast of the red wattles against the sleek black feathers in this shot. Tieke belong to the same family as the beautiful and endangered Kokako, with it's blue wattles (and haunting song) and the extinct Huia which had orange wattles.


We were very impressed with the bird life around Shakepear Park, it was fabulous to see so many species; endemic, native and introduced, going about their business without a worry of being chased or eaten. 

The small flocks of Brown Quail/Kuera kept us entertained; like fluffy bumble bees, they hurried through the short grass when they were disturbed or were flushed from bush.


Some of the more common birds I photograph were (from the top, clockwise); the Variable Oystercatcher/Torea Pango, Pukeko, Feral Pigeon, Eastern Rosella, Peahen and a Skylark.


With many of the park's Kowhai trees in full bloom, the Tui spent most of their day- in between sipping the nectar- protecting 'their' tree from other tui and the Bellbirds/Korimako.


There are several tracks and trails of varying lengths throughout the park, some are loops, others join up, most are through a mix of bush and open ground. One of the longer trails allows mountain bikes. 

I decided to walk up through Waterfall Gully on the Heritage Trail (3.9km loop) hoping to find a Bush Robin or two (these have also been introduced to Shakespear), and while I heard a few none came down to the path. I even tempted them by scratching around in the leaf litter, this is usually a sure fire way to attract them.


Once through the bush, it was steady climb to the Lookout, sitting near the centre of the Park and a meeting point for most of the trails. There had been a very light drizzle which was much appreciated  as I climbed to the lookout but luckily it cleared soon after I reached the top which was great as I wanted to see the views and walk the Tiri Track (4.8km) back to Te Haruhi Bay.


The views from the Lookout platform were spectacular; this is looking to the east, out over regenerating bush to Tiritiri Matangi Island. The island that the many of the birds here in Shakespear came from. Some have even made their own way here across the water. On the far right you can see one of the Fuller Ferries that take tours out to the island from Gulf Harbour and downtown Auckland.


Walkers head back down to Te Haruhi Bay via the Lookout Track (2.5km loop). Rangitoto Island spreads herself along the horizon with Waiheke Island disappearing to the left.


Shakespear Homestead (now a YMCA Lodge) overlooks Te Haruhi Bay, with the houses of Gulf Harbour behind. You can't see our rig in the bay, it's hidden in the trees to the left of the small pump shed, centre left (click to enlarge).


After a pit stop at the lookout I carried on along the top, heading towards the coast and Tiritiri Matangi. The north east corner of the tip of the peninsula is NZ Defence Force land and a barbed wire fence stops intruders. I'm sure birds can't read so there must be alot over there too, they're still protected by the predator fence which starts in Army Bay, at the entrance to the Defence Force land.


There's a alternate track that cuts the corner off the Tiri Track, it heads down into this gully through bush and then rejoins back up the top on the other side. I decide to stick to the open ground; I'm loving the views. I can see the track way over the far side making it's way to the top of the headland; still quite a way to walk. 


It seems that many of the walkers I'm passing up coming towards me but I'm pleased that I'm doing the walk clockwise, the climbs are a little more gentle. This may not seem a steep climb but it is and there's another steeper one over that rise.


I had been following this couple who came out ahead of me from the alternate track; that's not a skirt, he has a yellow jacket tied around his waist. I'm following them along and then find out that we've both missed the turn down a fence line so we have to scramble down a steep slope to the track below.


They continue on and I take a short detour to check out Pink Beach, there's a steep staircase down to the rocks and a hidden beach (behind me). The tide is stopping access although I can report that the small amount of sand I could see did indeed have a pink tinge. This is often caused by broken shell and barnacle plates.


From the beach is was a gentle climb up the track past this lookout shelter. I'm not sure if it is one of the pillboxes left over from WW11 but it certainly looked like a lookout.


At the top of the next hill there's a quintessential New Zealand scene; a gathering of pukeko & sheep; the water trough, and not the views, are hot property here.


This little guy was keeping an eye on my movements, willing me to continue on my way so he didn't have to vacate his shady spot behind the trough.


I carried on up and over another hill until Te Haruhi Bay and home base came into view. 


And then I once again lost my way when I failed to see a marker post, and it's no good trying to follow what you think is the track because there are so many sheep tracks as well. I walked to the bottom and then back up two of those grass slopes (above) looking for the track down to the bay. It was in the third one! And the marker pole was on the fence at the bottom; I couldn't  see it from the top of the hill but I guess most people walk the other way and their pole stands out against the skyline.


So close yet so far! We're parked to the side of the caravan you can see in this photo, centre right. 


We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Shakespear Park and would highly recommend it, the prolific bird life was a definite highlight. We'll return one day.

Monday, October 2

Pakawau- The Home of the Shag

Real-time!!!

Yes, finally I am catching up. But it's been a double-edged sword.  It's not because I have been diligently working away at it (even though I have), it's because we have had so much rain that I've been able to fill in many days doing blogs and photos. Which also means we haven't been exploring as much as we usually would so I don't have too many blogs to catch up on.


We've spent the last three weeks at the beautiful beachside settlement of Pakawau in Golden Bay, at the top of the South Island; Pa= home, kawau= shag. Hence the 'home of the shag' in the title. Not that we've seen many shags (cormorants for my overseas readers), the village should be renamed Patōrea; home of the Oystercatchers, there are hundreds of them!


From Kaiteriteri we headed over the infamous Takaka Hill, winding our way all the way up and then zig-zagging all the way down into Golden Bay. It reminded me of the blog I did the last time we visited Golden Bay and the local tourist slogan- 'It's just a hill, get over it'. 

Just past Takaka we drove down a side road to have lunch at the historic Waitapu Wharf (1863) which was once a bustling commercial and passenger terminus for Golden Bay but now a deserted, slightly battered jetty and home to a few yachts and fishing boats. It was one of our least salubrious lunch stops (spot 'Out There' down there?).


The rain started just as we left the wharf and it hasn't really stopped since- well that's not quite right, but it's rained more than it's shined that's for sure. We were headed to the end of the road, on the far side of Golden Bay just below Farewell Spit,  to the Wharariki Holiday Park. We had a slight delay while we waited for a mob of recently shorn sheep to be returned to their paddock.


We spent about 5 weeks in Golden Bay a couple of years ago, staying mostly at Collingwood and Pohara. This time I wanted to stay near Wharariki Beach's Archway Islands so I could attempt to shoot the islands at sunrise and/or sunset.


Unfortunately after travelling down the narrow 8km gravel road in the pouring rain and driving into the camp, we found the few sites we would have fitted in were boggy and waterlogged.  After chatting with the caretaker, we decided it was probably best to head to another camp. With no turning bay I had to guide David out backwards, no mean feat with the rain now torrential and two excitable horses charging about, thundering up and down banks through the camp. They stopped galloping about to watch us as we left- perhaps they thought we were their horse float come to rescue them from the weather!


We headed back up the road; we had a CAP (cost apply parking) in mind, the Old School Cafe at Pakawau. We'd had a look at it on the way past on our last visit and I'd also heard lots of positive reports, including how great the cafe/restaurant food was.


With signs asking that we respect the lawn and keep driving to a minimum, and with the rain still torrential, we pulled carefully onto the grass in the corner...


...and that is where we stayed, fully hitched for the next 3 nights (max. stay allowed) while the heavens dumped bucket load after bucket load on us. These photos were taken on the last day... 


...just before we crossed over the road to the Pakawau Beach Camp, which is where we have been parked up for just over two weeks. We've had the camp to ourselves many nights and on others, there's just been one or two other vans in.


We've had the most amazing time overlooking this beautiful golden sand beach...


...watching the tides come and go and the weather chop and change just as regularly.


I love to park where there's an open view and where I can watch the world go by from the window...


...from locals walking their dogs, a seal pup arriving for a rest...


...gannets, terns and gulls sweeping back and forward along the breakers, diving for small fish in the shallow waters just outside the window...


...to the local trotter being exercised at low tide.


Pakawau Beach Camp is one of the old school, classic kiwi campgrounds; a bit rough around the edges with basic facilities (there is no dump station) but still perfectly adequate and with the most welcoming and friendly owners. We decided we could have left Kaiteriteri earlier and stayed here for some of the winter (they have weekly winter rates until Labour weekend)- we'll know for next time.


I've had a great time photographing the local birds on the beach and in camp. The air has been filled with bird song from dawn until dusk; the resident tuis are feeding (and courting) in the flowering trees and plants that surround the camp.


I've also managed to capture quite a number of sunrises...


...they're a small consolation for the wet weather than invariably sweeps in not long after the brilliant colours bleach out of the sky.




And of course we made good use of the Old School Cafe- well why wouldn't we, it was just across the road. I can report that the cafe has a great atmosphere and the food is indeed excellent- in order of enjoyment (no, not all on the same day); Seafood Chowder (lunch), Whitebait Fritters (dinner), Blue Cod & Chips (take-away) & Asian Pork Belly (dinner- last day, no food left in the cupboard. Well that's what I told David anyway).