Where the Spirits Head Home- Cape Reinga

Catch-up

From our camp at Tapotupotu Bay is was just a short 5km drive back up to the main highway and along to the Cape Reinga carpark. On the way we stopped at a lookout carpark. From the short walking track to the lookout platform the views looking south towards 90 Mile Beach and the top end of the Te Paki Sand Dunes are magnificent.

Cape Maria van Dieman (the western most point of the North Island) & Motuopao Island can be seen from the lookout platform.

Beautiful white sand Te Werahi Beach can be reached via a walking track from Cape Reinga, and in fact the coastal track along the sea cliffs and beaches from the Cape forms the beginning of the 3000km Cape Reinga to Bluff, Te Araroa Trail. Walking and tramping tracks of varying lengths also criss-cross from one coast to another through the surrounding conservation land.

This area is steeped in Maori tradition and it's good to be able to read about the history & Maori mythology on the display boards that are placed at strategic points at the lookouts and along the walkways. Sandy Bay (bottom left) was actually across the road from the lookout looking north east. I didn't know it when I saw this tiny beautiful bay but I was going to get up close and personal with it soon enough.

A benefit of staying close by was being able to visit Cape Reinga earlier in the day, long before the tour buses arrive, many from Paihia in the Bay of Islands, which is over 200km away. 

The carpark had only a handful of vehicles parked and the entrance to the walking track was deserted when we arrived and we also had the walk to ourselves as we set off down the 400m track to the lighthouse. Cape Reinga is the northernmost point of mainland New Zealand and from the walkway the 360 degree views are spectacular.

The Cape has certainly put on a stunning day for us; we had visited the day before but the sea fog was swirling about so we decided to head down to Te Paki Dunes instead. Another benefit of staying close by, mix & match to suit!

Once again there were plenty of information panels placed along the edge of the walkway; this one is about the Three Kings Islands which are an uninhabited group of islands that sit 55kms northwest of Cape Reinga. I love that the panel mentions my favourite vine Tecomathe, you'll recall I talked about it in the Tokerau Beach NZMCA Park blog; it's planted as a living fence along one of the park's boundaries.

And on a day such as this one, you can clearly see an outline of the Three Kings Islands on the horizon (click photo to enlarge). 

The view along Te Werahi Beach to Cape Maria van Diemen are even more spectacular from the walkway.

And here again is the view as seen the day before when the sea fog rolled in.

Many day visitors take the Te Paki Coastal Track down to the beach from here, some take a couple of days and walk to the Te Paki Stream; that's the stream we drove down when we visited the giant sand dunes. 

There are a few people around the base of the lighthouse but it's lovely to see that it's not too crowded. A visit to Cape Reinga is on many people's 'must do' list when they visit New Zealand and it's also on many Kiwi's lifetime bucket list so it's not surprising that it's one of out most visited tourist sites.

David takes some time out to check out the views and surrounding cliffs why I take photos. 

Cape Reinga is the most spiritually significant place in New Zealand for Maori. It is here that after death, all Maori spirits travel up the coast and over the wind-swept bluffs to the pohutukawa tree on the headland of Te Rerenga Wairua. 

They descend into the underworld (reinga) by sliding down a root into the sea below. The spirits then travel underwater to the Three Kings Islands where they climb out onto Ohaua, the highest point of the islands and bid their last farewell before returning to the land of their ancestors, Hawaiiki-A-Nui.

Cape Reinga Lighthouse; an iconic sight and one of the most photographed lighthouses in New Zealand.

From behind the rock wall on the narrow section of the track just before the lighthouse the sea cliffs drop away into the ocean swell below.

It's here that the Tasman Sea also meets the mighty Pacific Ocean, swirling whirlpools form as the opposing currents meet.

Today, the waters are relatively calm with just a few white caps indicating where the oceans join. Of more interest to the people overlooking the water is an idiot who has climbed over the wall and is slipping and sliding his way down a dirt track to take a selfie. He's being cheered on by his not so brave friends.

That's one more lighthouse photo for my collection and finally we have joined the travel dots for the length of New Zealand, from Bluff to Cape Reinga (including Stewart Island in case you're wondering)

And of course I bag another sign post too...

After a lingering visit and as more and more people arrive at the lighthouse- it would seem the early tour buses have arrived- we make our way back to the carpark.

I take a dirt side track up a small hill that overlooks the lighthouse and appears to be a popular detour. 

Once at the top I can see why, the views are of course spectacular but there's a small queue of people lining up to take selfies or have their photo taken by friends from this small point overlooking the cliffs and beach below. I think I just stumbled on a popular Instagram 'must have' shot.

I wait my turn and take a photo (no, not a selfie). From this vantage point I can also clearly see the Te Paki track running along the cliff edge.

I head back to the entrance and when I look back more people are taking the detour up the hill from the carpark side and I can also see that a wide bank of sea fog is rolling in from the west.

It's a bit of a shock when I walk back through the entrance to the carpark; where the heck did all these people come from! 

Being a sacred Maori site eating is not permitted in the Cape Reinga reserve and carpark. We drive back down the road until we find a small area off the road where we can eat our lunch. As the sea fog rolled in a giant bird rose into the sky. A very poignant moment at Cape Reinga where Maori believe the spirits of the dead travel to, on their journey to the afterlife.

'Where the Spirits Head Home'

Journey To The Top

Catch-up

We left Tokerau and the beautiful Karikari Peninsula heading north once again, north on our way to the very tip of the North Island. I'm sure every Kiwi has a pilgrimage to Cape Reinga on their 'must do once in a lifetime' bucket list. I know it's certainly on many overseas visitor's list going by the amount of tour buses, rental cars and campers we pass on the road.

The trip to the top for most people usually involves travelling part of the journey along 90 Mile Beach (which, despite the name, is only 55 miles long) but of course with the 5th-wheeler on the back this wasn't going to be an option for us. Although having experienced the beach and the access points later in our visit, we decided we could quite easily take the rig along the sand. We had a quiet chuckle imagining the looks on people's faces as we sailed by (literally if it was high tide!). 

We'd decided to drive to the top, stay in the DOC campground near Cape Reinga for a few days and then explore more slowly on our way back down the 100km long Aupouri Peninsula-the finger of land that forms the top of the North Island.

Of course this didn't mean we weren't able to stop along the way so I could add a few more church photos to my collection; the first one just outside Kaitaia; St Josephs Anglican Maori Church built in 1887.

The Seven Day Adventist Church at Te Kao has seen better days but I've included it here because I wanted to tell you a funny story about taking this photo. Well it is funny now, but at the time it wasn't, it was the most scariest thing I've experience on this journey of ours.

David had pulled up just off the road edge in front of a couple of rural houses. The church was on the other side of the road so I got out, crossed the road and took a few photos and then made my way back over the road and behind the rig to walk up to the front and my passenger door. As I walked around the back of the van this large barking, snarling, teeth bared mongrel of a dog burst out the open gate of one of the houses, charging straight for me.

I have never moved so fast in all my life, I took off down the side of the rig yelling for all I was worth and hoping David would see or hear me and do something, though I'm not sure what. As I reached my door I yanked it open but I was travelling too fast to leap inside so I kept running, pulling the door wide open and jumping behind it. I then shoved the door back & forward a few times like a shield, shouting and screaming at the dog.

By now a guy had also come charging out his gate shouting at the dog (which took not one bit of notice). David's looking at me through the gap in the door like, 'what the hell are you doing, crazy woman?', not having seen or heard anything until I wrenched the door open. Thank God the dog must have thought where did she go and stopped in his tracks and started sniffing around the rear tyre of the ute and then disappeared behind the ute and out onto the road. I leap into the ute and slammed the door and David quickly pulled out. I didn't look back but I can tell you the heart & adrenaline were pumping for many miles afterwards. Now instead of David calling out watch for traffic when I get out to take photos, he's taken to saying check for dogs too!

We stopped again just a couple of miles up the road when I saw one of my 'must have' churches ahead of us, the distinctive Ratana church at Te Kao. I've had this church on my list for a very long time and it was great to actually see it in the flesh. And this time I had a good look around before I opened the door.

Further on we had another exciting but much tamer encounter, an emu! An emu just walking along the fence line through a scrubby paddock beside the highway. Emu farming was a new enterprise back in the 1990s but difficulties in getting the birds slaughtered soon caused a decline in the industry. During that time some birds had escaped their fenced enclosures, others were kept as domestic pets and it has also been rumoured that some farmers released their birds to roam wild.

Sightings of random emus has been reported in many areas around Northland & the Far North and in fact this was my 3rd sighting of a bird. I'd seen one near Kawakawa and another near Tauranga Bay and although they didn't look fenced in, I couldn't be sure as it was a fleeting glance as we drove past. This one though was the closest I'd seen and in an area where it could wander at large so it definitely wasn't a captive bird.

As we drew closer to the top of  peninsula, the landscape opened up; big skies, rolling farmland intermingled with swathes of native scrub and bush, dune lakes, wetland swamps and out on the edges huge golden sand dunes. 

Five kilometres before we reach the top we turned right down a narrow dusty gravel road...

....that drops down through the manuka scrub into Tapotupotu Bay and the DOC campsite we'll be staying at for the next few days.

At the bottom we're greeted by small sandy bay and a lovely golden sand beach tucked in between two headlands...

...and two camping areas- I call them corrals- one for campervans and the other for tents.

I can understand the tent corral, this DOC Camp is on the 48km Te Paki Coastal Walk and at the start of the 3000km Te Araroa Trail so tenters need some space of their own...

...but I have no idea why the powers that be would want to corral all the campervans & motorhomes together because...

...carry on around the corner and there is a huge amount of open space to camp, right on the edge of the estuary.

Which is where we set up...

...and two or three other clever clogs! I thought it was Kiwis that followed along like sheep. In fact I think it's because foreign tourists are sometimes unsure of what to do and where to go and don't want to do anything wrong so follow the leader.

There was plenty to see parked on the side of the estuary, the tide range was so great we were able to watch the lagoon fill and empty with each tide, bird watch out the back window and watch boaties come and go...

...including this group of guys who had a lot of fishing gear set up on their jet skis. In fact they were doing some filming for a TV programme one guy told David as his drone whizzed about around the estuary.

We saw them later in the afternoon when we visit Cape Reinga, far out at sea. We watched them skirt around the outside of the islands off Cape van Diemen and then pass around Cape Reinga as they headed back to Tapotupotu Bay, again way out so as to miss the turbulent waters below us where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. You can see to tiny splashes of white, centre right in the first photo, they were just tiny dots and we would have missed them had we not known they were out there.

The camp, estuary, stream and mangrove margins were ideal for bird watching- here are a few of the usual suspects; clockwise- A Eurasian Skylark, an epic struggle between a male Sparrow & a Grasshopper, not a bird but just about as big, a Giant Bush Dragonfly, a female Ring-necked Pheasant, a Black Shag and a Welcome Swallow.

This rather plain but dainty little lily was flowering along the edges of the tracks, and through all the thick grasses, it's not a native and I've not seen it before. 

I was up early every morning to search out two specific and very secretive birds. The sunrises weren't quite as spectacular as I had been capturing but still lovely as the suited the subdued surroundings.

I had managed to spot two Banded Rail/Mioweka from the kitchen window, they were across a wide expanse of exposed sand feeding amongst the mangrove air roots along the edge of the stream that fed out to sea at low tide.

They were very quick to disappear into the mangroves and tussock behind at the slightest movement from our side of the estuary though.

Click photo to enlarge- two Banded Rail centre

I did manage to sneak up on them once but only took a fleeting photo as one of them flashed past. I didn't mind though. After my very first sighting and taking a couple of good photos at Whangaparoa's Shakespear Park, then another sighting at Sandspit, this was my third sighting up north so I was just pleased to see them once again.

I knew there were Fernbirds/Matata about when I heard their distinctive clicking calls as I was walking along the boardwalk and over the bridge near our campsite. 

Often heard but rarely seen, Fernbirds aren't quite as shy as the Banded Rail but they are just about as impossible to find because they move fast, skulking through the dense vegetation at ground level and seldom poking their head out of the greenery. 

'You looking for me?'

But they are nosy and if you sit quietly in the middle of their territory watching for the slightest of movements in the reeds or thick scrub around you they'll often poke their head out or jump on to an open branch nearby to check you out. But as quick as a flash they'll be gone again. 

If they have a mate nearby or feel threatened they can also call briefly from the top of a nearby bush, but they'll disappear just as quickly to appear again not much further on, atop the next bush. 

We explored along the boardwalk and track (part of the Te Paki Coastal Walk) up into the bush over the hill on the other side of the estuary a short distance...

...and then along a 4WD track that followed the Tapotupotu Stream deeper into the valley behind the camp. It would be great kayaking quietly up this backwater, we flushed a number of different birds but the dense undergrowth made it hard to spot them.

Each day, as the tide went out I also watched from the window a pair of beautiful steely grey Reef Herons/Matuku Moana stalking prey along the receding waterline. They were very wary too and I only got a little closer to them by putting a bush between them and me and then quietly sneaking up on them using the bush as cover.

Looking like stealth bombers, with wings flattened out to keep their profile low and to help them see fish in the shadow, they carefully paced up and down the water's edge...

...until they spotted a hapless fish which, with lightening fast speed, they caught and swallowed.

Even though I suspect the reef herons were a pair, one of them did not like the other to be within sight and they both did not like the local White-faced Heron/Matuku feeding or flying by either. The dominant Reef Heron spent a lot of his time chasing the other one away and they both chased any nearby gulls and the White-faced Heron away. He just flew up to his favourite tree stump and laughed at them.