Queenstown Lakes in Autumn

Catch-up

We headed off to Queenstown on Easter Monday both looking forward to seeing David's daughter (who we haven't seen in a year or so) and her partner when they arrived off a plane from Australia, the next day. Our Winton family also drove through for a couple of days of family time too.

We stopped at a very busy Cromwell dump station on our way out of town and then made our way back to the main road, past the autumnal looking Bannockburn vineyards.

The road through the Kawarau Gorge is also known as 'The Golden Highway' due to its gold mining history but at this time of the year, it also reflects the beautiful colours of the poplars and willows that contrast against the stark grey rock faces and brilliant blue of the river that flows through the gorge.

We stopped at Lake Hayes for lunch, we've stayed here a couple of times but for this visit we're heading to a campground so we can chill and relax without the worry of having to park in the allocated space and move after two nights.

It was a brilliant blue sky sunny day with just a slight chill, the cloud hund low around the Remarkables but dissipated soon after this photo was taken. Whenever we stop, I'm always out and shooting photos straight away. It's been proved too often that if I wait until after that cup of tea or lunch, the scene will change and the moment gone forever.

The next day I came back to Lake Hayes to get a few more photos of the autumn colours.

I also stopped at another little rest area half way along the lake where I'd seen a bright blob of brilliant yellow...

...and found not only the willows on the lakeside above but this beautiful setting below. With the lake's walking trail passing along the front of the property and the reserve on another side it's no wonder there were numerous signs telling people to 'Keep Out'. Unfortunately there are a few overseas tourists who have no idea of personal space (or couldn't read) and were clambering over the garden at the front of the house.

After lunch at Lake Hayes we moved on to our regular campground when we're not freedom camping, the Top10 at Arthurs Point, just above Skippers Canyon on the Shotover River. Queenstown campgrounds are always busy and I'd booked our usual site a few weeks ago, the one we can neatly slot into without too much hassle as all the sites are reasonably small and tight. 

'Yes, Mrs Evans you can have your preferred site #41, no, that's fine, no problems, we look forward to seeing you again' 

...except they forgot to tell me they've added a nice little toilet portacom over the clearway. 

With a little maneuvering David managed to park the van in perfectly but luckily we arrived early afternoon as it was chaos later when the rentals vans started arriving. As it was we had a guy drumming his fingers on the steering wheel of his rental as he waited to pass us to another site. Impatient bugger!

The camp have also put in a new dump station but unfortunately while the previous one was bad enough for access, there's no way we'd fit into this one. Luckily we'd done our business at Cromwell.

As the afternoon wore on, the rentals filed in...

...until there wasn't a site to spare...

Being able to back in off  the clearway is not the only reason we like our preferred site, this is the only site with a hedge on either side too, so it's great for privacy. Being tightly packed in like sardines is not our idea of camping but we've found out, that if we want to do a few things in Queenstown and/or are there for a few days and want to have no worries, this Top10 suits us fine. And actually when you're totally self-contained you can keep your own space or get involved as it suits. 

We weren't due at the airport until mid afternoon on Tuesday so I left David relaxing and went for a drive through to Arrowtown to check out the autumn colours.

Arrow River

The Arrowtown Autumn Festival was due to start the next day with the big finale on the weekend. 

We've attended the festival twice before and had we not been tied up with family this year, we'd have probably gone to this one too. Well, gone to the NZMCA rally associated with the Festival anyway, just to enjoy the camaraderie and to see Prue & Harry again (who organise the rally).

Although it doesn't look like it from here, the little town was full to overflowing with every spare space taken by cars, rental motorhomes and buses, many parked along the river bank below the main street, with dozens of people crowding the footpaths and shops and this wasn't even the Festival proper! 

Having seen it all several times before, I made a hasty retreat to the cenotaph above the town to take some scenic shots.

Once finished there, I headed for Lake Hayes (photos at the beginning of the blog) and then home stopping to take a photo of this stone cottage I'd spied as we passed a clearing yesterday.

Not for the first time this season, I've felt autumn wasn't quite firing on all cylinders. Yes, there was still lots of colour but many trees had already shed their leaves and other weren't colouring up before dropping theirs. I guess I've been spoilt having now experienced three Central Otago autumns.

Winter Has Arrived

Real-time

Blog posts will be a little intermittent over the next few weeks as we'll have limited connection as we move through Haast Pass and up the West Coast at a snail's pace. Well, I'm hoping it will be a snail's pace but if the weather is anything like it has been the last three weeks, we'll be through there quicker than we think.  It has rained 14 days out of our last 18; we shift and it rains, we shift and it rains, we shift and it snows! 

You'll recall we went to Moke Lake, south of Queenstown a couple of weeks ago. There we had one fine day out of 5 before we decided to move back to Queenstown to wait for a weather change before heading to Glenorchy. Well, it rained for 3 out of 4 days there, luckily we managed to fit Skippers in before it got too muddy and well before the snow that has now fallen.

The day before a forecast fine day, we left for Glenorchy in the pouring rain so we'd be set to go when the sun came out. Which it did, we had 2 fine days out of 5 there and managed to fit in a trip around the lake to Kinloch and to the end of the road where Greenstone/Caples tramping track leaves from. This is the view across the lake from near Kinloch.

We also managed a trip out to Paradise (LOTR famous now) and a walk around Lake Sylvan while the sun shone. I will do blog posts on our Glenorchy activities soon.

But for most of the time it rained and rained and rained some more. We haven't had to top up our tanks with tap water for a few weeks, collecting it off the roof and awning every wet day. While most of the time it rained, we stayed indoors (power and free wi-fi allowed us both to catch up on computer jobs), we did manage to walk the Glenorchy Lagoon walkway. 

Rees River- Routeburn Valley back left, Rees Valley back right

It was pretty dismal and the rain started again not long after we headed out but it was good to get some fresh air into our lungs albeit cold fresh air.

I wanted to capture the wharf shed in the sun but we didn't get back in time. I just managed to shoot it as the sun was going down here.

Finally, the rain just got too much for us and we headed back to Queenstown.....in the pouring rain! Which meant we didn't get to see any of the beautiful scenery along the lake, there or back.

We were intending to stop at Lake Hayes again for a couple of nights so we could do another road trip that was on our 'to do' list; up the Remarkables ski field road, the one that appears in many of my Queenstown photos, zig-zagging its way up the side of the mountain. But it was torrential rain by the time we drove through the town and we decided that when the rain eventually did stop there was probably going to be a whole lot of snow up there. We'd left our run too late for this trip. Our Indian summer had really come to an end.

After lunch, parked on the edge of a very soggy and miserable Lake Hayes, we carried on through the gorge to Cromwell. And with a howling gale blowing and horizontal rain, we decided it would be more sheltered at the NZMCA Rotary Glen Park, than the more exposed Lowburn just down the road.  Well, it was as miserable as sin there. It rained solid for two whole days, rivers of water flowed through camp, mud coated anything and everything and the cloud and fog pressed down on us in our little hollow. And when there was a break in the cloud we could see the source of the cold; snow on all the nearby ranges. We also decided we're not the only mad buggers 'Out There' either.  

On the third day the sun came out and I'd had enough of Rotary Glen. Did I mention the leaves- great waves of leaves blew across the park with every gust of wind, catching on the fence and then washing over the top, breaking free and tumbling down to gather at the lake edge.

We still had a couple things to do in Cromwell so we shifted to a more settled Lowburn...

...where we had the place to ourselves. Very different to the last few times we've stopped here when it's been bumper to bumper RVs! It was a lovely afternoon- snow all around us, warm sun and calm air...

 ...but look what we awoke to this morning, thick pea soup! A forum friend told me, 'Fog is just clouds too darn lazy to get out of bed' I like it!

It took all morning but eventually the fog rolled back to reveal a reasonable day; it was another couple of hours before it lifted off Cromwell town at the bottom of the lake.

I decided to drive through to Queenstown this afternoon for one last visit before we leave for the West Coast. After all the rain, low cloud and cold temperatures, I wanted to see how much snow had fallen and see if I could get a few photos. I'm please I did, it was lovely to see familiar scenes in a different season. Here's the Crown Range behind Arrowtown- 

Lake Hayes and The Remarkables reflected in an icy pool- we parked here for lunch the other day when it was pouring with rain. We could hardly see the lake.

And this might look familar; the Lower Shotover River with The Remarkables behind... 

I took the same shot 4 weeks ago; there's been a lot of water under the bridge since then.

Upstream, with Coronet Peak on the far left...

And 4four weeks ago, isn't nature a wonderful thing?

And one last photo of Lake Hayes from the other end, looking towards Arrowtown and the Crown Range.

I love the Queenstown area, it's so beautiful with stunning scenery in every direction, it's just a pity it rained so much for us on this, our fourth (or is that 5th?) visit. But still, I managed to squeeze in some great shots and I'm sure we'll be back through here again in the not too distant future. 

It's time to see what the West Coast can throw at us. 

Arrowtown Autumn Festival- 2016

After being dropped off by our rally shuttle bus at the top of the hill we wandered down into Arrowtown village...

...and along Buckingham Street catching the tail end of the vintage cars leaving on their own rally after being parked up along the street on display. They'd be back for the Festival Parade later in the afternoon.

I laughed out loud when I uploaded this particular photo. It would have been a exclamation of surprise had I not met the two people in black puffer jackets later in the day. Judy and Frank are from Tauranga (our old home town), and I've played golf with Judy on many occasions. They appear in half a dozen shots and I hadn't even seen them through my camera lens. It just goes to show what I miss when I'm focused on a particular subject. Luckily, Judy spotted me later (in amongst a large crowd I might add) and we were able to catch up.

We made our way down to the village green, where underneath the colourful autumn trees, a large and very busy arts and craft market was taking place.

We stopped to watch one of the street entertainers who had a large crowd totally enthralled and involved with his antics. His mullet and tiger tights with the strategically placed tiger head (which he wore, legs rolled up, under his shorts before the great reveal) were popular props.

There were many interesting stalls manned by some very clever and enterprising people. I love a good market (I have it in my blood- my mother still has a stall at a Napier market most weekends) but unfortunately when you live on the road there's not much room for knick-knacks, heavy ceramics, tall wire sculptures or large wooden furniture and there's only so many smellies one can purchase...

...so we tend to gravitate towards the food stalls. Although it wasn't the $12 price tag that stopped us from buying a whitebait fritter, it was the mile long queue!

I love people-watching and I have the feeling that this guy, in his steam punk get-up, likes being watched as I saw him half a dozen times as he wandered around and around and around the market again. I love the look on the little girl's face. Try explaining that, Mum.

What a beautiful backdrop to the festival. The Autumn Festival runs for 5 days, with various entertainment, tours and shows happening around the town, Saturday is the big day with the market and parade.

By the time we emerged from the market another performer was fully engaged in entertaining the crowd.

It takes an awful lot of trust and skill, juggling- a knife included- while standing on a bike, mounted on a pole, that's being held taut by four very obliging guys from the crowd. Especially when you've just spent the last 10 minutes taking the mickey out of them. One very brave man.

After a rather bleak start to the day, the sun and blue skies brought the main street alive, as crowds of people descended on the village.

Although it was rather difficult getting past another entertainer when we wandered back up the street. He was quick to pick off anybody who tried to move away or past as he performed. 

I've found that if you have a camera stuck to your face, they're less likely to want to include you in their act; they prefer to play to the camera than make a fool of you. Consummate showmen.

The crowd thought he was pretty clever, especially the children, cheering and laughing at his every joke and move. Although they took a moment to adsorb one joke which I thought was quite witty- he told us he has enjoyed New Zealand the most in his travels (he's from the States), because Kiwis support the All Blacks.

He ignored the old adage of 'never working with children...', asking a young boy in the crowd, who had a unicycle, to do a few laps while he set up some of his gear and giving him $5 in return. Then having this little girl hold a spinning basketball on her finger. She was handed $10 after she spent a little time chasing him around the circle for it.

He was very good though, with amazing skill, flexibility and co-ordination, manhandling three large basketballs in front of, around, through and behind himself.

Half an hour before the Festival Parade was due to start we found ourselves a good possie sitting in the gutter and leaning on a pole, on the sunny side of the street. Poles are good nobody can crowd you from behind. We knew from experience there would be a bit of jostling going on closer to the start time.  

Nothing bugs me more than getting yourself in a good position, sitting or standing there for half an hour or more while others continue to enjoy the entertainment, to then have someone maneuver and push their way through to take a place right in front of you. I'm afraid they get a short-shift from me. 

Why anyone expects to arrive late and get the best seat in the house is beyond me. As it was the guy beside me harrumphed and mumbled his way through the parade when a couple with a toddler plonked themselves down in the gutter in front of him just as the parade started and after promising him they would stay seated, stood up often blocking his video view of the parade.

The early birds entertained themselves while waiting for the parade to begin.

And it wasn't too long before a Yak 52 came roaring into sight and performed some death-defying aerobatics above us...

Before zipping back and forward along the slope behind as if highlighting and framing the beautiful autumn colours Arrowtown is famous for. A waving hand appeared out the cockpit window on the last fly-past and he disappeared back over the range behind.

The sound of bagpipes off in the distance heralded the start of the parade...

...which was soon followed by a few of the vintage cars...

...the Town Cryers...

...a few more shiny automobiles...

...Farmer Brown, chewing a barley stalk (if you look closely), and his vintage tractor...

...dancing girls...

...various entertainment groups, and the local vet with a menagerie of animals ...

...Chinese Lion Dancers, who scared the bejesus out of small children sitting in the gutters...

...a 'flower basket' vehicle that looked the most like the parade floats of yesteryear...

...a selection of classic cars, many from my era...

And one of our good old 'shuttle buses', carrying children from a local school.

A deep rumbling and road vibration, along with a huge plume of coal smoke signified the approach of the heavy machinery...

...aptly followed by fire brigade and other emergency service vehicles and personnel...

  ..bringing up the rear, and the end of a fantastic and interesting parade.

If you'd like to see many more photos from the parade and especially of the vintage vehicles, click on this link, it'll take you to my Flickr Album.

While we waited for the parade to disperse and our bus to arrive I found this lady entertaining children with her bubbles. She was unaware that 'Superman' was trying to touch her bottom! I'm not sure what he was trying to reach, but she was moving about quite fast and he was following along behind. She didn't have a 'tail', perhaps he wanted to touch her wings. Try doing that in a few years time little fellow and you'll get more than your hand slapped!

What better way to finish off a fabulous day of fun and entertainment than to treat yourself to a double coned, chocolate flaked snow-freeze icecream. Caught you, Paul! You'll have to work that off running up the side of a steep hill returning a wayward wallet.

And one last shot of that beautiful slope- taken from the open air bus window, while waiting in a three vehicle traffic jam.