A Walking Adventure to Cape Campbell

Catch-up; November 6, 2017

I have wanted to do the 14km (return) walk along the beach, from Marfells to Cape Campbell, for a very long time. Cape Campbell forms the south-eastern tip of Cook Strait and the top of the South Island's east coast. 

This photo was taken just past Mussel Point, from here there's still 6kms to walk to reach the lighthouse; that tiny dot on the end.

Before the earthquake, the walk was subject to the tide and I'd never quite made a concerted effort to time it right. Either the tide was wrong or the weather wasn't great, though I'd always watch wistfully as quad bikes loaded with families and/or divers, fishers and all their gear, disappeared around Mussel Point.

Looking back towards Mussel Point

Now that the 'quake has lifted the seabed, the tide doesn't have quite the hold over the coastline it once did. There are couple of bluffs where it does reach and one landslide that looks like it came down in the 'quake. You'd have to reach them right at the top of the tide for them to be a problem and if you did I would say you'd only have to wait 15 minutes or so before the tide turned and it cleared enough to pass.

It was a stunningly beautiful day for a seaside walk and I had the whole beach to myself all the way to the Cape. With not another soul in sight I took my time exploring the newly formed rock pools and checking out various shore birds in the driftwood and dunes above the high tide line.

I also found a seal resting in the warm sunshine, obviously the quad bike that was returning home just as I left camp had found it too, cutting in a bit too close for my liking. Amongst the Variable Oystercatcher and Black-backed Gull pairs there were quite a number of  Banded Dotterel pairs who were acting a lot like they had either a nest or chicks nearby- can you see one resting behind the driftwood? 

I left them to it and moved back down onto the smooth sand, where it was much easier walking. You can see where the tide reaches in this shot looking back to Mussel Point. There is a narrow dirt track just above the tide line that I suspect sheep have formed. I guess if there's a lot of wave action it might be a little harder to pass through here near high tide.

And speaking of sheep; how's this for living on the edge; ewes and their lambs right at the top of the cliffs peering down at me passing by.

And as I scanned the papa cliffs I found a few more resting on the slopes which are way steeper than they look here. I thought they were goats at first. Sheep have now gone up in my estimations, they are way more agile than I'd given them credit for. They're still crazy though (click the photo to enlarge)

As the kilometres shrink, the lighthouse grows in size. I zoom in and think I spot a couple of vehicles parked beside the buildings. Selfishly I think 'darn!', I'd have liked the place to myself. 

In this eastern corner of Clifford Bay and just before the Cape, the ocean current and wave action has dumped great piles of seaweed on the papa rock platform and up onto the gravel behind. The top layers have dried in the hot sun but underneath it's a smelly, slippery, slimy mess. And I think to myself that I'll carefully walk over it to the papa platform near the water, then cut the corner off to the lighthouse.

I know before I even hit the deck that I've stepped onto something even slipperier, wet papa rock that hasn't had time to dry in the late morning sun. I stumble forward, then sideways, one arm flailing trying to gain balance the other trying to keep my camera safe. I think I have it under control just as my foot slips into a narrow channel and I pitch forward landing on my knees, belly and hands. Bugga! 

My camera hand is buried in mud, the camera resting in my palm and just out of the muck, there's blood trickling from one knee and a massive scrape on the other. A few small sharp shells stick out from my other palm and I'm dripping wet (I've landed in a shallow water filled scrape) with odd bits of seaweed and driftwood stuck to my clothes. And I ache. 

Thankfully my pack is safe on my back, I remove it and find one lonely dried out wet-wipe to wipe the camera down (which I find has taken a small hit on the lens- double bugga!), clean my hands and then wipe away the blood and mud- all in that order. Even though I know there's no one around I still look to see if anyone has seen my little performance. I then feel eyes on me, I'm sure they're wondering what on earth I'm doing and I guarantee they're laughing under those blank stares.

I gather everything together and step forward....Yee-o-ouch!!!....my left foot can hardly take my weight, I've done something serious catching it in the channel. Until I moved I'd been unaware of how bad it was. Now what to do, there's no phone reception and I can hardly walk. I think I'll have to hobble to the buildings and if it hasn't come right, see if the people there can help me. I move cautiously forward, one small step at a time until I reach the lighthouse buildings.

I'm sure I saw two vehicles parked in front of the cottages, now there's not a soul in sight. They didn't pass me so where did they go?

I decide that there's not much else I can do except walk very slowly home. And yes I have a PLB (personal locator beacon), we always carry one, but this situation wouldn't warrant setting it off- I can still move and I'm not in any danger. And anyway I still have photos to take. Because I've come this far and the lighthouse is my target, I'll not let a bung foot stop me from climbing the stairway to it.

I cautiously hobble across the grass to the bottom of the stairs and then slowly haul myself up them one at a time. 

It's hard work and I make sure I hold on to the rail at all times, it is rather steep.

I stop often to rest my foot and to take in the views below and back over Clifford Bay.

Finally I reach the top and I shuffle around the side of the lighthouse to find a step or something to sit on to have my lunch and rest awhile.

When I look over the otherside, I spot the two vehicles from the cottages heading south towards Cape Campbell Station. The farm actually owns the lighthouse cottages now and hire them out for self-catered stays. They also run the Cape Campbell Walk, a 4 day trek through the farm and around the coastline, staying at various farm cottages along the way.

The cottages can be accessed via the farm and when I zoom in on the people, I see they have a TV camera and big fluffy microphone; perhaps they're doing a doco on the earthquake; they have just walked back from off the rocks.  The other vehicle's occupants have closed the gate and headed off around the far point. I'm now definitely on my lonesome.

Although it's a nice surprise to find out that I now have phone reception so I call David to let him know that I've had a small fall and while I'm OK, it might take a while for me to walk home. So don't panic. He wants to come and get me and while the beach would be fine to drive down, we both doubt he'll get through the very deep and soft pea metal back on the camp side of Mussel Point. I assure him I'll be OK, I'll just take my time.

I also get the usual "Oh no, not again, weren't you being careful?" "Yes, of course I was being careful, do you think I do this for the fun of it? Grrrrr.....

I have my lunch and then take a few photos of the lighthouse; I'm getting quite a collection of lighthouses now; like swingbridges, cribs and churches they make interesting subjects.

I change to my wide angle lens so the lighthouse doesn't fill the whole shot and I can see the surroundings...

...and I can take a wide angled shot of the Cape. Cape Campbell is in the middle of Ward Beach and Marfells Beach and much of this rocky platform would have been under water before the 'quake too; the green algae is the new low tide zone.

That's the North Island across the water, centre right and the Marlborough Sounds to the left. I really wanted to clamber down and out to the point in front of me so I could get a shot looking back towards the lighthouse but I managed to restrain myself.

I gave David one last call to say I'd be on my way in 15 minutes, just so he could monitor the time, then I carefully made my way back down the stairs, stopping to take some photos of the cottages before carrying on.

The lighthouse and cottages were used in the the film 'The Light Between Oceans', based on the bestselling novel by M. L. Stedman. Here's my photo and a screen shot from the film's trailer-

I carefully hobbled along the driftwood strewn gravel track and made my way around the outside of the pesky seaweed pile (the cause of all my problems) back to the smooth sand. I knew once I reached there it would be a lot easier going and I could get into a less painful walking rhythm that might not be fast, but would get me home at a steady pace.

I hadn't dare take my boot off back at the lighthouse, in case I couldn't get it back on but I could certainly feel that my foot was swelling up inside. It looked like the weather was about to change too, hopefully I'd get back before any wind or rain arrived. Wait.....is that......yes it is! It's a vehicle and it's heading my way. My hero!! (click to enlarge)

David made it through the pea gravel- after a chat with, and a few tips from the camp host- the art is to somehow just keep the vehicle moving. He also threw our large rubber mats in the back in case he had to use those to drive over to get out. He could have let the tyres down a little too but thought he'd risk them as they were. 

What a relief it was to see him. I'd managed to cover about 2kms but I was beginning to think the task ahead of me was going to kill me....ok, well not kill me, but certainly damage my foot.

A mirage? 

It was heaven to lower myself into the front seat and have David navigate our way back home. Although I had a tinge of disappointment knowing I couldn't complete the 14km round trip.

We both had a bit of a 'hold your breath and egg the vehicle on moment' driving back through the metal, I think I even closed my eyes as the momentum died and we very nearly ground to a halt but David managed to just keep it ticking on and inching forward until we were free. 

And that was how I found myself at the Blenheim Hospital A&E the next day having an x-ray (heavily sprained), wearing a moon boot (no half or small sizes left) and being told to rest my foot for three weeks. Yeah right, didn't they know we were heading to Tauranga to catch up with family and prepare for Christmas. The boot lasted all of two days, I did rest my foot as much as I could over the next few weeks. I tried my best to not rush around and eventually, after 4 weeks it returned to normal. 

Kaikoura to Winter Warmth

Real-time

With fine weather forecast for the next couple of days we left Kaikoura heading for one of our favourite spots, the DOC Campground at Marfells Beach. Over summer it's usually a toss up between Marfells and Ward Beach which isn't too far away. But over winter when the sun drops behind the hill early at Ward Beach the choice is a lot easier....unless it's blowing a gale. But then neither sites would be very nice.

Being the weekend, there were a few other like minder people already set up on the front row sites.

This didn't worry us as our favoured site is right at the end of the camping ground, which is a long thin area between the road and the beach. 

Except that our spot was fenced off so we went and made a mess in the next section. Actually we didn't but somebody had made a bit of a mess in the mud behind us.

Our site doesn't have any shelter shrubs so if the wind does get up we can get a bit of a battering. We were staying hitched up this time, so it would have been no issue to move if the wind did arrive.

It was great to be beside the ocean again, and lovely to have such warm weather; it almost felt like summer. Sunrise the next morning was beautiful as it rose up behind Cape Palliser across the Strait providing us with a silhouetted view of the North Island, our first sight in a quite a few months.

While I was taking my sunrise photos, a large dog came bounding up the beach barking it's head off at me, like this was her patch and what the hell was I doing in it. Her owner had slept in his car in the boat trailer carpark and we'd seen the dog wandering about the evening before. 

Being a DOC camp, dogs are banned, but once again there are people out there that choose to ignore the rules. I thumped my hand on the picnic table and told her to 'get home' in my gruffest voice. She did turn around but when I next looked she was making her way up a nearby track towards me. I made a hasty retreat inside.

Sunday morning in the fast lane.

There's also a couple of camping areas behind the front row and up on a rise overlooking the beach. It's here that I found Judy & Len who had already stopped by to say hello. They've been following my blog for awhile and got a surprise to see us arrive. It was lovely to meet you both and I hope you enjoyed Ward Beach.

I usually walk east along the beach to Mussel Point from where you can see Cape Campbell and lighthouse in the distance, but the first morning I walked west. There's a large jetty sticking out into Clifford Bay off in the distance and I've been meaning to walk to it everytime we've stopped at Marfells. It was such a lovely day I decided today was the day. 

You can certainly see where the prevailing wind comes from here on the bluff above the road, just before the camp. Part of these clay cliffs came down onto the road, closing it for a number of days, during the August, 2013 Seddon earthquake. There was a 4.3 magnitude earthquake near Seddon while we were at Marfells this time- we were walking on the beach and never felt it luckily.

I knew it was going to be quite a walk even though the jetty looked to be closer than it was. It turned out to be just over 3kms one way. Usually that wouldn't be a problem, but unfortunately I'd left my run too late and the tide was about 2/3rds of the way in. The nice firm sand I started walking on soon turned to 'very hard to walk on' soft, sinking sand as the tide pushed me up the beach. It was hard going.

Beach shelter

Half way along I made my way up into the dunes and found a 4WD track which was a tiny bit easier to walk along. And then that ran onto a firm farm track which followed the fence-line along the back of the dunes. Lake Grassmere and Dominion Salt's, salt ponds are on the other side of the fence. The ponds aren't the gorgeous pink colour that they are in late spring and early summer when the algae blooms. The link above is to a blog I did on the ponds and Marfells when we first visited the area over two years ago.

I knew I was getting close to the jetty when I popped up near this cool Land Rover. I'd seen it atop the dunes from way back. A guy was teaching his partner to surf cast.

It was then just a short walk to the jetty where another fisherman was trying his luck off the end of the structure. This is the old Dominion Salt Works jetty and it looks rather out of place, high and dry and stuck on a beach in the middle of a very large bay.

Clifford Bay was where the Government was looking at sending the Cook Strait ferries, shifting the terminal from Picton to the bay. Perhaps 'the powers that be' were thinking of using the jetty as part of the ferry terminal! 

Photos taken (another jetty to add to my bridge/jetty collection), it's time to retrace my steps. This time, all the way along the fence-line back to the road. The Land Rover was still in the dunes.

The only other people I saw on the walk were these two on their horses out for a lovely Sunday afternoon trek.

I found their vehicle back on the road. I'm not sure whether they stayed overnight but what a great way to see the countryside. A float to transport your steeds and a campervan to meet your needs. 

The sunset was stunning, a warm golden glow bathing the bay and silhouetting the Norfolk Pines in camp. It also highlighted how much salt spray was in the air.

The next morning I walked to Mussel Point (you can see the point in the breakfast photo) just a short 1.5km away but making sure I had plenty of firm sand this time!

Looking back towards camp

Along the way I spied this White-faced Heron/Matuku checking out clumps of seaweed...

...and a hundred or so Red-billed Gulls/Tarapunga squawking and squabbling as they sorted through a large patch of exposed seaweed. 

By the time I reached Mussel Point, the tide was on its way back in. There are good sized mussels on the rocks near the back, David has managed to get a good few when we've visited during the summer.

Further on from the point, the bay sweeps around to Cape Campbell and the prominent lighthouse on it's point.

That walk is also on my 'to-do list' but it'll have to wait until summer, it's another 5kms to the Cape and you have to time it right with the tides. The beach is blocked by the tide beneath the bluffs that I've just passed on my way to Mussel Point.

The weather clouded over mid afternoon so we decided to head to Blenheim, just a short distance away. We parked up at our regular stop-over, the Blenheim Racecourse where we have a 'secret' spot to park. It's sheltered and private....except on darts night which happened to be last night (through that door beneath the grandstand!). It's also not so good during winter as it takes awhile for the sun to make an appearance around the front of the grandstand. 

It was lovely to meet two Blenheim couples (separately) who went out of their way to come and say hello to us while we were parked at the racecourse. They follow my blog and belong to a couple of motorhome Facebook pages I contribute to. 

Hi Diane & Roger and Brenda & Robert, many thanks for stopping by and hopefully we'll meet up on the road somewhere in the future- and next time, hopefully, we'll be prepared for visitors!  We had a bit of a late start and I was still in the shower when the first couple came knocking and David was in the shower for the next couple! Such is life on the road. Where there's not much room to hide! 

The sunset that night was spectacular...

I love the way the swirl of the clouds mirrors the sweep of the branches; it's like the tree is painting the colours across the sky.

And today we've shifted again, we're now parked at a NZMCA CAP in Koromiko, which is just a short 8kms from Picton and a 3 hour ferry ride to some winter warmth! Now that was a surprise wasn't it? 

We're heading back to the North Island for a couple of months, to catch up with family and friends. We're a couple of months ahead of our original schedule but decided we'd visit over winter and come back south in early spring when nature will be all bright and breezy and hopefully the weather will be a little more settled. 

See you on the other side.