Quailburn Station- Upper Waitaki, North Otago

Catch-up

After our disappointment walking to the Wairepo Kettleholes and finding them dry, we carried on up the valley to the end of the road, and into the Ahuriri Conservation Park. Which was once Quailburn Station, which in turn, was once part of a vast property known as Benmore Run, one of the largest properties in Otago during the 1870s.

All that remains of the Quailburn Station are the old woolshed, sheep dip, some holding yards and the abandoned homestead.

The woolshed had taking a beating from severe winds in October (we were there in December) and the side holding shed's roof has collapsed.

Built around 1920, the woolshed was still in use in the mid 1990s. There's a photo shown on one of the information boards of the NZ Champion Blade Shearer shearing in Quailburn in 1996. Perhaps it was a special occasion as the woolshed certainly looked like it had been abandoned alot longer than 20 years ago.

The interpretation boards certainly talked of a tough life on Benmore Station, a run that had was over 200,000 acres and held more than 80,000 sheep and then later on the smaller Quailburn Station. Quailburn was named after the native quail that lived here but in fact they were extinct by the time Quailburn started, sheep competed for their feed and they also were a meal for the locals.

If only walls could talk....the interior of the woolshed is fast deteriorating but you can still see the lanolin stained gates and rails and the odd clump of daggy wool in the corners. An old horse buggy seat sits on the floor covered in nest material and bird poop.

You might have noticed the large old beech tree behind the woolshed in one of the photos above. The tree has certainly seen better days but wrapped around the branches at the top of the trunk was beautiful flowering NZ mistletoe. You'll remember we saw quite a number of these rare plants growing in the beech forests alongside Lake Ohau.

Nearby was the old sheep dip; a round concrete pool that would have been full of water and dip (containing pesticides), the sheep were 'helped' down the ramp into the pool, a few at a time, dunked with a shepherds pole and swirled around, or made to swim around, and then clamber out again, all done and dipped for another few months. Oh the indignity.

Up  behind the woolshed we found a large flat platform that looked like a building had once stood here with it's grand view out over the valley below. 

There were a few bits and pieces (pipe, concrete block) lying around and an overgrown garden lily of some sort(not native) that suggested this, but I couldn't find any information confirming a building once stood there.  Perhaps it was the Benmore Station homestead, the site certainly suggesting that this would have been an ideal spot for a grand homestead.

It was in total contrast to the little house we found in the trees over to the side; the old and abandoned Quailburn 'homestead'. 

At first we thought it must be one of the farm huts, but on further investigation I can confirm it was the old Quailburn homestead.

The front door had been padlocked at some stage but somebody had kicked in the front door panel and we were able to step through into the abandoned & slightly spooky interior. The wood and tiled mantle pieces above the coal range & fireplace were still intact, scrim and wallpaper hung off the walls and water stains covered the ceilings. Old lino still covered the small kitchen floor and a food safe was accessible via it's door in the wall. 

Branches piled up beside the fire place and ashes in the grate indicated that hunters or trampers have been using the house as a shelter. It's a miracle it's still standing and hasn't accidentally (or on purpose)  been burnt to the ground. The food safe can be seen hanging off the back of the house here.

There are a number of tramping tracks that leave from the top of the valley; the wind that caused some of the woolshed to collapse must have brought down many of the beech trees in the forest, these were just at the beginning of the track.

It was time to head back down the valley, with just enough time to stop and capture two of my favourite subjects....

...those ever present lupins and an old house!

Which had a 'Private Property' sign to stop me in my tracks. Quailburn Road is on the Alps2Ocean Cycle trail and I'm thinking there have been a few too many people stopping to take a look. Oh well, from the gate is fine with me.

Then it's home down the long and winding road.

Teddy Bear & a Road Trip

We’ve just arrived back in Winton after a very busy few days catching up with family in Dunedin. I have plenty to tell you about but unfortunately once again you’ll have to wait until I catch up to-date, which, at the rate that is happening, will be sometime mid year!  I mean, for goodness sake, I haven’t even got to last Christmas yet. We need to stop doing things and I need to stop taking photos- I also need a solid couple of weeks to do totally blog business and nothing else. Like that’s going happen anytime soon. Not.

Here's us parked up at a busy  NZMCA Park in downtown Dunedin - we had great weather except
 for the wet and stormy hour that passed just before I took this shot. 

And it’s about now that I need to tell you that this is likely to be my last blog post for a couple of weeks. For two reasons (actually three). 1- we are heading to Stewart Island for a break and it’s likely to be a very busy time, 2- my laptop is being sent away to finally (and hopefully) have a fault sorted, and number 3- I broke my phone in Dunedin. Don’t ask, but I blame my sister and a ‘Premier Margarita’  for that!

So here is another catch-up blog from our time parked up at Lake Ruataniwha in the Mackenzie Country.

If you have been following the blog for some time you’ll know that I’ve been chasing(literally) a close up photo of the hares that we keep seeing racing off around the countryside. And you’ll also know that I’ve taken to calling them ‘teddy bears’ because of this post.

Well, in the end I didn’t need to chase a hare, he came bounding along the track towards me. He stopping so close to the front of the ute that I couldn’t get him totally in the frame for a minute. And that’s when we saw why he was unaware of the danger he could have been in. This poor old boy was a bit moth-eaten, he only had one eye and I suspect he couldn’t see much out his other one either.

He sat there for a moment, twitching his nose before deciding there must be trouble ahead…

…and bounded off up the hillside, stopping to recheck his surroundings for a second before disappearing over the top. I felt rather sorry for him and wondered how long he would last.

In the pond beside the track the hare approached us on, there were also some ‘ugly ducklings’- these are baby Australian Coots (slightly blurred I wasn’t ready for them) and they have got to be the ugliest babies I think I have ever seen.

It’s no wonder the parents hide them under the rushes and they scatter when disturbed. Poor darlings, but at least they grow into something more acceptable.

We left Kelland Pond behind and headed south down the main highway turning right into Lake Ohau Road. Thousands of people pass this sign daily on their way to and from Christchurch & Queenstown and I wonder how many think ‘what’s down there’ or ‘I must have a look down that road some day’.

Today it’s our turn to explore it. Our target was to at least get to an ‘historic stone cottage’ we saw marked on one of our maps.

It’s not long before the stunning and beautiful turquoise Lake Ohau comes into view…

…with the prominent & huge monolith Ben Ohau (1522m) standing proud across the water. There’s a dam on the far right of Ben Ohau , it’s the first dam of the Ohau A, B, and C hydroelectricity canal system and downstream (or should that be downcanal) is Lake Ruataniwha. Actually there is still an Ohau River which flows beside the canal and empties into the lake too, but it’s at a much lighter flow than it used to be.

It was a surprise to find a historic site beside the road- this is the remains of a controversial boundary fence and spade line between Canterbury & Otago. The boundary line was drawn using a ruler, it didn’t allow for natural features or the rights of established runholders.

Click on the photo to enlarge if you’d like to read more about it. We could faintly see the spade line, a depression in the ground, off in the distance.

The road skirted around the edge of the lake and another much smaller lake came into view, well actually it’s more of a puddle in comparison to Lake Ohau. This is Lake Middleton and it looks like it’s used a lot for water sports and fishing. There’s a basic DOC camping ground along the water edge and although it’s rather sloped, there are a few flat areas in amongst the trees. There’s also a couple of closed-up caravans parked on the best sites, ready for the holiday season I would think. At the far end of the lake there’s a huge house(top left photo) which looks to have been recently built, we passed it’s pillared gates and large barn/shed at the beginning of the lake. It looks totally out of place and I wonder who owns it, somebody rich &/or famous perhaps…

The campground extends to the other side of the road where there are leveller camping areas and amazing views across Lake Ohau to Ben Ohau. A basic amenity block is also on this side of the road.

We take a side road up onto a small plateau and into the alpine village of Lake Ohau. It’s small and consists of mostly holiday homes and a few permanent residences. We stop at a tiny reserve with a huge table to have lunch and David decides this could quite easily be the place to retire to if we ever stop wandering (he might have second thoughts on a less than perfect day of course).

We’re high above the road and looking down the lake towards the Southern Alps and the views are magnificent- here’s a slightly distorted pano from my phone.

Our next side road detour takes us to the beginning of the Ohau Snow Fields road and the Ohau Lodge.

This photo, taken back at Lake Middleton, shows the 10km snow field access road zig-zagging up the side of the mountain. We decide to leave that road for another day; perhaps when there’s snow at the top.

We carry on around the lake edge, the road has now turned to gravel, and dips and climbs along the bottom of the steep slopes of the mountains beside us. There are a number of avalanche warning signs highlighting the very steep areas where snow builds up and slides off the mountainside onto the road below.

Further on and another DOC camp comes into view. This is our type of camp; remote, lakeside, bird life, boat ramp and scenery to die for. Roundbush also has big sandflies. I talk to a couple of tourists who are hiding out in their campervan, they’re not sure they’ll last the distance.

We continue on, the scenery is breathtaking and I wonder if it could get any better…

We’re getting near the top of the lake now and can see the wide open deltas of the Hopkins River to the left and the Dobson River to the right…

and the houses and farm buildings of Lake Ohau Station.

And one of those buildings happens to be the historic cottage we were looking for. Hmmm….I’m not too sure who was the most surprised, me or David. I don’t know why (because it is usually ruins) but we were both expecting to see a cutesy fully restored stone cottage. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.

We drove on past the station homestead, slowing to let the farmer and his wildly excited pack of noisy sheepdogs cross in front of us. The road continues on into the Ruataniwha Conservation Park where there are a number of tramping tracks. It’s rugged and remote and I’ve since heard the road has a few washouts in it. It’s 4WD country even if you can get through.

We stop at the Maitland Stream road bridge and decide this is as far as we’ll go today.  We scan the stream bed for birds, nothing.

But far across the otherside of the valley I spot a very long swathe of colour- hundreds of thousands of lupins. Lupins that are tracking up the valley towards the river sources and the mountains.

It’s about now that I realise actually how serious and widespread the lupin problem really is and will be, in the years to come, unless something drastic doesn’t happen soon (which is highly unlikely). Most people only see the lupins around the tourist hotspots and along the main roads but here they are, dozens of miles away and encroaching into conservation areas. Not only do our vulnerable high country river birds have to avoid introduced pests but they also have to compete with lupins taking over the open stony braided river bed habitats they need for breeding.

With that sobering thought in mind it’s time to head for home…

…and stop along the way to admire at least one successful conservation project- possum control has allowed the endemic mistletoe to survive and flower in the lakeside bush. In amongst the deep green of the Southern Beech trees there are dozens of bright splashes of brilliant red. This is the rare and beautiful New Zealand Mistletoe. Some of you will remember the photos I posted of the mistletoe in my Christmas blog post, this is where they came from. 

Here’s what I wrote about it then- ‘the name ‘mistletoe’ is given to plants that use specially adapted roots to extract water and nutrients from the stem tissues of their host plant. Unlike some mistletoe species found in other countries, New Zealand mistletoes usually do not harm their hosts. There are eight unique species of mistletoes in New Zealand, the three Beech mistletoes (Green, Red & Scarlet) are now uncommon in many parts of New Zealand.

One last close up photo of Ben Ohau. To give you an idea of how large it is, you can see a road running right along the bottom edge of the mountain. This is Glen Lyon Road and it’s another road we’ll need to explore sometime; it runs even further up the valley on the otherside of the lake (past those lupins) and on up the Dobson River.

Back onto the tarseal and home to Lake Ruataniwha…