Glacier Country- Franz Josef Glacier

Catch-up

Of course I couldn't do one without the other; so after completing the Fox Glacier walk, next on the agenda (after a few days rain) was Franz Josef Glacier,  which was just a short trip from the NZMCA Park, through the Franz Josef village...

...across the Waiho River bailey bridge, turn hard left...

...and up the access road for about 4kms, to another large carpark. Which is rather busy, probably due to the previous few days incessant rain and because Fox Glacier has been closed for a few days (due to flooding & a large rock fall). There's a tantalizing glimpse of the glacier from the car park this time, although that disappears as soon as I step onto the path.

The cardboard ranger is on duty once again and today he's telling me that I can get to within 750mtrs of the glacier and it'll be a 5.4km, 1 hour 30min, return walk. 

The first kilometre of  the well formed track passes through beautiful regenerating rainforest.

The soothing sound of a babbling stream accompanies me through the bush and in the distance I can hear the rumble of a large waterfall. The glacier comes back into view...

...and so does the source of the rumble. The track narrows and this looks to be a fairly new route as we skirt around the edge of  small mound. Trees close to the path have been trimmed, chopped or pushed over the edge out of the way.

Around the next bend is a major wash out and the old path disappears over the edge of a very large rock slide into the river below. This happened back in March when 158mm of rain fell over 24hrs. Further downstream the river burst through the stopbank and flooded one of the hotels just north of the village.

Once past the new section, the track opens up and there's a clear view up the valley to the glacier. This is where those that are less nimble can walk to for a view, after which the track drops down into the river bed, crosses a side stream and weaves up the valley.

The source of the side stream are the very impressive Trident Falls which are tucked around the rock wall on the right in the above photo.

I don't have my tripod with me but manage to take a few reasonable slow shutter-speed shots to smooth the water.

The track now officially becomes a 'route', where marker posts mark the way and can change depending on what's happening to the surrounding environment. Although it still looks like a track to me. 

Far across the river I can see two swingbridges, I've zoomed in on them here but they are hardly visible from where I'm standing. They're on the Roberts Point Track, a 12.5km return tramping track for experienced and well equipped trampers, that ends high above the glacier. Just like Fox, there are plenty of warning signs about the track, a handful of tourists have lost their lives on it; either slipping down sheer rock walls or trying to take a short cut across the river.

The Waiho River is flowing fast after the recent rain; there's a person on the track ahead of me to give you some perspective.

Looking downstream, with a peep of the Trident Falls on the point.

You may have noticed that there are no photos of David ahead of, or behind me today. That's because I'm doing the walk by myself, he decided to have the day off. So I had to find myself a new subject to include in the shots and luckily this guy obliged. He didn't know it of course but I'm sure he wouldn't have minded.

And I'm always happy to include others when they helpfully appeared in frame just as I click...

The track wound it's way up...

...and down piles of rock and sediment left behind by the glacier as it's retreated.

I thought the most amazing sight, other than the glacier itself, was the huge block of ice covered in moraine...

...on the edge of the track and left behind by the retreating glacier. Slowly, slowly disappearing into the rubble.

Finally I reach the lookout where the huge terminal face of Franz Josef Glacier towers over us. Remember, it's still 750 metres away. The river flows from the terminal face through some deep scars in the rocky valley and is also joined by numerous waterfalls cascading down the vertical rock walls.

Franz Josef Glacier, at 12kms long, is just 1km shorter than Fox Glacier and is fed by a 20 square kilometre nevé (snow accumulation area), while Fox's nevé, you'll remember, is a massive 36 square kilometres.

And there's that ranger again, he does get around.

These signs are at the beginning of both the glacier walks- they obviously had a few complaints and I can see why. The constant sound of helicopters passing high overhead distracts from the spectacular and relatively peaceful landscape even though they're not that loud, more like an annoying mosquito buzzing in your ear. But it's a means to an end and many visitors enjoy the close up experience of flying over and walking on the glacier. It's also the reason drones are banned from the glacier valleys.

I did enjoy watching the helicopters fly in though and they did look just like tiny mosquitoes. This should give you an idea of how big the glacier is. That's the helicopter flying in from the right- (remember to click on the photos to enlarge)

Little red dot- centre right (now that's a wow moment, isn't it?)

I kept thinking it was surely going to hit the glacier as it moved in...

...for a closer look (both them and me)...

And then landed on the glacier where it disappeared out of sight for perhaps two minutes...

...before rising, sweeping across the rock face, up, off and out to the left...

...to be replaced by another helicopter that either came in from the back of the glacier like this one, or followed the same route as the previous one, up the valley. A 20 minute flight, with snow landing, will set you back a cool $235 per person! There are various other longer options available, with prices to suit of course.

Cloud started to roll in over the top of the surrounding mountains and the glacier...

...and it was time to head back down the valley.

Cloud was filling the glacier valley as I passed the last lookout (or first, depending on which way you're heading). And by the time I reached the carpark, the glacier had totally disappeared. Those people that I passed, heading up the track, would have been out of luck and wondering at what they missed. Such is the fickle nature of this alpine environment.

Now which glacier would you visit if you only have time to walk to one? It's a question often asked on a travel forum I frequent. I'm afraid I can't choose one over the other, they are both stunning walks through some magnificent scenery to view two very impressive glaciers. You decide.

Birding Bonanza, Stewart Island- Part 2

Continued...on from Part 1

One tour we definitely wanted to do while on Stewart Island was the night tour to see Kiwi in the wild. This would be our first sighting of a wild kiwi. We have spoken to many tourists on our travels who casually mention that they hope to see a kiwi in the wild while they're travelling. They are often a little taken aback when I tell them that probably 99% of New Zealanders wouldn't have seen a kiwi in the wild. 

"How can that be?" they ask, "The country revolves around the kiwi symbol, everywhere you look there are kiwi photos, souvenirs, signs, postcards and tours etc, even the people are known as kiwis" 

"Well..." I say, " that's just how it is, there are kiwi out there, they're not in great numbers but they are there, we often hear them calling at night when parked in isolated bush areas. But they are elusive and being nocturnal you'd normally be in bed when they come out to feed." Most still think they'll see one if they look hard.

And here on Stewart Island there is a chance you may see them during the day. Kiwi have been often seen on some of the more isolated beaches, down on the strand line looking for their favourite sandhoppers amongst the seaweed & floatsam. We also heard that they've been spotted occasionally near the paths on Ulva Island during the day. We decided we weren't going to chance it, even though we still carefully hunted for a kiwi when we were on Ulva, David did find kiwi footprints along one of the beaches. Personally I think many of sightings are of a weka bum disappearing into the bush; a rear end easily confused for a kiwi.

I'd booked a very popular kiwi spotting tour a month or so ago with Phillip Smith of Bravo Adventure Tours; for the 2nd night of our visit. I figured if it was cancelled we'd still have seven nights up our sleeve to do the tour. Which was just as well because after the rain and then the gale force wind, it was four nights before we finally got the go-ahead to meet at the Halfmoon Bay wharf for our tour. I felt sorry for a number of people we met who were only on Stewart Island for a night or two and missed the tour altogether. 

As the light faded, and a rain shower passed overhead, we boarded Wildfire along with eleven other people, all wrapped up warm, and headed out into the bay.

A White-capped Albatross which had followed a fishing boat in, turned and headed back out with us. This was the first close up encounter we'd had with the albatross. What magnificent creatures they are, stunningly beautiful and so sleek. It was a pity night was falling as I couldn't take too many photos of them as they whirled and swooped around the boat ever so gracefully.

We left Halfmoon Bay, rounded Ackers Point and headed into Paterson Inlet. Forty minutes later we sailed into Big Glory Bay, arriving at a jetty on a pitch-black night. 

Phillip gave a detailed talk on the various facts about the Stewart Island Brown Kiwi- Stewart Island is the only place in New Zealand where kiwis aren't considered endangered, it's thought there's a population of around 18,000 birds on the island. Stewart Island kiwis are quite different from their mainland relatives. They are diurnal, feeding during both the day and night, they also have a different family dynamic- the males share incubation and chicks stay with their parents for up to two years, much longer than on the mainland.

Greg, a crew member, hands out torches and tells us what to expect on our walk through the bush and over to the other side of the peninsula where hopefully we'll see some kiwi. Of course nothing is guaranteed but in over 26 years of doing these tours there has only been a handful of nights without a sighting. We're told in a firm voice that there are three rules- "No talking, no flash photography & no getting closer than I am to the birds". 

We scramble up off the jetty onto a narrow and muddy path and stride off quickly, following Greg single file through the bush, our torch lights showing the way. A quiet knock on low overhanging trees is fed back through the group to warn not to hit your head. We've been warned we might come across a sealion along the path but thankfully there are none camping in the bush tonight. We're heading to an ocean beach and very soon we can hear the pounding surf. We leave the muddy track behind and walk the final 250 metres along a boardwalk that has sunk into water in a few places. 

We finally reach the beach where we gather together to hear the plan. From now on there are to be no flashlights and definitely no talking, we're to stick close and follow Greg as he walks along the high tide line sweeping across the sand, back and forward, with his torch. A few minutes later Greg zeros in on some movement in the distance. A murmur goes up and then a quiet shhhhh as we creep in closer to see a curious looking creature shuffling about in the seaweed.

This is what we've come to see. A real live wild kiwi! Looking considerably smaller in the wide open space than her captive cousins, this is in fact, one of the larger kiwi species. Greg tells us later when we're out of her earshot that this is the matriarch of the family group whose territory takes in the beach. We followed her as she poked and prodded her way along the beach, stopping occasionally to snort the sand out of her nostrils (which are located at the end of her bill). 

After a few minutes Greg indicated we were heading off again further up the beach. We must have looked a funny sight, a silhouetted group of people huddled in close, striding it out, following a small circle of light along the sand. It felt like we were being route-marched along the beach; the sand was soft and tough to walk in and Greg walked fast; everyone wanted to get up close in case another kiwi was spotted and we were also wary there might be a sealion sleeping just outside the circle of light. Up to the top of the beach we marched and then back down again. Greg found a set of footprints and we tracked them to another kiwi.

This is another female and likely the matriarch's last year's chick. We watch her for a short while; she seems to be more aware of our presence and we don't want to scare her off. Time is up and we head back to the boardwalk entrance and as we re-group we hear a male kiwi calling from the nearby bush followed by a female returning the call. What a great way to finish the night.

You'll recall that no flash photography was allowed and all that is lighting the scene is one small torchlight from around 10 metres away, and all the while the bird is moving. I won't tell you how many shots I took (actually not too many; the shutter noise sounded like a machine gun going off in the quiet stillness) but just consider yourselves very lucky to see these two of the kiwi. Especially when the others on board who had cameras failed to get anything but a black square or a dark brown blur. It sure was a tough assignment. But at least I have the evidence and I knew what to expect. I was just thrilled to have finally had the privilege of seeing our treasured national icon in the wild.

We traipsed back along the path, hoping we might still see another kiwi, we were told they sometimes feed along the track. It was quite ironic, but all we saw (the first three people in the line including me) was a possum scurrying off into the bush. The French lady behind me couldn't believe she missed seeing her first possum.

Skipper Phillip was waiting back on board with welcome cups of tea and coffee. The boat headed off into the inky blackness, it's passengers buzzing with excitement inside, while Greg took a break out the back.

Another bird ticked!

To be continued....Part 3

Baby Dolls & Wine

We left the beautiful Maniototo heading north to the top of the South Island. Here are the blogs I posted along the way, in case you missed them or want to refresh your memory, just click on the links.

First stop was Kakanui village where we parked on the edge of a cliff overlooking All Day Bay.

Next was the intriguing sounding Waihao Box.

Then onwards and upwards along the rugged Pacific Coast with a stop at Kaikoura and a catch up with those endearing inhabitants, the NZ fur seal, followed by a stop at one of our favourites camp sites, Ward Beach. And then it was just a short haul to another favourite; the DOC Camp at Marfells Beach.

Where the weather was sublime and we awoke to this gorgeous golden orb rising in the east each morning. 

Well, I awoke, his Highness slept on. David is not a morning person. Mornings are the best for me, I could take all my photos for the day in the first hour and be done and happy. It’s not known as the golden hour for nothing. Soft warm light and limited shadows enhance even the most mundane subjects. I’ve been a little slack over winter, staying up late to type my blogs (you guys are to blame) and not getting up in time to catch the golden hour which actually, down south during winter, doesn’t happen until what seems like mid morning anyway! Although I think I have an even more reasonable excuse; the minus 5 to minus 12c degree temperatures we were waking up to. I can tell you it positively felt like summer in Marlborough!

While at Marfells Beach we visited a nearby winery & vineyard. This isn’t just any winery and believe me there are dozens of fabulous wineries in the world-famous Marlborough region. Yealands’ Seaview Vineyard is located in the Awatere Valley just a short distance from the small settlement of Seddon, it stretches from the foothills of the Kaikoura Ranges to the cliff tops overlooking Clifford Bay & Cook Strait.

Peter Yealands is a man on a mission and a man with great vision, he’s also a pioneering entrepreneur. The Awatere Valley was originally thought unsuitable for grape growing. Peter Yealands thought differently; working the land, often by himself, he re-contoured it, filled ravines, smoothed gullies, terraced hills and planted a wide range of grapes.

At 1500ha (3,705 acres), Peter Yealands turned the rugged pastoral land into the single largest privately owned vineyard in New Zealand and the first winery in the world to be certified as carboNZero. His vision is to have Seaview Vineyard become the world’s most sustainable wine producer.

Much earlier and well before grapes, Peter saw the potential to farm Greenshell mussels and in 1971 was issued with New Zealand’s first marine farm license. Thanks to his innovative design technologies and helping establish aquaculture in the region, marine farming now contributes $160 million to NZ’s export earnings. In the 1980s Peter also established one of NZ’s most successful deer farms, a 2,000 hectare property in Kaiuma Bay in the Marlborough Sounds.

Peter now concentrates on the vineyard and with each year, Yealands grows closer to its goal of becoming self-sufficient and carbon negative.

Our first sign that this vineyard is different to others are the large vine pruning bales that are dotted throughout the rows of bare vines near the entrance to the vineyard. Ten percent of the vineyard is baled up and left to dry for 6 months. Purpose built burners (designed by Peter of course) turns vine prunings into a heat source for the winery’s water & glycol. One bale weights around 200kgs and when burned, provides the equivalent heat of approximately 60kg of LPG.  At full capacity the burners can produce 500kW of energy, enough to keep the average Kiwi household going for three weeks!  This process eliminates over 180 tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions (CO2) per year.

After a video presentation, wine tasting and some carefully selected purchases we headed out on the White Road Tour, a 3km self-drive tour around the vineyard and one of the main reasons I was keen to visit this winery. It’s not often you get to see behind the scenes and also see some of the sustainability projects in situ.

Our information brochure & tour map told us to make allowances for wild birds, peacocks, chickens & ducks- they have right of way at all times and to be careful not to run them over as they settle beneath parked cars. There was just the one over friendly rooster who came running from his chook-house, he’d lost his harem somewhere or a rival had whisked them off to one of the other houses (probably ones with a better views). The chickens free range and help keep grass grubs and weta at bay, their coops are moved around the vineyard depending on where they are needed.

In all directions and as far as the eye can see- Yealands Estate Vineyard.

Along with the chickens there’s a natural grass mowing community too; Kune-Kune pigs (hiding during our visit) &  Babydoll Sheep, a minature breed with a cute teddy-bear face, both are too short to reach the grapes, although the sheep didn’t look too short to me. Babydoll? A cute name but I can’t quite marry the two together- baby doll & sheep just don’t seem right together.

And it was nice to see sheep that weren’t interested in what we were doing, no chasing us along the track or racing across a paddock to see if we had any food for them; just well fed contented Babydoll Sheep sleeping amongst the vines.

Mt Tapuae-O-Uenuku is the highest peak in the northeast of the South Island and is New Zealand’s highest mountain outside the main ranges of the Southern Alps. At 2,885 metres (9,465ft) it is over 80 metres taller than the higest peak in the North Island.

Along the way we pass the Marc Pad, an area where all the grape skins (marc) are collected during harvest. This area is where the organic compost is produced; over 10,000 tons annually.

We stop at Lookout Point, where you are free to rest awhile, take in the views or have a picnic lunch….if you have brought it with you. I’m not sure why, but we didn’t have our usual thermos, soup and sandwich with us this day. I think I was hoping for some sort of lunch platter from the Cellar Door but it has no restaurant/cafe unlike many wineries.

We walk out to the edge overlooking Clifford Bay and the views are spectacular. Far across the bay we can see the Cape Campbell lighthouse  and back towards the curve in the first clump of trees on the shoreline we see Marfells Beach where we’re camped. Lake Grassmere (the salt lakes) is further right, hidden in the gap between the cliff faces (remember to click on the photos to enlarge).

And in that clump of trees, and through the camera lens, I can see ‘Out There” parked up along with a couple of motorhomes and a caravan- we’re the first in the trees on the right.

In the other direction Clifford Bay runs into Cloudy Bay (a very famous name in wines) and on towards Port Underwood and Cook Strait with the North Island on the far right horizon.

A spidery web of wires weaves its way across the soft contours to the heart of the vineyard, Yealands Winery & Cellar Door.

There was no music playing while we were there, I think the vines are in hibernation mode. Perhaps with spring the hills will come alive to the sound of music. The suggested website is very interesting; if you want to while away a few hours click on the link and see!

We followed the White Road away from Lookout Point, these vines have recently been pruned, the prunings yet to be collected.

More Babydolls and more wires. Most of the sheep seemed to be resting towards the ends of rows but I did watch a few sheep barge their way through the wires to reach their mates in the middle of the next row, I guess it’s a long walk to the end. They wouldn’t want to be doing that when the vines are in bud or with grapes on board. Perhaps it’s more of a barrier when they’re coated in green.

Twin Lakes, the largest wetland on the vineyard, holds 150,000 cubic metres of water and is another area where the public are welcome to stop for a picnic or rest. There are over 25 strategically placed wetland areas around the vineyard which capture water run-off, slowly releasing it back into the soil over the long hot dry months.

Around the lakes are solar lights which attract nuisance insects that eat the leaves of the vines. the bugs are attracted by the lights and some end up in the water much to the enjoyment of the trout.

Further on up the road we’re accosted by those over-friendly chickens we were warned about, and this time they chase along after us for quite a distance- chickens in sheep’s clothing perhaps?

As we approach the rear of the winery we can see dozens of plastic tanks, 70 plus mist green 25,000 litre tanks to be exact. Just like the ones we used to sell many moons ago.

These aren’t Devan Tanks though, they belong to an opposition manufacturer. My eyes light up, what an order that would have been. Mind you, I bet they had to well and truly sharpen their pencil to secure the deal. The silver wrap is obviously some sort of insulation to keep the contents cool.

How’s this for a bank of solar panels? The northern side of the winery roof has one of NZ’s largest solar panel installations. The panels produce 133,000 kW per year – enough to power 17 average New Zealand households for a year, and Shellie’s laptop for a decade plus!

The coastal wind is put to good use too. Two traditional wind turbines and a horizontal axis wind turbine generate extra power for use in the winery. These turbines produce approximately 75,000 kWh of energy. Eventually Yealands hopes to supply surplus power back to the national grid.

The stunning & impressive Yealands Estate Winery building was designed to blend into the landscape with no disruptive contours- although I’m not sure that blend is the right word, it’s a pretty big building. I doubt anything that size could ‘blend’. Rainfall is either recycled or piped to the wetlands and inside the building, motion sensors control lighting and air conditioning (ensuring neither is left on needlessly) and extensive insulation and heat recovery technologies reduce heat loss and recycle energy for re-use.

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Yealands and learning much about the company’s self-sufficiency and sustainability. I think the ‘behind-the-scene’ White Road Tour experience is a touch of genius, include and inspire your audience (and they might just continue to buy your product long after their visit).