Friday, February 21

Athol in the Valley

Athol is a sleepy little settlement nestled in a sheltered valley between the Eyre & Hector Mountains  on SH6 & located half way between Lumsden & Queenstown. I imagine it would have been a busy rest stop in times past but now with faster cars & better roads it looks like the traffic tends to cruise straight on through heading for the popular tourist destinations in either direction. Even the cute little two roomed school is now closed.


We're parked up at the Athol Lodge & Holiday Park which, as we've found with past properties, is a rather grand name for a lovely small, tranquil & well established, campground tacked onto a farm. We have glorious views over a sheep paddock past the trees lining a river to the range behind us including one of the three Domes, Middle Dome.

There are just six powered sites, each with their own "ensuite", toilet & shower. What a great idea, no distance to walk, your own bathroom that you know no one else has used & easy to clean for the owners. There are plenty of non powered sites down past the laundry too (complimentary cold wash & drier available). There is also a  "Lodge" further down the property. This is another area well known for trout fishing & we've already met a number of overseas people who have come here just to fish.


Of course the first thing we had to do was check out the river. Luckily there is an anglers access track right beside the camp ground as there are also plenty of signs elsewhere saying "NO TRESPASS, NO ANGLERS ACCESS", the farmers in the area have obviously had enough of fishermen leaving gates open or disturbing stock & crops.
The river is running low, it was crystal clear & ice blue with plenty of deeper pools & a few rapids. Within minutes David had found plenty of big fat brown trout feeding off the back of the under water debris as we walked up stream and swimming around in various pools.


David making his way up stream looking for trout.


The trout are obviously line shy though as so far he hasn't managed to hook any. An American guy who is staying in the camp ground, & has been coming here for the last 8 years, said they all would have been caught a few times over. He gave us a few other streams to try but I don't think we'll get there this trip. Still it's been great stalking them with rod & camera!


The valley is surrounded with high country sheep stations, most of the side roads lead to more stations further inland. Along the valley are plenty of barley & wheat crops just about ready to harvest along with swede & brassica crops for the stock. Rain is desperately needed in this area, just not until after tomorrow.



Shearing was happening on many of the farms that we passed, these merinos have been brought down from the high country & were waiting for their turn in the woolshed. Merinos with their dirty grey wool & cute faces stand out amongst the other  "fluffy white" sheep paddocks. They have the unusual habit of grouping together, heads to the centre, to keep cool. It was a stinking hot day and there were trees on the boundary but most of them were gathered in little groups around the paddock.


We went for a drive around the area & down a few of the side roads, David looking for other streams & me looking for old woolsheds & abandoned buildings to shoot, of which there were plenty.



This is the range that we can see from our campsite, part of Middle Dome & also Nokomai Station. Nokomai Station is the station where we are going tomorrow on the "Hidden Valley" 4WD Safari. Nokomai Station Road runs along the base of these "hills" and we'll be following the river and the road 10kms in to the meeting area. We already have some of the 4WD lingo sussed, apparently we're driving a "shiny"- hopefully it will still be shiny when we come out, well at least have not much more than a squirt of water will wash off! And according to a fellow camper who is going on the 4WD trip too (he has a mean machine with 2 inch thick ropes & chains onboard along with other 4WD paraphernalia ), this will be a "shiny" trip- easy! :) We'll let you know.







Wednesday, February 19

Especially for Dad


....and Pam and Trish & Len and Rodger & Heather and Gladys and everyone else that plays golf & has been waiting to see if we were just taking the clubs along for ballast. We finally dusted (literally) them off and played a round of golf at the Lumsden Golf Course this afternoon.
 
 
When we decided to have a game this morning it was cool, grey & misty, by the time we got to the course early this afternoon it was blue sky, beating sun, and a scorcher of a day! We didn't plan that very well, we could have decided to have our first away game on a nicer course (we've seen plenty) & a cooler day (we've had plenty of those too!).  Lumsden is a very uninteresting flat up & down 9 hole course with plenty of trees & very dry fairways. We were the only silly buggers on it and we both started with a hiss & a roar but faded on the home straight, the heat was unbearable as were my golf shoes on my sore feet. All things considered we both had a few really good holes, some average ones & a couple we'd both rather forget; so that would be......the usual game of golf!
 

The highlight was back in the carpark, in the tree just above our ute. I wonder how many of you know what this is?


This is a black phase fantail & what a sweet little bird he(or she) was. Black fantails are not that common and are mostly found in the South Island, they are virtually non-existent in the North Island. This would be about the 7th or 8th one I've seen down here but all the others haven't waited around for me to take a photo. This little guy was more than happy to pose, I had my arm outstretched to within a foot or two of him & he didn't move for ages and then when he did, he flitted closer still. Unfortunately I only had my cell phone to snap him. I may just have to go back there tomorrow with my camera and try for some better ones.

We were so hot after golf we decided to go for a swim at the stream where David had been fishing. The water was just as cold as the other day but it was so refreshing. I've always preferred river (or stream) swimming to the beach, especially with it being so crystal clear on a shingle base; no sand or salt just ice cold fresh water.

Those brown trout were still taunting us too, we had a swim in the pool right beside their patch & they continued to swim in and out of the flow right beside us! Trout would usually hide away under the fallen logs until we were downstream or out of sight. Not them. One of them was a monster too.

On the way back home we stopped so I could get this shot of the Oreti River looking west towards Fiordland. We feel like we have a connection with the Oreti, the river flows south to Invercargill & it's mouth is beside Sandy Point, a recreation area where we went with the family & by ourselves walking & bird watching.


And one more photo from Lumsden, this is the local hotel with it's fabulous paint job. Originally named the Railway Hotel it was built in the early 1900s, it had 27 rooms, including 19 bedrooms, 4 sitting rooms, 2 dining rooms & a billiard room. The hotel stables had 20 stalls and the owner ran two coaches a week from Lumsden to Lake Manapouri via Te Anau. Lumsden was once the centre point for travellers, gold prospectors & drovers alike.


Well that's it for Lumsden, we move on tomorrow. We have actually been here longer than we intended but we've been waiting for the weekend to arrive. David saw a flyer back in Mandeville advertising a fundraising self drive 4WD safari through the private Nokomai Station. We've booked for it and are moving up to Athol tomorrow so we're closer to the starting point. It's a day long drive through the station and we exit near the Nevis, where there is a well known public 4WD crossing which we'll probably do when we get to the Queenstown area.

It's going to be a great day, apparently the views are amazing so lets hope the weather stays fine. The organisers Oked our Ute but suggested we put some weight in the tray, they didn't know about the fifth-wheel assembly & the deflated inflatable which will give us 100kgs extra. All diesel vehicles must have a spark arrestor fitted- on most new vehicles it's standard- they don't want us setting fire to the tussock. We also have to sign away our life, carry a first aid kit, a fire extinguisher & have suitable tyres, so this isn't just going to be any ordinary drive in the park!

I'm not sure when I'll be able to post again, I think we'll be away from cell phone reception but I'll have a post ready to go as soon as I can with photos of course!

"Out There" doing it.


Tuesday, February 18

Fishing in Lumsden

Here we are parked up at NZMCA Lumsden site, which is quite busy most nights, on Sunday there were 14 vans staying overnight. Lumsden is obviously a good stop off point for people heading into or returning from Fiordland or travelling to or from Queenstown or west from Dunedin & the Catlins as we are. There are many NZMCA sites around New Zealand and joining the association is made all the more worthwhile having these convenient sites to stay at for minimal cost.


We've been here the last few days while David has been trying his luck fishing both in the Oreti River which is just behind the site & another smaller stream on the Queenstown road. The Oreti looks very much like the Hawkes Bay rivers we're both used too & especially like the Tuki Tuki; braided, shallow with a few deep pools, gravel & willows as far as you can see. The river wasn't that clear & no fish were spotted the evening he tried his luck there. David was keen to move onto the stream the next day.


We've also had the added distraction of my brand new (now 6 weeks old) super duper computer dying on me! I bought a lemon :(  Today I drove back down to Invercargill (160km round trip) to return it to the store. We have been dealing with the manufacturer & they have been great, all things considered.
The computer had been showing signs of failure for a few weeks & they said we could replace or get a refund, it was just a matter of how we could get it back to Invercargill. It had actually settled down for the past week & we thought maybe it'll be fine. But no last night while I was trying to write this blog it gave a few flickers and the screen went blank. It could not be revived.
So now I have to wait 3 weeks to get a new computer. Long story short; we are going into the wops (Mavora Lakes) for 2-3 weeks & the service department in Christchurch have to recover my data & put it onto the new computer which will take a week or so. I'm keen for them to do a good job that's not rushed, the hard drive has all my Catlins photos on it & silly me, I hadn't done a backup for a couple of weeks! After that we'll have to collect the new computer from Gore when we come out from the wops. These things happen I know but everything becomes doubly difficult when you're on the road. Thankfully David hadn't removed all my old data off this computer so I'm back to my old Sony for awhile sharing it with David along with the iPad.
Back to the fishing; this is the stream that David found when he went exploring. He had spotted three brown trout feeding in a pool and targeted these the afternoon that I joined him.


It was a scorching hot day, the water crystal clear & ice cold. It still looked very inviting though so I went for a walk to find a deep pool away from the fisherman & his trout to take a dip. It certainly was very brisk! But I felt so much cooler sitting reading my book in the shade afterwards.

The trout were not interested in any of the nymphs David presented, they were such a tease, you could see them as clear as anything. They'd swim out from under the trees into the flow, grab their food and then shoot back. I told David if he did catch any of them he'd have to release them as they were like friends in the end, evil friends taunting us. None were caught. Yet.


Looking down the stream towards The Peak which overlooks Lumsden.




Sunday, February 16

Wantwood Homestead

Wantwood Homestead- Historic Place Category 1

Just past the gravel road we took back through the Hokonui Hills to home I spied this very grand homestead set back off the road & up on a small plateau overlooking the Waimea Valley near Manderville.  I took some photos & assumed it would have a Historic Place category which I looked up when we got home. Sure enough it is a Category 1, along with it's old farm buildings. David was most disgusted with the farm buildings (see photos further down)  & the state of them; "They should burn them down, or remove them somehow, they're an eysore". I told him I bet they were historic which explains why they still stand.

Here is some of the listed information about Wantwood & the farm. I thought I'd do a separate post as I know some of you will find it interesting. I especially liked how the name came about- Wantwood was so-called because of the shortage of wood in the vicinity; bullock drivers had to carry their firewood for their first night journey, which led to the naming of the stopping place on the Run.

Wantwood Farm's stone homestead is a prominent landmark property sitting at the base of the Hokonui Range, and with its associated buildings (farm office, former cookshop/shearer's quarters and woolshed) it tells the story of one of the earliest and most significant pastoral properties in the district, associated with the New Zealand Agricultural Company, (this is the company that Flemings Mill was built for-see my previous post), and the contribution it made to farming in the Southland District.
                    

Wantwood has historical significance. The complex of buildings represents the early history of pastoralism in Southland, and in particular the pivotal significance of the New Zealand Agricultural Company in the development of the Southland Plains. The Wantwood Homestead itself, as the surviving Company manager's residence, with all the architectural style and grandeur befitting such an important position, represents the lifestyle associated with the Company, as the gentry of inland Southland, a significant period of the history of the region.

The Homestead

Wantwood has architectural significance. The house is an excellent example of a substantial stone Victorian Gothic residence, with its irregular silhouette, steeply pitched roof with finials at the gable-ends, prominent gables and contrasting quoins. The interior is notable, with its grand stair, generous landings, wall finishings, decorative fire surrounds, and its coloured glass detailing in the windows.

The substantial two-storey homestead is constructed of local stone, quarried from a site nearby. It is a dark stone, squared stone brought to course, with contrasting stone facings. The roof is corrugated iron, and the window joinery is timber.

The plan of the house shows a series of intersecting gables forming a cruciform shape. There are smaller decorative gables on the main wings of the house. All gables have finials at the gable ends. There is a return verandah on the principle north elevation, with entrances on both the ground and first floors. The main elevation has a faceted bay window with balcony above. The east elevation also has a faceted bay window on the ground floor. The windows are largely double hung sash.

The main entrance to the house is on the north elevation with a commanding view over the Waimea Plains. It has a four-panel timber door with sidelights. There is a substantial entrance hall. The wallpaper in the entrance hall is notable, possibly a block printed design, with plant foliage detailing, and accompanying frieze. Above the dado line is a more formally patterned paper.

On the right is the main formal parlour. It has a decorative fire surround. There are panelled ceilings with a central decorative ceiling rose. Further through the hall is the dining room. It has a decorative fire surround, with inset ceramic tiles and timber mantle. The wallpapers in this room are significant, block printed floral design with at least eight colours (indicating paper of quality, and may date from before the 1930s). The panels on the four panel door are painted in landscapes, apparently by a daughter of the one of the nineteenth century owners.

On the left of the hall is the main stair to the first floor of the house. This is an elegant stairway with a curved timber banister. There is a skylight above the stairwell, although its light source in the roof has been covered over. The upstairs landing features the same wallpaper as the main entrance hall, and also has a large picture window with etched and coloured glass.

The bedrooms are located upstairs. They have the original maid's bell callers in the bedrooms. The servants' accommodation was at the rear of the first floor, with maids' sitting room and bedroom on the east elevation.

Continuing through the ground floor hallway reaches what was originally the servants' area of the house. The back passage has a row of bells set high on the wall, forming the basis of the bell system that called servants to particular rooms, which is still operative. There is a servants' stair to the first floor, narrower and less decorative than the main stair. There is a informal sitting room at the rear of the house in what was the original kitchen space. The kitchen is located in what was the scullery. The other service areas of the house are located adjoining the kitchen, close to the rear entrance which is in the south elevation.


Woolshed (former, now largely disused)

The associated woolshed is also significant although in poor condition. The woolshed is a substantial timber structure, with the timber shingles and evidence of pit sawn timber indicating an 1860s construction date (with subsequent additions), providing insight into the building technology of the period, as well as representing the kind of technology and architecture associated with the wool industry.

The woolshed is a large single-storey timber structure. It is T-shaped in plan. The southern portion has a hipped roof which flares out at the bottom. There is evidence that it was constructed of pit sawn timber, and shingles are evident beneath the corrugated iron roof. The other section of the shed is formed by a single-gabled wing. It appears that this was constructed in stages, with the first portion added to be a slightly smaller gable at a later date. The interior of the hipped section of the building is divided into pens, and has a drag-across board with shearer's stations still evident. This part of the shed is in fragile condition with parts of the floor and the roof collapsing. The later section of the shed is largely filled with dags and is not divided into pens. The most northern part of that gable is used for storage, but it too is in a dilapidated condition.


Cookshop and Shearer's quarters (former)

The cookshop is an interesting example of the type of facility required to feed and house farm workers, although it is in poor condition.

The Cookshop and Shearer's quarters sit in a paddock to the west of the woolshed. This is a timber structure, single storey on the eastern end (cookshop), and double storey on the west (shearer's quarters). The shearer's quarters sits at right angles to the cookshop. The buildings look to have been constructed separately, with a series of additions creating the single connected structure.

The eastern portion of the cookshop is a single storey timber cottage, rectangular in plan. It has an external brick chimney breast and a small timber lean-to addition on the eastern elevation. It has two six-light sash windows and a ledger and brace door on the northern elevation. There is a single door on the south elevation, and no windows.

The adjoining portion of the cottage is of similar form, and has a single window in each of the north and south elevations, and no doors. There is internal access to the two storied portion from this section of the cookshop. There was an external chimney breast on the east elevation, but this has been enclosed by the shearer's quarters.

The shearer's quarters is a two-storey single gable structure, connected to the cookshop by an internal door. There are two doors and a small window opening on the eastern elevation. There is a small window opening on the first floor of the eastern elevation. The north elevation has window openings on the first and second floors. There are no windows on the east elevation.

The cookshop and shearer's quarters are in poor condition, in a state of partial collapse.


If you have any further interest I've included more information below from the Historic Places register on the history & importance Wantwood was to the Southland District, I find it all very fascinating even though this is pages long!

Wantwood reflects the history of large scale land development in nineteenth century Southland. The house, with its grand position and architectural style, show the importance owner George Meredith Bell attached to his position as a large land owner, and also a company official for the New Zealand Agricultural Company. Land companies played a particularly significant role in opening up European settlement in inland Southland and represent the period of initial European settlement and occupation by pastoralists, and the later subdivision and closer settlement which followed in the latter part of the nineteenth century. The failure of the New Zealand Agricultural Company and the selling of its estate also illustrates the flow on effects of the economic depression of the 1880s.

Wantwood has an association with the New Zealand Agricultural Company, the directors of which included a number of prominent men including William Larnach, Robert Stout and briefly, Julius Vogel. The Company, formed in 1878, played prominent role in the settlement of the Gore and Lumsden district, including financing a railway in the area. New Zealand Agricultural Company, along with others such as the New Zealand and Australian Land Company (also significant in the history of Southland), are central to the understanding of the developments in pastoralism in nineteenth century New Zealand. Wantwood was the centre of operations for the New Zealand Agricultural Company in Southland, and has a particular association with company manager George Meredith Bell.

The design of Wantwood homestead is significant. It is an excellent example of a substantial Victorian Gothic homestead styled as befitted the manager of a land company, and the centre of company operations.

In addition the woolshed shows considerable technical accomplishment. The large building is of pit sawn timber and is notable for its scale and design. While in poor condition the building is worth recording.

Historical Narrative-
Wantwood Farm is situated on the Waimea Plains, which lie between the townships of Lumsden in the north and Mandeville in the south in Southland. The Waimea Plains was on the route from the coast to the interior for Maori, and on the Plains about the junction of the Mataura and Waikaia Rivers, Roki and his people defeated northern chief Te Puoho in 1836.

The first European settlers in this inland district were the pastoralists, with the Alex McNab and Peter McKellar moving to the Waimea Plains in 1855. McKellar's Run 112, which became known as Longridge, covered a huge territory from the Snowy Mountains, to the Mataura River, and the Hokonui Range. In 1864 the run was divided into two (112 and 195). After John Turnbull Thomson's survey of the runs in 1857 there were further subdivisions.

It was not until the 1860s that permanent residences and farm buildings were erected by runholders. One of the first was Waimea House, erected by David McKellar. Waimea House was a substantial two-storied sixteen-roomed house of brick and local stone. It was built on a terrace overlooking the plains. McKellar sold the run and Waimea House to George Meredith Bell in 1867.

What became known as the Wantwood (or Otamita) Run, number 119A, was taken up by George Gunn in 1857. Wantwood was so-called because of the shortage of wood in the vicinity; bullock drivers had to carry their firewood for their first night journey, which led to the naming of the stopping place on the Run. There are several stories about Gunn's early living arrangements: one notes George Gunn's first residence, a small crib dug into the side of the Otamita Stream, was erected by 1861. He then built a hut on the banks of the stream where it left the gorge, and finally a weather board house near the site of the current stone house. Another notes that when Gunn took over Wantwood in 1862 the homestead was a single-storey building at the mouth of the Otamete [Otamita] Gorge on the Waimea side of the Otamita Stream (about five kilometres south of the current stone house). Gunn was inundated by travellers, presumably on their way to the goldfields, and built an accommodation house about a mile and a half east of the homestead.

Prominent Australian squatter Charles Fitzwilliam Wentworth, who had interests in many Southland runs, wanted to buy Wantwood for his brother-in-law Henry Hill. Gunn would not sell Wantwood until 1867 when Henry Hill came in as manager for the next seven years. Hill was well known throughout the province for his efforts in horse breeding, and his association with the Five Rivers Station.

According to pastoral run historian Herries Beattie (who interviewed early settler William Chubbin) the woolshed was built in 1865, with James and Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Paterson and William Chubbin engaged to saw timber for it in Croydon Bush. The timber was then carried twelve miles around the Hokonui Hills to Wantwood where a "commodious woolshed" was built.

Next owner was Patrick McCaughan who bought the 27,600 acres in 1874. Rabbits were a severe problem at this time, with McCaughan apparently employing over 100 men to deal with the invasion.

Extensive areas of land in Southland were taken up by speculative land companies. Company holdings were largest in Edendale (The Australian and New Zealand Land Company owned 125,000 acres) and on the Waimea Plains (the New Zealand Agricultural Company (NZAC), c.300,000 acres).

The New Zealand Agricultural Company was formed in December 1878. The promoters of the company included prominent individuals - Sir Julius Vogel, Messrs W.J. Larnach, J. Clarke, among them. Runholders were interested in forming a company which could control settlement of the district, and the mid-1870s seemed like a good time to do so as prices for land were increasing. Historian G.A. Hamilton writes that the Company was integral to the development of Northern Southland, and notes that Southland benefited most by having a good agricultural area developed at the company's expense. According to Hamilton the Company owned 609,000 acres, amounting to nearly all the land between the Mataura and Oreti Rivers from Charlton Creek to Eyre Peak, a distance of sixty-five miles, the greater part of it freehold. The company spent thousands on improvements and gave free grants of land for public benefit, including school sites, cemeteries and at least one sports ground.

The Company amalgamated the working of individual runs into one organisation. Each run was managed as a separate unit, and in most cases the old homestead was used as headquarters of local management, while the company manager had to oversee the work on all estates. Each run was ring fenced and a few subdivisions were usually made near the homestead. The first sale of township and suburban agricultural land was made in 1879. The general objects of the Company were to improve the land, provide means of access, subdivide it and sell it at a profit. In addition to running thousands of sheep, the company turned to grain growing on a large scale with the Waimea Plains described in 1885 as one waving ocean of corn, a truly admirable sight. The Company in effect was a means of providing farms for many throughout the Waimea Plains who could not otherwise have afforded them.

Tasmanian-born George Meredith Bell (1836-1898) formally passed the Waimea Estate over to the Company, and entered its employ, relocating temporarily to England to watch the interests of the vendors to the Company. He had been involved in pastoral pursuits in Australia before coming to New Zealand. Managers apparently provided a lavish standard of entertainment. Bell lived at Waimea House when he made his rounds of the station he always rode a magnificent horse, usually a chestnut, and his attire was immaculate. Tan boots and leggings, light coloured riding breeches, black coat, a short bell-topper and kid gloves made him a picturesque figure, who could have stepped out of a 'Country Life' magazine. Soon after his arrival he became a member of the short-lived Southland Provincial Council. He was involved in the foundation of the Waimea Railway, built the first flour mill in Gore in 1877, and founded a sawmill at Croydon Bush, which cut timber for the railway. Later he was one of the founders of the Southland Frozen Meat and Produce Export Company (1886) , and a director of that company throughout its existence.

Waimea and Wantwood were the big houses of the district, and were the centres of large scale entertainment. Guests arrived from Dunedin for house parties in specially chartered carriages.

Despite lofty aims and dreams of profit the Company soon found itself in financial difficulty. The great demand for land which had existed at the time the Company was formed had evaporated, and had not been revived making it impossible to sell land quickly. Both stock and crop prices were low, and sheep losses high, and the rabbits rampant. A bad oat season added further to the losses. Many Company staff in Dunedin resigned at the end of the season, and those remaining were transferred to Wantwood to save the expense of maintaining an office in Dunedin. The Company attempted to sell off some of its holdings, but despite large attendance at the sale there were no bidders.

The Wantwood Homestead was put up for sale in March 1882. The auction notice described:

"About 10 miles from Gore; together with about 2000 acres of very superior agricultural land, subdivided into numerous paddocks and in a high state of cultivation (the English-grass paddocks cannot be surpassed in the Colony), with sufficient turnips to fatten a large number of sheep during the winter. The improvements are all first class; say stone dwelling-house of eight rooms, situated in large plantation and well-laid out grounds and garden, store, offices, large stable and coach house, cottage, barn (with water wheel for chaff-cutting), men's hut (new); cowshed, yards, &c; woolshed, yards &c. The whole forming not only a comfortable and complete home, but the land besides is of undeniable good quality."

Meredith Bell bought Wantwood from the New Zealand Agricultural Company in 1885. Local historian Slocombe describes him as the most prominent figure in Waimea until his death in 1898. Bell acquired more adjoining land in 1889, and by that year had a holding of 48,361 acres. A contemporary report stated: Mr Bell was then the monarch of all he surveyed, not a farm, not a house was to be seen on the Waimea Plains nothing but sheep. Bell enlarged Waimea House and improving the grounds.

The first homestead, presumably the one described in the auction notice, was razed by fire in mid 1886. Bell then set out to build a complete station homestead. A new two-storey building was erected in 1887. He had also built a large woolshed, men's huts and cookshop complete with large baker's ovens in each end. The stables with lofts, stalls and loose boxes were all complete with harness rooms and rooms for various workmen. A blacksmith's shop, built of local rock was located just behind the stables; there was also a general store nearby where all the goods needed for the station were kept. Nearer the homestead were more buildings used as shearer's quarters with an attached office. There was a cricket pitch and a tennis court on the property.

The Company struggled on until 1890 when it went into liquidation, with shareholders losing their capital. In 1895 Wright Stephenson and Company were appointed attorneys for the liquidator. On 6 April 1899 35,439 acres were sold. Land continued to be sold until the final clearance in 1906.

George Meredith Bell died unexpectedly from pneumonia resulting from influenza in 1898. His death was widely mourned. Bell was "widely known and widely respected throughout Southland. He was an energetic settler, hospitable, and an ardent lover of field sports, the hunt and racing having had in him an honourable and enthusiastic supporter. In the business of life he was sagacious and enterprising, being one of the first in the district to apprehend the benefits likely to accrue from the export of frozen meat.Taken altogether the deceased gentleman was one whom the district could ill afford to lose, for his energy was great, and as a personal friend he was among the notables."

On Bell's death, apparently in a state of some financial hardship, large parts of the run were subdivided.

Peter McLeod moved from Central Otago in 1901 and purchased parts of the Croydon Run, and later some of the Wantwood homestead block. McLeod's sons J.H. and W.D. McLeod took over Wantwood from their father.

In the homestead the large kitchen was converted to a living room, with the still large pantry absorbing the kitchen. The Cookshop and shearer's quarters were used until the 1960s, a new concrete shower block having been built to comply with health regulations. A new woolshed and covered yard complex was built in the 1970s. The farm office was shifted from its original site to the rear of the homestead garden. 

Comparative Analysis

Wantwood Homestead is a substantial gentleman's residence/land company manager's residence dating from the 1880s, with its surviving ancillary buildings (woolshed, shearer's quarters/cookshop and farm office).

In Southland's architectural history it is one of the most significant farm homesteads, and its association with the New Zealand Agricultural Company is of special significance, comparable in standing to the other Category I farm homesteads in Southland. Its interior detailing is significant, and other than the service areas of the house (the kitchen and scullery), has been little altered, retaining the sense of grandeur as befitted the centre of the land company estate.

The associated buildings at Wantwood are significant but in poor condition: the substantial timber woolshed, constructed from pit sawn timber is a superb example of its type, but is suffering from general decay, and is in a state of partial collapse. The nearby cookshop/shearer's quarters is derelict. The farm office is in sound condition.                   

 
                    
 
                    
 

A Wet Week

Well I'm afraid this is the only photo I have of a brown trout from Gore! The rest of the week was wet, cold & miserable, the streams & rivers high & dirty. Definitely no good for fishing. We were originally only going to stop in Gore for 2-3 days but ended up staying five nights; there just wasn't any point in moving on until the weather cleared. 
 
 
While in Gore we had a significant wedding anniversary to celebrate & if anybody had said to me earlier that we would be celebrating it in Gore of all places I would have said "Not bloody likely!!" Not that I have much against Gore, it's a great little town but I had ideas of a night or two at a luxury lodge somewhere in the mountains or perhaps even a week in Fiji! Yeah right, dreams are free. So there we were on a cold, wet day celebrating our day with a huge "Southern Man Breakfast" at a little café in town! Maybe the flash dinner can wait for a bigger town. And I shouldn't complain, we're living our dream, what more can I ask for.
 
It was with great surprise when we passed the Flemings Creamoata Mill building, which is just off the main street in Gore. The big trout & the big guitar have always featured in any promotion material I've seen on Gore, I've never associated Sergeant Dan the Creamoata Man with Gore! The Flemings Mill was established in 1878 to mill the large crop of wheat that was produced by the NZ Agricultural Company (see my next blog post). The famous Creamoata brand was developed in the early 1900s & mascot Sergeant Dan made his appearance in the 1920s.


Gore is covering it's bases; not only is it the NZ Capital of Brown Trout fishing, it's also very well known & probably more so, as being  the NZ Capital of Country Music, hence the big guitar  very near the big trout!

 
We did take a couple of tiki-tours around the area checking out the rives & streams during the last few days, we had travelled this road the day before, the next morning we saw that this car had failed to take a slight curve in the road and had rolled a number of times crashing through a fence & landing in a cow paddock. We had seen evidence of what we thought was their handy work at every intersection prior to the crash site. Karma.


North of Gore is the small settlement of Mandeville, well known for the Croydon Aviation Heritage Centre, David had a quick look there while I took some photos in the area. Outside the hangar was this Rogers K 92 Steam Locomotive, the original Kingston Flyer. The train once ran on the Kingston to Invercargill and Gore to Kingston lines and is slowly being restored as funds become available.


We completed a loop after leaving Mandeville by driving back home to Dolamore Park on the gravel country roads between the Waterfall Range & the Hokonui Hills.



When we arrived back at the park on Friday afternoon we were surprised to see that our quiet, serene & peaceful park was a hive of activity; marquees were going up, flags & banners being erected, fences & barriers being banged into place.  The annual Hokonui Mountain Bike & Cross Country Running race was big held the next morning starting & finishing right there in our "front yard"! 


We were woken by muffled voices, passing traffic & the sound of heavy rain the next morning. It's a bit surreal waking up & taking a look out your bedroom window to see a wave of lycra clad bodies passing by. So much "eye-candy" at that time of the morning is surely not good for you!

The rain eventually stopped & the entrants were sent off racing, I bet most came back covered in mud. We took the opportunity, in aewe became hemmed in, to hitch up & head on out before they returned.


We are now parked up at the NZMCA Park in Lumsden. It's a brilliant day & David has gone fishing. Brown trout for dinner? Time will tell.


Thursday, February 13

Gore & A Surprise Visit

We left the Catlins headed for Gore with the intention of stopping here for two or three days so that David would be able to have a fish in the area which is known as the "Brown Trout Capital of NZ". But as we are fast finding out life on the road has many twists & turns. And no fixed itineraries. 

It was a beautiful day to travel, hot & sunny with stunning scenery. This is rural heartland New Zealand & along the way on both sides of the road & for as far as the eye could see the farming community was in a frenzy of activity as the various harvests were waiting to be or was being cut, mowed, turned & bagged.


Our next camp site is at Dolamore Park, a large scenic reserve located on the lower slopes of the Hokonui Hills just 11kms from Gore. The Park has a basic camp site, $10 pp per night with power and is set in amongst beautiful native bush with many walking tracks. There are two large expanses of grass & a substantial children's playground.

There was just us and a caravan the first night but since then there have been 12 or so other campers due to the fact that the Southern Fieldays are being held just 8kms from us in Waimumu. Camping is allowed anywhere that is not fenced but we've chosen to have power so are near the centre of the park. The lower fields are surrounded with rhododendrons & I would imagine make a magnificent display during spring. It's a wonderful place with just one negative, as you may have gathered, we don't have cellphone reception here so I have been unable to post my blogs; I have had to drive up the road just a kilometre or so and park in a farmers gateway to upload these posts- and it's pouring with rain, the windows have steamed over & I'm wondering what the passing traffic must be thinking! 


The day after we arrived the weather was overcast & threating rain so we decided that as we were now just 55kms from Invercargill we'd drive down there & visit the family! Well in fact as much as we wanted to do that too, we also had a couple of important errands to do in the city. One being that David had miraculously found his long lost "Hunting & Fishing" store gift vouchers that we thought had been packed away deep inside the storage unit back in Tauranga. They were suddenly burning a hole in his pocket and he wanted some gear before we moved onto the lakes.

Errands done we called round to the family for dinner. We also put a wash on, updates computers & filled the drinking water containers while we were there; you grab every opportunity to do chores when you're living on the road. Ollie & Ruby were very excited to see us & wanted to know where our "house" was. After dinner Rachel sent us on our way with a freshly baked loaf of bread, the heavenly aroma teased me all the way home & the two thick slices of buttered bread & raspberry jam that I ate on arrival gave me a hell all night with indigestion! But it was so worth it. Fresh bread is never the same the next day.

So that was one day that David didn't go fishing & the next day he never made it either. We decided that because they were happening just down the road we couldn't miss the opportunity of visiting the fieldays. "Fieldays!" I hear some of you say, "Fieldays!! Haven't you guys been to enough fieldays to last a lifetime?"  Well yes we have, but it's been a few years and this is a big one that's comparable to Mystery Creek & we wanted to see if anything had changed in the rural sector since our days. The Southern Fieldays are only held every two years & this was the first time it's been held over three days as opposed to the usual two.


We were both impressed with the size of the show, with a narrow frontage it stretched  back through three large paddocks and branched out into side areas. And right at the beginning of the show we came across some familiar looking products; we didn't make ourselves known, Devan Plastics is part of our past now but I know David finds it rather satisfying as we travel around the countryside to see how many tanks are actually out there. Long after David has left this world there will be a little bit of him scattered far & wide throughout NZ. 


And in fact the tanks weren't the very first things we saw that reminded us of Devan. Right outside the front gate & parked in a paddock across the road getting free advertising were some colourful Devan drums! It's a small world. Makes us feel a little strange to be seeing such familiar products. "Those were the days......" < that's me, not David, he was ready to move on to the next project. It's probably about here that I should also mention the Wireloks we came across at Jacks Bay, another David Evans legacy.


We only managed to cover about two thirds of the displays before we were getting a little weary & rain threatened (it wouldn't be a Fielday without rain, even in the summer!) so we headed for the carpark & home just as the heavens opened up. We were both of the same opinion, a Fielday is a Fielday is a Fielday. Pleased that we went & pleased when we got home. And of course I must also tell you that while at the Fieldays where we wouldn't expect to see anybody we knew,  David got a tap on the shoulder and there was his nephew James (who has the dairy farm) & two of his children. It is a small world indeed!

Tuesday, February 11

Farewell to the Catlins

During our final few days in the Catlins we did a number of short trips nearby. Just down the road from the camp is historic Tunnel Hill, the old brick railway tunnel being the southern most tunnel in New Zealand. The tunnel was built in 1891 and closed to rail traffic in 1971 after the area's decline in the sawmilling industry. It was just a short walk from the car park down to the tunnel & a torch is recommended. We were hoping to see a few glow-worms & maybe some cave wetas but were disappointed not to see one iota of life, not even any spider although I thought one had dropped on my head at one stage but all it was a big fat water drop! Other than the historic value of the tunnel we didn't rate the walk very high at all, it was a very dank, dark & cold walk through to the end of the tunnel & back the same way with nothing interesting happening.


During our week at Hillview Camp, we travelled north 24kms to the "big smoke",Balclutha ,to stock up on supplies. Balclutha, known by the locals as "Clutha"  is a farming town that straddles the mighty Clutha River. We stopped beside the imposing & equally impressive bridge to have lunch. This is SH1 so there was quite a flow of traffic with a number of large trucks including a wide load crossing. It was interesting watching the manoeuvres of the vehicles as they entered the narrow two lane bridge, it's quite intimidating when a large vehicle is approaching you from the other end. Obviously when the bridge was built vehicles weren't so wide or large as they are today. The pilot vehicle of the wide load had to race to the other end to stop any traffic entering before the truck could proceed. 


The Clutha River is massive, it's wide, deep and flows extremely fast. It swirled & whirl pooled all the way past our picnic table and small rapids formed as it hit the bridge abutments, it's quite a scary river. The 340km long Clutha River begins it's rapid journey to the sea at the outlet of Lake Wanaka but also includes water from Lakes Hawea & Whakatipu plus many smaller tributary rivers. From a sign board  "The Clutha drains a total of 2,196,000 hectares & discharges 550 cubic metres of water per second into the Pacific Ocean. It's greatness is only realised when compared to the great rivers of the world. The Nile drains 334,000,000 hectares, has a total length of 5900kms & discharges 650 cubic metres per second, only 18% more volume from an area which is more than 150 times as great"

Kaka Point is a great little beachside holiday settlement located just up the coast from Nugget Point, it's obviously a popular beach for swimming with lovely golden sand & an active Surf Life Saving Club. The community must enjoy & welcome the constant stream of holiday makers & tourists to the area. All along the roadside and over looking the rocky shoreline are well manicured rest areas and picnic spots. A lot have has added personal touches; seats, umbrellas & tables to sit at. There are obviously a lot of paua in the area too going by the amount of paua shells nailed to people's fences & in their gardens & even lining a gravel pathway to the beach.


A Kaka Point crib (bach or holiday home)   


We travelled back to Nugget Point to do the steep short walk down into Roaring Bay which was just at the beginning of the drive up to the point. Roaring Bay is very well known for it's Yellow Eyed Penguin population but we had decided not to stop there the other day when visiting the lighthouse because there were quite a number of cars  in the car park which indicated dozens of people in the hide waiting for the penguins to return from the sea. We have been very lucky with our sightings of the penguins both at Moeraki & in the Catlins so we didn't need to hang out with dozens of others waiting to glimpse from afar a tiny little penguin waddling up the beach. We have been very spoilt with our close encounters.


Roaring Bay is truly beautiful though, a tiny south facing rocky little bay with azure blue water & emerald green windswept scrub and flax, the hide sits well back up off the beach and provides good 180 degree views. As long as you have brought binoculars!

And that was it for the Catlins. Once again we are reluctant to move on & especially this time because we are leaving the coast behind us.
We've had three weeks exploring the beautiful Catlins and have thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, we've met some wonderful people, enjoyed the long twilight evenings & sunny days, we've driven dusty gravel roads & walked many miles, we've visited isolated beaches & rugged rocky coastlines, seen beautiful rivers, hidden lakes & stunning waterfalls, viewed windswept bush, tortured trees & emerald green forests smothered in mosses & ferns. We've travelled through rolling hill country farms of sheep and cattle, small sleepy settlements with many abandoned buildings & the most thrilling of all, we have enjoyed some extraordinary wildlife encounters. The Catlins is everything it claims to be & more, a magical, mystical corner of New Zealand.

Sunday, February 9

Cannibal Bay, Catlins

It's all about sealions once again & I realise that some of you may well have had enough of seeing sealions sprawled out across my pages but I promise this will be the last one for the time being as tomorrow we move inland & then hopefully I'll be apologising about the multiple photos of brown trout!

Cannibal Bay is another one of those beautiful sheltered & secluded bays that is usually by-passed by the "must see NZ in 2 weeks" type who have only allocated 2-3 days to see the Catlins. But if it's sealions you want to see then the 8km drive down a narrow winding gravel road is well worth it. It is here that we have seen the most sealions in all of the places that we have visited, 8 in total.

Cannibal Bay is just a short climb over reasonably high sand dunes from the far north end of Surat Bay, the bay that we walked up for miles to find the sealions when we stopped at Newhaven on the way south back in early December. The rocky headland below (that looks like a face- or perhaps a cannibal!) separates the two bays. Cannibal Bay was named by a surveyor after he found human bones there, although nothing indicated that they had been eaten.


The tide was on it's way in but we had time to explore in amongst the rocky outcrops at the north end of the bay. Again the colours were fabulous, the bull kelp laying thick on the exposed rocks.


A lot of the rocky ledges here & in Kaka Point have evenly spaced ridges which run the full length, like they have been shunted together & pushed upwards at even intervals. I'm sure there is a name for them. Nursery beds of tiny mussels & lots of barnacles cover the rocks.


And quietly running along the ledges we spotted a NZ Pipit (pihoihoi), these are shy & solitary birds although you can approach them quite closely. They look like the more common introduced skylark but can be distinguished by their constant bobbing action as they run or stand, flicking their long tails. Pipits live near beaches, in rough grasslands, on verges of unsealed roads, on open river beds, and in high-country tussock grasslands among glaciers. This one was feeding from the end of the seaweed stem.


After exploring the rocks we wondered if there were any sealions up on the beach. Looking through the binoculars & right down the far end of the bay we spotted some familiar large lumps of  "seaweed" & "driftwood" lazing on the sand. I'm sure people that pull into the bay must get out of their cars have a quick look down the beach, see nothing that resembles a sealion, get back in again & drive away. Particularly here where the entrance to the beach is right up in the northern corner. So if you are planning on visiting Cannibal Bay be prepared to walk to the south end, you won't spot any sealions until you're just about on top of them. Here are the first three that we came across; chilling in the cool sand on a hot day.


The sealion on the left above was sprawled out on his back and it was with surprise that I recognised him. He was the same sealion that was chased by a bigger boy when we visited Jacks Bay over a week ago. Jacks Bay is a good few kilometres south. The photo on the right below is one I took at Jacks Bay, you can see a round missing chunk of skin on his chest between his front flippers. On the left the missing piece is covered in sand but still visible. At least he has some mates this time. And what a mate he had, the biggest sealion we have come across.


He obviously felt quite at home in the others company, he was catching flies (literally) while snoring away. That's not him waving at me, they hold their flippers up to direct cool air down.


Here the big boy had a yawn & stretch while another sealion rolled about on the wet sand behind him. He reminded me of a cat or dog doing the same.


Further on I came across another four sealions including a second huge boy with the beginning of a thick mane.


I had walked down to the end of the bay while David went & got the ute & drove down, he wanted to check out another ute & boat trailer tucked up by the rocks at the far end. His interest in sealions is fast waning; seen one seen them all he reckons. He would prefer for them to be walking or swimming in the waves. Here he is quietly cruising past the sleeping sealions.


And here is the big boy, isn't he gorgeous? (Click on the photos to make them bigger)


Having a stretch & yawn.... 

And a scratch....


 Did you say "cheese"?


This guy with the soulful look appears to be a little worse for wear.


And finally then this was the last of the sealions, a smaller boy tucked up under the dunes right beside the track over to Surat Bay.


I thought this would make a good Ford ad...


And still with one more surprise on the way home, I spotted this wild deer & her fawn grazing just below the road, she quickly took off for the bush when we stopped.