Southern Snow

Another interruption to the time line- I’m sure I’ll catch up soon. We’ll be with the family in Winton this week and I’ll have a few extra days when everyone is at work or school…..well that’s the plan anyway.

We moved from Cromwell to Arrowtown three days ago- back to the holiday park we stayed at when we were last in town for the autumn festival. It was nice to have power again, especially for the electric blankets and also free use of the powerful hot showers- they had taped off the coin slots for the off season. It wasn’t so nice to have neighbours- very close neighbours, when they stepped out their door it was onto our door mat! Way too close for comfort, luckily they were there for just the one night.

How is this for a backdrop to a shopping centre- pretty impressive don’t you think. It’s no wonder they’re called The Remarkables.

It’s been reasonably cold although nowhere near as cold as it was at Tekapo & Twizel, there was snow on the surrounding mountains, but again, not as much as I expected. Although the Crown Range got an extra coating overnight.

We left Arrowtown this morning heading for the NZMCA Park in Lumsden, just a short road trip away from the family in Winton. It became obvious as we travelled south that snow has fallen down this way alot more than it has around the Queenstown/Lakes District.

The Remarkables with blue sky this time, and a little more overnight snow. With such sharp peaks and steep valleys, I wonder if they ever get totally white.

Devils Staircase, Lake Wakatipu

It was a huge surprise to see how much snow had fallen around Garston, Athol and on the Slate Range, the last time we came through here, it was early autumn and we drove down the range on the Nevis Road after finishing the Nokomai 4WD rally.

I had to get another shot of the woolshed and Castle Hill, looking very different to the last time as well.

June 2015

April 2014

We stopped opposite the Garston Hotel- we had dinner here after the rally. Today there were very few vehicles passing through.

Garston- a winter wonderland.

I can die happy now, I’ve managed to shoot two churches with snow!

The Round the Mountains cycle trail has now been completed; they were doing the ground work for these two bridges over the Mataura River the last time we passed by. Great looking bridges too, there is a third one further on past Athol.

A passing shot of our favourite Vege Shed, now closed for winter and look at Mid Dome, totally covered in snow.

Approaching Mid Dome, we drove into Nokomai Station near the base, no wonder the station manager told us the high country is only farmed during the summer months.

Athol in Autumn

Once our van was repaired & good to go we were keen to get back on the road after our unscheduled stop in Te Anau. Funnily enough, we had the most beautifully appointed & large motel unit at Radfords, but we both commented that we felt trapped in an unmovable square box, albeit a box with a luxury spa bath! Life on the road has definitely worked its way under our skin and travelling is now firmly in the blood.

After a busy two weeks in Milford doing so many different activities we decided to head back to Athol for a few days to “re-group” and get some R&R in a familiar place. You will remember we stayed in Athol while we waited to do the 4WD Safari over Nokomai Station. We parked up on the same site as before with the great view over the paddocks and river and beyond to East Dome, although this time the grass was a little drier & the willows had started to turn colour & lose their  leaves, autumn is definitely in residence & rain is badly needed. When Pam (our host) arrived later in the day she exclaimed “:You’re back!, I knew as soon as I saw the van from down the road it was you guys”

For the next few days we relaxed a little, did a couple of short tiki-tours around the district, David went fishing & I continued catching up on my photos and blog posts from Milford; it was great to just relax & enjoy the sun.

You may also remember my blog post on the Vege Shed. Of course we couldn’t pass without calling in again to stock up on free range eggs, vegetables, lamb & venison. As you do. We also heard that on the following Sunday, Trailer SixtySix, an iconic Airstream food caravan was setting up outside the Shed serving coffee & light meals. We marked that down in our busy schedule and headed there for lunch not long after having our regular cooked Sunday brunch!

The coffee & food were superb, I ordered the Slow Cooked Shanks in Red Wine Sauce & Ciabatta Roll & David had the Slow Roasted Lamb Sandwich.  We had a great hour or so chatting to all the locals that were calling in & then the caravan owners who were English migrants who had come to NZ from London about 6 years ago and settled in tiny Garston.

Bart puts his order in-  "Ummmm......I'll have the....the crispy, streaky bacon.....no wait, a venison slider......."

The owners are hoping to set the caravan up in Garston where the National Cycle Trail will pass through the township. They should do good there along with their B&B in the same settlement. The cycle trail is following the old Kingston Flyer rail corridor and all along the road we could see ground works & preparations going on. We could also smell the preparations; every morning in the cold still autumn air a pall of smoke rose high into the sky drifting along in the breeze from the bonfires along the path as they burnt the cleared undergrowth.

The signs of autumn were everywhere, roadside bushes dripping in berries and rosehips, the ground under the chestnut trees was covered in husks & nuts, & on the dull days the beautiful golden elms brightened up the gardens.

Under the autumn coloured trees in a roadside reserve near Garston were dozens of bright red & orange toadstools.

Garston’s claim to fame-

Once David had fished the section of the Mataura River which ran behind the campsite we drove up past Garston to Brightwater to check the river out up there. He found a couple of guys on the riverbank enjoying a beer. They were from Auckland & on a fishing holiday & not having too much luck. But they did tell us about the Brightwater Spring which was just over the river and through the paddock.

We waded across the river and scanned the paddock, it looked to reach right over to Castle Hill without a break. We followed the fenceline across the grass for a few hundred metres until we came to this beautiful stream that cut across our path and joined the river further down. The water was very cold & gin clear, the stream bed was a mass of small coloured stones and the water plants (I don’t like to call them river weed they were so beautiful) were an array of brilliant greens gently swaying in the flow. The odd trout that we spotted quickly hid.

We turned up the stream and followed it for some distance looking for the source. We found a couple of fairly large areas where the water was bubbling out of the ground & joining the stream but we kept going hoping to come across the actual beginning of the water flow. Unfortunately boggy ground and a heavy barb wire fence halted our progress.

Part of the spring

We decided we couldn’t go any further so turned back towards the river taking a more direct route across the grass. And that was when we found dozens and dozens of horse mushrooms. Individuals, groups of 3 or 4 and huge fairy rings to match the size of the mushrooms. I didn’t have a bag with me so I filled the hood of my jacket, pulling the drawstring firm to hold them. There were so many that I could afford to be selective, only taking the buttons, which looked more like door knobs, and the large new clean ones. Mushroom soup for dinner that night, followed by chicken & mushroom casserole the next & mushroom tart on the third. You wouldn’t guess that I’m not that fussed on mushrooms but I can’t miss an opportunity of making use of nature’s bounty.

We didn’t need to get our feet wet again when we got back to the river further downstream. This old "bailey stock bridge” was in place, it made for a great photo subject. I’ve never seen one quite like this before, I would think the farmer would have to shift it before heavy rain or winter arrives. It could quite easily be washed downstream.

Just north of Garston I spied this rustic woolshed which looked great against the backdrop of Castle Hill.

Right next door were a large flock of sheep looking very white against the green grass, they’d obviously just been shorn.
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The next day when we came past the woolshed yards were alive with more shorn sheep. A classic & iconic New Zealand scene. I joined a carload of people who were taking photos too.

And finally it was time to hitch up and say goodbye to one of our favourite camp sites. The campground is closed over winter due to the cold conditions and the water freezing in the pipes but Pam has said we’re most welcome to park over anytime as we can use our own facilities. I’m sure we’ll be back again but I have a feeling it won’t be during the winter.

We interrupt this transmission.....

...to report that the trout drought has broken!

Vege Shed Visit & the Road to Mavora

The Vege Shed, SH6, Athol-Five Rivers Highway, Northern Southland, NZ

I mentioned in the last post from Athol that we'd be calling in at the Vege Shed as we passed on our way to the Lakes. Which we did. Twice. What a great little place, so much so that I thought it deserved a dedicated post all to itself (well nearly all to itself). The Vege Shed is the on-farm store for Athol Valley Meats, it sells meat (lamb & venison) & produce to locals and passersby from this restored 100 year old woolshed.

Bart greets the customers.

We filled our basket with fresh fruit & vegetables along with two dozen free range eggs (finally some more free range eggs!) Out of the fridge came vacuumed packed salmon, bacon & garlic flavoured mussels- well we do need to have a few treats while we're out of circulation don't we. And next came the meat, various cuts of vacuumed packed & frozen venison & lamb along with a couple of fresh selections for the next night or two.

While David chatted with Heather, the very affable owner, I wandered about filling the basket with more goodies. In the end I had to call it quits because I was unsure whether I'd be able to fit all the cold food in the fridge and freezer. We left with a huge box load of produce & a promise to toot on our way back past so Heather could check out our rig. We'd driven down without the van unsure whether we'd be able to turn around inside the yard.

Back at the van I managed to squeeze everything into the fridge & freezer with room to spare so once we were hitched up and on our way, instead of tooting we pulled in again and I bought another lot of meat & more eggs! Needless to say we have been eating like kings these past couple of weeks. Bart, the Schnauser was still parked in his spot enjoying the morning sun.  

If you are passing the Vege Shed I'd highly recommend stopping & having a look. The produce was super fresh & has lasted us well over the two weeks. And the meat has been exceptional, very tasty indeed. We especially enjoyed the venison medallions.

It was a leisurely drive of about 60kms to the Lakes although the last 34kms was on a dusty gravel road that was in need of a good grade in places. There were some quite large pot holes and the van shook about a bit. We stopped a couple of times for a walk around check inside & out but found all to be in ship-shape order. Occasionally I'll forget to stow something, usually something small like my reading glasses or the drink coasters which will have found their way onto the floor. But nothing major yet *touch wood*.

We were passing through sheep country again and also quite a number of deer farms. This area was where helicopter capture & deer farming began. There was also a lot of tussock covered hills surrounded by green stock crops & hay paddocks. The area is very dry & in need of a good dose of rain.

As we got closer to the lakes, the mountain ranges on both sides of the river valley rose steeply out of the haze. The scenery really is spectacular.

Eyre Mountains Conservation Park

Just as we were beginning to think that the gravel road was never going to end the Mavora Lakes sign appeared and we turned onto the access road. The road wound it's way through a Beech Forest beside the South Mavora Lake & we were hoping we weren't going to meet anyone coming the other way as it was very narrow & winding with many overhanging trees. The sun glistening through the branches and dancing on the road just made it harder for our eyes to adjust to the light difference.



South Mavora Lake

The Mavora Lakes consist of two lakes, North Mavora and South Mavora, they are part of Te Wahipounamu/South-West New Zealand World Heritage Area and are surrounded by an impressive landscape of mountains, forest and tussock grassland. There are many activities that can be done in the area and a lot that are not available in other National Parks, these include camping, walking, horse trekking, walking your dog, tramping, boating, fishing, mountain biking, motor biking, 4W-driving and hunting.

We signed in at the DOC information board & checked out where we might like to camp. This camp site is huge, it's 7kms from the entrance to the southern end of the North Mavora lake and camping is allowed at various areas all the way along the road and off on side tracks. There are spots beside the lakes or back up on plateau underneath the bushline. You can tuck yourselves away in a sheltered area with views of the mountains or park right on the lake. Contained "long-drop" toilets, fresh water taps & fire pits are plentiful.  We decided to drive all the way to the end checking as we went on what might be a good site. We'd decided we wanted to be beside the north lake (where motorised boats are allowed) so we could finally get the Takacat inflatable out and launch it for the very first time.

The end of the road- Mt Campbell behind the park

There was hardly anyone camping, just a few motorhomes dotted about & a couple of tents in the trees here & there. We found a great spot on a small terrace just above the lake & tucked ourselves into the side of the trees. Good protection from any southerlies &/or westerlies that might decide to pay us a visit.

It was a perfect day to arrive, as the afternoon wore on it got extremely hot & with not a breath of wind the emerald green lake looked like a millpond. We were pretty pleased with our camp site choice especially with this view looking up the lake. Mt Cerberus was just across the water and provided us with some spectacular sights over the next two weeks.

Fangorn Forest...

.....Silverlode River &  Nen Hithoel. If you are a LOTR fan you'll probably know these names from Middle Earth. We know the area where these fictional places are located as the Mavora Lakes and it's where we are headed today for two to three weeks.

Mavora Lakes, there are two; North & South are located at the end of 35kms of gravel road. The road leaves SH94 about half way between Mossburn & Te Anau in Southland and winds it way through the Mararoa River valley. We've not been to the lakes before but from all accounts it is a stunningly beautiful area. We'll be staying at the DOC camp which is located between the lakes. We'll also be launching our Takacat inflatable for the very first time, on the north lake only of course, there's a ban on powered boats on the south one.

Looking at my road map I am fascinated to see that just before the lakes another gravel road branches off and continues over mountains & passes for what looks like miles to finally arrive on the shores of Lake Wakatipu & ends at the famous (in NZ) Walter Peak Station. The station sits on the opposite shore to Queenstown & the well known steamer Earnslaw is usually the way goods and people visit.  It's probably 10kms by boat across the lake from Queenstown but I bet at least 200+ kms by road. While at the lakes we may just have to do a little tiki-tour to explore further.

We will be out of cellphone range while we're there so this will be my last blog post for awhile but have no fear, I shall have a few to post on our return to civilization.

We didn't leave Athol yesterday as originally planned. David had spent all day Sunday cleaning the dust off & out of the ute after our epic 4WD safari on Saturday. He felt he needed a day of rest (but has pottered about all day) & I also wanted to complete the 4WD blogs so we delayed our departure. And it was lucky we did, it blew a gale from early morning with plenty of very strong gusts, our new neighbours towed their caravan down from Wanaka and had the front window of the van broken by the wind.

Before we leave this morning we will be calling in to stock up at the "Vege Shed" which is just down the road, apparently it sells very tasty lamb & venison too. There are not too many options for fresh meat & vegetables between here & Mavora Lakes so we'll take full advantage of what's on offer. I just love their building (an old woolshed) & how it fits right into the environment.

Signing off for now, somewhere "Out There" in the wop-wops (Kiwi speak for out the back of beyond)

Athol in the Valley

Athol is a sleepy little settlement nestled in a sheltered valley between the Eyre & Hector Mountains  on SH6 & located half way between Lumsden & Queenstown. I imagine it would have been a busy rest stop in times past but now with faster cars & better roads it looks like the traffic tends to cruise straight on through heading for the popular tourist destinations in either direction. Even the cute little two roomed school is now closed.

We're parked up at the Athol Lodge & Holiday Park which, as we've found with past properties, is a rather grand name for a lovely small, tranquil & well established, campground tacked onto a farm. We have glorious views over a sheep paddock past the trees lining a river to the range behind us including one of the three Domes, Middle Dome.

There are just six powered sites, each with their own "ensuite", toilet & shower. What a great idea, no distance to walk, your own bathroom that you know no one else has used & easy to clean for the owners. There are plenty of non powered sites down past the laundry too (complimentary cold wash & drier available). There is also a  "Lodge" further down the property. This is another area well known for trout fishing & we've already met a number of overseas people who have come here just to fish.

Of course the first thing we had to do was check out the river. Luckily there is an anglers access track right beside the camp ground as there are also plenty of signs elsewhere saying "NO TRESPASS, NO ANGLERS ACCESS", the farmers in the area have obviously had enough of fishermen leaving gates open or disturbing stock & crops.

The river is running low, it was crystal clear & ice blue with plenty of deeper pools & a few rapids. Within minutes David had found plenty of big fat brown trout feeding off the back of the under water debris as we walked up stream and swimming around in various pools.

David making his way up stream looking for trout.

The trout are obviously line shy though as so far he hasn't managed to hook any. An American guy who is staying in the camp ground, & has been coming here for the last 8 years, said they all would have been caught a few times over. He gave us a few other streams to try but I don't think we'll get there this trip. Still it's been great stalking them with rod & camera!

The valley is surrounded with high country sheep stations, most of the side roads lead to more stations further inland. Along the valley are plenty of barley & wheat crops just about ready to harvest along with swede & brassica crops for the stock. Rain is desperately needed in this area, just not until after tomorrow.

Shearing was happening on many of the farms that we passed, these merinos have been brought down from the high country & were waiting for their turn in the woolshed. Merinos with their dirty grey wool & cute faces stand out amongst the other  "fluffy white" sheep paddocks. They have the unusual habit of grouping together, heads to the centre, to keep cool. It was a stinking hot day and there were trees on the boundary but most of them were gathered in little groups around the paddock.

We went for a drive around the area & down a few of the side roads, David looking for other streams & me looking for old woolsheds & abandoned buildings to shoot, of which there were plenty.

This is the range that we can see from our campsite, part of Middle Dome & also Nokomai Station. Nokomai Station is the station where we are going tomorrow on the "Hidden Valley" 4WD Safari. Nokomai Station Road runs along the base of these "hills" and we'll be following the river and the road 10kms in to the meeting area. We already have some of the 4WD lingo sussed, apparently we're driving a "shiny"- hopefully it will still be shiny when we come out, well at least have not much more than a squirt of water will wash off! And according to a fellow camper who is going on the 4WD trip too (he has a mean machine with 2 inch thick ropes & chains onboard along with other 4WD paraphernalia ), this will be a "shiny" trip- easy! :) We'll let you know.