A Small Seaside Settlement- Sandspit

Real-time

We left Shakespear Park heading north once again. We were hoping to stay at another couple of Auckland Regional Parks along the way but they were all either closed for winter, closed because of the ground conditions or had size restrictions. 

I was feeling a little despondent because I had wanted to explore some of the North Auckland area before we arrived in Northland. Usually when we travel this route, we're on a mission; it's getting from A to B and through Auckland and out the otherside- north or south- as quick as possible. This time I wanted to see a little bit more; it's been a long time since we've been in the area.

As we approached Warkworth, I was scanning the NZMCA parking app, checking the location of places available (or not as the case may be) and bemoaning the fact that I didn't really want to carry on to Northland without at least  a couple of days exploring the coastline. And that's when the Sandspit Holiday Park jumped out at me!

'Let's give that a go'. I said, just as we approached the notorious SH1 bottleneck intersection at Warkworth. We made it into the right lane just in time! 

Sandspit Holiday Park's quirky welcome- thought we ere visiting the
 West Coast's Shanty Town for a moment!

We usually stay at motor camps when we need to give the batteries a boost or do the laundry, neither was needed but it was great to have a lovely base from where we could explore for a few days.

We would have liked waterfront but those sites had just been re-grassed and then the site we thought we'd get into was very soft underfoot so we decided to back into a bigger area under the trees just off the road frontage. 

Even getting into the casual camping area was a tight fit, David had to back in from the entrance but we were very pleased with ourselves when it went smoothly and we parked perfectly! That was until I realised we'd made a rookie mistake. No TV reception! We were under the trees, even though they had no leaves. I mean, how long have we been doing this? I blame it on the two months parked in suburban Napier, we forgot one of the basics. Check reception before you unhitch! 

Well we weren't shifting so that was that, no TV for three days. Luckily we could watch TV On Demand on the iPad for the news and a couple of programmes but internet reception wasn't that hot either so in the end I gave up and processed a whole heap of photos instead.

Sandspit is a small seaside settlement on the edge of a large estuary which is fed by the Matakana River. It's also the gateway to Kawau Bay and the wider Hauraki Gulf area. Water taxis and tour boats leave the Sandspit Wharf to visit Kawau Island.

Sandspit also has a large boating community and a fairly new marina on the inland side of the spit.

There's a small wetland and mangrove swamp between the camp and the marina, and now with my newfound knowledge on Banded Rails I suspected that there would be a few hiding out in there. I got up before daybreak the next morning and crept along the edge of  mudflats beside the mangroves not 50 metres from our front door which was very cool. 

There was nothing in the first area so I moved on to the next mudflat beside the wharf carpark, not expecting anything as it was much more open. Famous last words!  I sneezed as I moved into the open and couldn't believe my eyes when not one, but three banded rail shot out from the mangroves right below my feet, streaking across the mud and disappearing into the scrub on the far side. No camera ready of course, but never mind, I was thrilled to see them. Talk about feast or famine. I went again the next morning but nothing, I even sneezed hoping for a repeat performance. 

Sandspit Holiday Park is mostly full of baches, cabins and permanent caravans; there's no doubt it would be a very busy place during the summer months. Many generations of Kiwi families would have holidayed here over the years, it's the perfect place for boating, fishing and for children swimming in the shallow waters when the tide is in.

Baches line the waterfront from the park right along the edge of the shallow estuary just above the tide line and below quite a steep bush covered hill.

There's obviously a theme going on with the bach names, a bit like the hidden West Coast fishing village of Kwitchatown which we visited near Haast. The little bach right at the entrance to the holiday park was named Starter Box; personally the Wine Box wins my vote.

I thought I'd found my dream setting a little further along, this bach was set a bit further away from the other holiday homes.

That was until I spied another bach hidden underneath a huge pohutukawa further along and around the next bend.

With no road and only low tide access, this would be a place to get away from it all. And I bet generations of the same family have spent their summers here. 

...it also had a very kiwiana sculpture in the 'front garden'; no doubt made from all the lost jandals that float in on the tide. Which reminds me of a jandal that broke while I was on a turtle spotting canoe tour in Bali, the guide paddled around in the rocks for a short time and then handed me a jandal he scooped out of the water. Of course it didn't match, it was a different colour and a different size but with my good one, it did the trick until I was able to buy a new pair a few days later.

An Open Sanctuary; Part 3- Tieke & Tiri

Real-time

Not only did I get to see the Banded Rail while we camped at Shakespear Park but I was also lucky enough to have a close encounter with not one, but two rare and endangered North Island Saddleback/Tieke. 

Tieke have only recently (May, 2018) been introduced to the park; 40 were relocated from Tiritiri Matangi Island, an island sanctuary just off the tip the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and across the water from Shakespear Park. Tieke spend alot of their time on the ground and nest in the cavities of trees which make them extremely vulnerable to introduced predators; they can only survive longterm on the mainland within a predator proof fence (although some do escape over the fence and set up home, their survival rate is not great).

I happened to be walking along an open track near the other camp when I thought I recognised a bird call a distance away. Tieke have a very distinctive sound and once you have heard them, you'll always recognise the call.

I hadn't known they were in the sanctuary so it was a thrill to check out the nearby bush and find two birds flitting about and calling to each other. In fact there was a third bird nearby and I suspect that was why there was a lot of  noise and they were out in the open. The male of the pair (I'm thinking that's him above) was challenging the other bird at every call, his mate (that's her in the first photo) was coming in to reassure him, often tapping bills and following him around.  

I was pleased to get some lovely photos of the birds, we've seen tieke on several predator free islands and other mainland sanctuaries but they are usually in the dark bush and moving fast as they forage along the ground and around fallen logs, this makes it very hard to get any decent photos.  

I love the contrast of the red wattles against the sleek black feathers in this shot. Tieke belong to the same family as the beautiful and endangered Kokako, with it's blue wattles (and haunting song) and the extinct Huia which had orange wattles.

We were very impressed with the bird life around Shakepear Park, it was fabulous to see so many species; endemic, native and introduced, going about their business without a worry of being chased or eaten. 

The small flocks of Brown Quail/Kuera kept us entertained; like fluffy bumble bees, they hurried through the short grass when they were disturbed or were flushed from bush.

Some of the more common birds I photograph were (from the top, clockwise); the Variable Oystercatcher/Torea Pango, Pukeko, Feral Pigeon, Eastern Rosella, Peahen and a Skylark.

With many of the park's Kowhai trees in full bloom, the Tui spent most of their day- in between sipping the nectar- protecting 'their' tree from other tui and the Bellbirds/Korimako.

There are several tracks and trails of varying lengths throughout the park, some are loops, others join up, most are through a mix of bush and open ground. One of the longer trails allows mountain bikes. 

I decided to walk up through Waterfall Gully on the Heritage Trail (3.9km loop) hoping to find a Bush Robin or two (these have also been introduced to Shakespear), and while I heard a few none came down to the path. I even tempted them by scratching around in the leaf litter, this is usually a sure fire way to attract them.

Once through the bush, it was steady climb to the Lookout, sitting near the centre of the Park and a meeting point for most of the trails. There had been a very light drizzle which was much appreciated  as I climbed to the lookout but luckily it cleared soon after I reached the top which was great as I wanted to see the views and walk the Tiri Track (4.8km) back to Te Haruhi Bay.

The views from the Lookout platform were spectacular; this is looking to the east, out over regenerating bush to Tiritiri Matangi Island. The island that the many of the birds here in Shakespear came from. Some have even made their own way here across the water. On the far right you can see one of the Fuller Ferries that take tours out to the island from Gulf Harbour and downtown Auckland.

Walkers head back down to Te Haruhi Bay via the Lookout Track (2.5km loop). Rangitoto Island spreads herself along the horizon with Waiheke Island disappearing to the left.

Shakespear Homestead (now a YMCA Lodge) overlooks Te Haruhi Bay, with the houses of Gulf Harbour behind. You can't see our rig in the bay, it's hidden in the trees to the left of the small pump shed, centre left (click to enlarge).

After a pit stop at the lookout I carried on along the top, heading towards the coast and Tiritiri Matangi. The north east corner of the tip of the peninsula is NZ Defence Force land and a barbed wire fence stops intruders. I'm sure birds can't read so there must be alot over there too, they're still protected by the predator fence which starts in Army Bay, at the entrance to the Defence Force land.

There's a alternate track that cuts the corner off the Tiri Track, it heads down into this gully through bush and then rejoins back up the top on the other side. I decide to stick to the open ground; I'm loving the views. I can see the track way over the far side making it's way to the top of the headland; still quite a way to walk. 

It seems that many of the walkers I'm passing up coming towards me but I'm pleased that I'm doing the walk clockwise, the climbs are a little more gentle. This may not seem a steep climb but it is and there's another steeper one over that rise.

I had been following this couple who came out ahead of me from the alternate track; that's not a skirt, he has a yellow jacket tied around his waist. I'm following them along and then find out that we've both missed the turn down a fence line so we have to scramble down a steep slope to the track below.

They continue on and I take a short detour to check out Pink Beach, there's a steep staircase down to the rocks and a hidden beach (behind me). The tide is stopping access although I can report that the small amount of sand I could see did indeed have a pink tinge. This is often caused by broken shell and barnacle plates.

From the beach is was a gentle climb up the track past this lookout shelter. I'm not sure if it is one of the pillboxes left over from WW11 but it certainly looked like a lookout.

At the top of the next hill there's a quintessential New Zealand scene; a gathering of pukeko & sheep; the water trough, and not the views, are hot property here.

This little guy was keeping an eye on my movements, willing me to continue on my way so he didn't have to vacate his shady spot behind the trough.

I carried on up and over another hill until Te Haruhi Bay and home base came into view. 

And then I once again lost my way when I failed to see a marker post, and it's no good trying to follow what you think is the track because there are so many sheep tracks as well. I walked to the bottom and then back up two of those grass slopes (above) looking for the track down to the bay. It was in the third one! And the marker pole was on the fence at the bottom; I couldn't  see it from the top of the hill but I guess most people walk the other way and their pole stands out against the skyline.

So close yet so far! We're parked to the side of the caravan you can see in this photo, centre right. 

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Shakespear Park and would highly recommend it, the prolific bird life was a definite highlight. We'll return one day.

An Open Sanctuary; Part 2- On the Rail Trail

Real-time

I wonder how many people have seen this bird in New Zealand, let alone know of this bird?

That is a Banded Rail/Mioweka and it is one very shy and secretive bird. 

And it was a  'big wahoo for me!!!' < that's me jumping up & down. I have finally been able to tick the Banded Rail off my virtual 'Bird Life List'. It's only taken me five years of scanning every saltmarsh and estuary we've ever parked near or explored to find one! I keep my 'bird list' in my head not like genuine Birders who photograph & record every aspect of a sighting but it was pretty exciting all the same.

The road to Okoromai Bay

I knew there had been quite a few sightings of Banded Rail in Shakespear Park and that the birds were a little less shy due to the number of people that visit the area, so I got a heads up from an acquaintance on one of the Facebook birding forums I belong to. She lives nearby and spends a lot of time at the park bird watching.

Once I knew where to head, it was 'just' a matter of spending some time scanning the marshes with our binos and looking out for any movement along edges of the mangroves and grasses. David went along one side, I went up another. What a job that is; it's still not easy and you really do have to keep your eyes peeled. There are plenty of Pied Stilts/Poaka who are quick to give the game away as you approach.....

...and even more so if you are near a nesting Pied Stilt.

There's a Banded Rail in the photo below (click to enlarge), you probably won't see it, it's too far away but I've arrowed the spot so you can see (or not as the case may be) how far away we were from the bird spotted. And spotted by none other than my 'bird spotter extraordinaire' David, who has a very good eye (and patience) for this sort of challenge.

It came wandering out of the mangroves following the tide line along as it searched for snails, worms and crabs, along with anything else tasty it found. They are very well camouflaged amongst the mangrove pneumatophores (aerial roots).

Once David spotted it he had to try and grab my attention as I was away off down the road. I could see this little stick figure waving his arms about so I hurried back towards him (he'd sent a text but I had my phone on silent). As soon as the rail spotted my movement (and I was a long way away from it too) it shot back into the mangroves. The nearby Pied Stilt didn't help with it's high pitched alarm call.

We quietly waited for it to venture back out into the open and then watched it weave up and down a small open patch for quite awhile. Once it had finished and moved off out of sight we searched again, along both sides of the road but failed to find another bird. Not too worry, I was more than happy to have finally seen a Banded Rail!

But then a little niggling thought kept playing in my head for the rest of the afternoon and everytime I woke during the night. So there I was, up before the crack of dawn and back down at Okoromai Bay where it was like Piccadilly Station with at least 10 Banded Rail feeding on the grass verge along both sides of the road. As soon as they spotted the vehicle they were off, some across the road, others into the nearby undergrowth (and looking like little mini road runners as they streaked across the tarseal). A couple even flew off- they are strong but reluctant fliers. I've lighten this photo alot, it was still very dark outside.

And this one has been lightened too, this rail stood still in the saltweed. That was until I moved to get a shot out the window and then he was off too.

I watched as several birds, heads down snaked their way quickly through the weed until they reached the cover of the high scrub on the far side of the saltpond and disappeared.

And then I quietly watched from inside the cab with the window down as I scanned the edges waiting for them to reappear. Some even moved back out onto the grass verges beside the road, but always far enough away that I couldn't get a good shot. And then the morning influx of daily runners/jogger/walkers and dogs started arriving which put those ones back down for good.

On the far side of the wetland, two birds came out of the undergrowth together, can you see them? Their camouflage colours work really well here too.....all the time they have their heads down and weren't flicking their tails.

I think they were a pair, they stopped to say hello to each other when their paths crossed as they worked their way back and forth through the saltweed. 

Another bird, making it's way along the back edge, went to check out a bunch of reeds and wandered into their space, it was soon chased off. 

Banded rail  were once widely scattered throughout New Zealand. They have now disappeared from almost all of the South Island and only occur around Nelson and Marlborough. It's thought that they have now disappeared from the lower half of the North Island as well.

Rails spend much of their time feeding under mangrove cover when the tide is out and when it's in, in rushes, tall grass and scrubland in the upper reaches of estuaries. Habitat clearance and drainage has had a significant impact on the banded rail population nationwide. Over 90% of lowland wetlands have been drained and cleared for agriculture since Europeans settled New Zealand. 

I was thrilled to finally be able to say I have seen a Banded Rail and not just one Banded Rail, at least a dozen! Long may they survive in this special little bay (outside the Shakespear Park's predator fence) and not far from suburbia.