Absolutely Amazing Aurora

Real-time 

How exciting is this! A week ago today and two nights before we left Southland, the most amazing mind-blowing aurora lit up the southern skies. And I was lucky enough to have a front row seat....well nearly front row, Winton is probably about 3 rows back.

And what was that I said about not being bitten by the aurora chasing bug? This was too good an opportunity to miss; this was what I've been waiting three years to see.

The Aurora Facebook page members had been on high alert all afternoon as the Kp number soared and the Solar Wind Gauge needles went beserk. The Kp number measures the strength of the aurora. It runs from 0 (very weak) to 9, which indicates a major geomagnetic storm with strong auroras. Anything above Kp5 is classed as a geomagnetic storm. It mostly sits at around a benign Kp1 to Kp3 but on Sunday afternoon, May 28th, the Kp was a very strong Kp7 to 8.

Of course nothing could be seen during daylight hours, so all fingers were crossed as we waited in anticipation, hoping it would carry on into the evening. With a clear cloudless sky and an early setting moon due, the scene was set for the perfect night to view the Southern Lights.

I kept one eye on the Aurora Alert page and the other out the door as the sun headed for the horizon. When I couldn't wait any longer, around 6pm, I gathered up my gear and headed out into the fading twilight. Winton unfortunately is very flat and quite featureless but I drove around to the sports field I'd checked out earlier in the afternoon, I knew it had a clear view to the south. I could have cried when I saw that a neighbour had set fire to a huge pile of shelterbelt trimmings and thick grey smoke was wafting across my south view. So much for doing a recce trip.

I carried on down a backroad until a gap opened up between shelterbelts. I set up the tripod and camera in the light of the 'blue hour' and watched as an unusual shaped cloudy white formation came into view, reaching out across the paddock towards me. Darn. Fog I thought, as I took a shot.

I checked the Live View on the back of my camera and to my astonishment a pale green 'starfish' came to life. Oh my giddy-aunt! This was indeed an aurora! If I have one big tip for photographers new to capturing the lights, never, ever assume what you're seeing isn't an aurora until after you've taken a shot or two.

The green waves rolled across the horizon and the 'pinwheel' looked like it was spinning on it's axis, a bit like those fairground rides with the seats on the end of each arm. I watched in awe not quite believing what I was seeing and wishing I had someone to share this spectacular sight with. Instead, all I got was a dozy possum wandering past. He stopped to glance in my direction and bolted off into the undergrowth when I said hello.

The reason it's taken so long to bring you this post is because once again it's been a long and slow task processing the photos. This wasn't helped by having a couple of hundred shots to check and finding that most of them were extraordinary! It was like watching the aurora all over again in slow-mo. Thanks to a few more processing tips offered by a member of the Aurora Facebook page I also managed the processing a little better than last time. 

These first few shots were taken in the blue hour hence the sky is a lot....well, bluer. But remember the camera sensor sees the intense colours that the naked eye doesn't. I've included a couple of 'naked eye' shots further down to keep things in perspective. I just know that there will be people out there who'll be extremely disappointed when they set their sights on seeing an aurora that looks like the many beautiful photos on the internet and in the media. 

Anyway, enough of the talk, here are a few of my favourite captures (with short explanations as I move around the Winton area). Sit back and enjoy, and watch for the shooting stars.

As the waves settled and 'arms' dispersed, an intense lime green rose above the horizon...

And then sparkling beams broke through and shot up into the heavens...

Here's a 'naked eye' view of the photo above. There was just a hint of green and a tinge of pink, but the swirls and movement, and the beams were very clear to the eye. 

Fog (real fog) started moving across the paddock from the nearby river so I headed away, looking for another clear view. I'd only moved a short distance when the sky lit up again. I quickly stopped and took more photos...

This time a curtain of cerise tinged beams reached from one side of the aurora to the other; far too wide for my wide angle lens (11mm) to capture. One of the downsides of being so close to the bottom of the South Island. To the left...

And the right. The fog also caught up with me.

I waited for the beams to quieten down a little before heading off again, along dark back country roads towards Riverton. I could see the aurora out the front window as I drove and when the beams stepped it up another notch, there was nothing for it but to pull onto the verge and shoot some more. 

Here's another 'naked eye' view of the aurora playing in front of me, the colour was now quite visible.

And here is a poor panoramic of the aurora- two photos stitched together. Have you ever tried to take consecutive photos, on a tripod, keeping the camera on the same plain when it's pitch black and you can see very little through the viewfinder? I really need to do some practice. I am in awe of astrophotogs, theirs is a tough row to hoe.  The orange light on the horizon is the glow from Invercargill city.

I decided that if I went any further, I'd likely miss more of the aurora and then not have time to find an ideal place on the coast near Riverton so I reluctantly turned around and headed back towards the main road and Winton. The aurora sparked off again as I neared Winton, I could actually see the beams dancing in my rear-vision mirror. I pulled over into a large lay-by on the main road. In my excitement I left the side lights on. This photo captured my tail lights and the beam of cars approaching.

The aurora once again stepped up another notch, bouncing across the sky in all it's splendour and in full view of approaching traffic from the north. I couldn't help but wonder if any of the cars actually saw what was happening in front of them. I wanted to shout out 'Stop. Look, look at this magnificent sight!'

Unfortunately vehicle headlights kept disrupting my shots so it was time to move again.

I ended up at a familiar spot, parked beside the Winton settlement ponds again, where I'd watched the last aurora 6 weeks ago. Here's another pano after the beams had settled a little.  Isn't that green just delicious. You can also see that blasted fog creeping in from the right again.

It wasn't long before the sky lit up. This aurora just keeps on giving. And I failed to see that there's a security light on a building behind me and across the road, it's lighting up the foreground. You don't actually see this in real life, it's quite dark but of course the slow shutter speed (4secs here) lets in all the light.

This time the beams rolled back and forward across the sky for a very long time. It was a truly amazing spectacle and once again I wished someone was there to share it with me. As the beams sparked and jumped into the heavens, I even shouted out to the nearby cows, 'WOW, did you see that?!"

Though, word had obviously got around that there was an 'once in a life-time' aurora happening because vehicles kept pulling up behind me AND NOT TURNING THEIR LIGHTS OFF! They'd stay for a few minutes and then head off again. Some didn't even bother to get out of the car! 

Now this one is a very bad pano but I mucked about with it too much to spend anymore time on it- the colours are a little too bright but at least you can see why this aurora was such a thrill to see.

And just when I thought I'd see it all, the curtain of beams dissolved and were replaced by several single bright beams shooting into the sky.

Some grew in size others died down. More cars arrived...and went.

I stayed on for awhile until the beams died down, and then it was time to head for home. For over three and a half hours I had an utterly amazing, magical and spectacular experience, viewing (and chasing) the beautiful Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights. May 28th, 2017 will be a night to remember for a very long time. It was also one of the best aurora nights many long term chasers had viewed as well. 

It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience (and a definite highlight) and I'm so happy it happened just before we left Winton. I think Him upstairs heard me bemoaning the fact that I hadn't seen a good aurora in six weeks- 'Let's put her out of her misery, one last fling and make it a good one', He said to Lady Aurora. I think I'm now well and truly hooked. 

And for those that want to capture an aurora, here's a few tips-

And just a note to let you know that I'll be off the grid for a few days so any comments or queries might not be answered straight away. 

Winton to Queenstown- Lake Hayes

Real-time,  two blog posts for the price of one today! We are out of range tucked up beside a tiny little lake just out of Queenstown (tucked up out of the weather too, we hope) and have come into town to get a few supplies and upload a couple of blogs.

After a ‘slight’ detour down to Winton two weeks ago, we said goodbye to the family on Friday and headed north again, back towards Queenstown. We had a lovely time but needed to leave them to it after their extremely busy first week back at school and work after the holidays.The weather was great, very mild and sunny for this time of the year and with spectacular sunrises and sunsets nearly everyday.

We took a picnic lunch to Dunsdale Reserve on one of the perfectly sunny days. The reserve is located in the Hokonui Forest Conservation Park a few kilometres inland from Hedgehope on the Winton to Gore highway. After passing through a pine forest on a typical forestry road of gravel, mud and corrugations, it was lovely surprise to find a beautiful green open park at the end of a the road, surrounded by native bush with a small river on the boundary. Self contained freedom camping is allowed here and I’ve heard that it’s a very busy place over the summer holidays. Today there was just one house truck and us.

There’s an easy 1hr return walk up one side of the river, passing a small waterfall on the way and through an open burn at the far end before returning down the other side of the river. Ollie managed to spot a large trout sheltering under the bridge at the top of the walk which spurred him on just in time, as he was getting tired.

The kids also had fun locating as many different birds as they could (when they stopped long enough to watch and listen) and there were plenty; fantails, tomtits, brown creepers, bellbirds and wood pigeons swooping and diving high above the trees. The bush is in mast this year and covered in a mass of colourful berries, both high and low, providing plenty of food for both birds and pests alike.  The red berries are on a pittosporum, the  translucent orange berries are hanging from the Myrtaceae shrub and the red berries with black caps in the two bottom photos are on Kahikatea trees.

For a bit of variety when we left Winton we took a different route, crossing the Oreti Plains through Wreys Bush, up to Mossburn, onto Five Rivers and then back onto SH6 through our favourites country towns of Athol & Garston and then on along the edge of Lake Wakatipu. It was about 20kms longer but the roads were nice and straight and with hardly any traffic.

We stopped just south of Athol at the old Fishermans Retreat Tea Rooms. I saw the autumn colours were just starting turn when we passed on our way south two weeks ago, so I was hoping they were still showing. The Tea Rooms look abandoned but just after I’d finished taking a few photos, smoke twirled up from the chimney and a fat ginger cat came out of the undergrowth towards me. Somebody must be living out the back.

With no strong winds and mild weather, many of the trees were still in their beautiful autumn colours. Behind the tea rooms are a row of ramshackle cabins, obviously where fishermen used to stay while fishing the local rivers (trophy trout rivers)- that’s the cabins in the top left photo. We continued on, stopping briefly at Athol so David could check a couple of things in the van. Never one to miss an opportunity, I quickly took some autumn shots of Athol’s St Bartholomew Church.

It’s a quick and…I was going to say smooth trip through the Devils Staircase alongside Lake Wakatipu, but that would be fibbing- the road along the lake is extremely lumpy with plenty of dips and rises where subsidence has been repaired. It felt like we were riding a roller-coaster!

Our destination is beautiful Lake Hayes, located in the rolling countryside of the Arrow Basin between Arrowtown and Queenstown. The lake is surrounded by golf courses, luxury houses, vineyards and lifestyle blocks. The Remarkables once again form a backdrop to some stunning scenery.

Lake Hayes has a small area where freedom camping is allowed for two nights only, and only between the signs. You can see the one beside us and the other one is at the far end. It’s also well known (or should be) that the Queenstown Lakes District Council rigidly police their freedom camping bylaw and rangers check the sites regularly.

There’s a walking (and cycling) track right around the lake which takes about 2-3 hrs to complete. It must be like the Mount walking track; it’s very popular and used regularly by locals for their daily exercise. A continuous parade of cyclists, walkers, pushchairs and dogs pass by our camp site. It’s very pleasant under the willows at the waters edge where there’s also a number of kayaks, canoes and paddleboards passing by.

By late afternoon a steady stream of sleeper-vans, campervans and motorhomes arrive to stay the night. The allowed space isn’t that big and would comfortably hold around 10 vehicles. By night fall there were 19 vans squeezed into the space, with a few of the smaller vehicles out the back under the willows. The two motorhomes to the right of us were outside the sign and I was worried for them. They have tried to park correctly but there is no space left (that’s when you need to find another park….or go to a campground). I know of someone that was fined for parking just outside the sign here.

There were also at least 10 other vehicles parked up for the night elsewhere in the reserve. They were either choosing to ignore the rules or were oblivious to them. More fool them. I’m not sure whether I slept through the visit on the first night or the ranger didn’t come but I know he came the next night at some un-Godly hour shining his torch on every vehicle and writing down registration numbers and checking self-containment stickers. I bet those that where elsewhere in the park woke up blissfully unaware that their numbers had been taken and a $200 fine was awaiting them when they returned home or returned their rental vans.

I was up early to catch the sunrise and found an old favourite down on the lake edge; two Australasian Crested Grebes calling to each other as they dived and fished in the shallows.

Sunrise over The Remarkables, you can see the ski field access road zig-zagging up the side- a bit of a necessary blight on the landscape.

Clouds gather over Queenstown at the end of the lake and a rainbow forms a perfect bow over the lake.

The pink sunrise glow quickly disappeared to be replaced by darkening storm clouds and big spots of rain. Thankfully it didn’t last long, which was just as well, as we only had one day to do one of our ‘must do’ road trips before we had to move on.

While we were getting ready for the day- I was cleaning my camera on the sofa and David was cooking his breakfast- I felt the van move. When I looked up, a woman had stepped up to our top step, and was holding onto the handrail, posing for a photo! The bloody cheek of it.

We often have people (mainly tourists) taking photos of the van or themselves in front of or to the side of the van but have never had someone be this rude, especially as our door was open (the screen door was closed) and we were inside. She got a short shift from me, I opened the door and said “EXCUSE ME….”  as she nearly fell off the step. Another lady came rushing over apologising profusely and then asked if she could have a photo taken! I was lost for words.

A group of about 15 people had arrived in three Jucy people mover rentals (thank God they weren’t sleeper vans), sped into the gap between our vans, tumbled out of all the doors, took dozens of photos down on the water front and under the willows, posing this way and that and then spread out around the remaining motorhomes taking photos. Then they all piled back into the cars and roared off. So keep your eye out for a marauding pack of shutter happy tourists who have no idea of personal space! I tell you, life on the road is never dull.

The rest of the day was taken up with a exhilarating drive through Skippers Canyon and visit to the remains of the Skippers gold field.

But you’ll have to wait for that blog, it deserves it’s own post.

It was another stunning sunrise the next morning but it soon clouded over.

We’d also had our two nights and it was time to move on. It’s a pity the council don’t allow three nights at Lake Hayes, this would give people two full days to do their activities. We still have a few things to do but we’ll wait until we come back through after we’ve been down to Glenorchy and Kinloch at the bottom of the lake.

We stopped at the top of the hill so I could take one last photo of what was left of the autumn colours. The willows have just about shed all their leaves and being such a dull day the colours weren’t so great.

Clutha Valley Autumn Festival Rally

Real-time

We had an awesome time at the Clutha Valley Autumn Festival Rally in Arrowtown last weekend; our second time at both this particular rally and the Autumn Festival. We don't usually 'do' rallies, mostly because we're always on the move but when they coincide with an event it's great because usually the rally is held close to the event and it's so much easier for transport and parking. And it gives us a chance to meet new people and catch up with others we've met on the road previously.

This year, the rally parking had shifted directly across the road and was located up a narrow track on top of a large plateau. The previous site had been purchased by Millbrook Resort and was in the process of being developed- last time I was asked if I'd like to take a helicopter ride over the site to take photos of the rally (like I'd say no). If you click on that link above you'll see more of the helicopter photos- this one shows the old site and the plateau with the track up the side.

Our friends, Amanda & Paul arrived with their 5th-wheeler ahead of us but were a little unsure of the track. It looked quite narrow and steep, although that wasn't so much of a problem as what was happening at the top- whether it opened out or had a tight bend in it. So we went ahead of them to check. Once we gave them the ok, they proceeded through the gate.

They then had to wait while a couple of vans left the site; Genny giving me a big wave on her way down (you'll see her pets further down). 

A small traffic jam formed as vans arrived and departed.

I took a few photos of Paul & Amandas' rig for them, as they came up the track.

As you can see their rig is just a little bit bigger than ours! With our doors facing each other we had a great little communal area between the two vans.

The site parking was great- flat, level and firm with lush grass but with a good dose of dried sheep poo (unlike the last time though, when I reckon the sheep were the size of cows going by the large and wet poo piles!) We managed to shovel most of it under the van so we didn't inadvertently walk it over the mat or inside when 'someone who shall remain nameless' forgets to remove their shoes.

There was plenty of space as we formed a big U shape- 59 vans at the last count but I know a few more arrived later in the evening and early on Saturday morning. 

The plateau overlooked Millsbrook Resort and part of the golf course, and across the Arrowtown Basin to the Remarkable Mountains behind which formed a beautiful backdrop to a stunning location. Behind us Coronet Peak rose above the pine forest; paragliders, having launched of the peak, drifted down on the thermals to land close by.  And all for $15- who needs one of those $3-4 million homes below!

There was no mucking about after 'Happy Hour' on the first night, once the sun dropped below the range a cold chill set in. Most retired to their vans for the night, with just a hardy few trying to keep warm below the gas heaters.

Heavy rain was forecast for Saturday but the weather Gods looked down on us. It rained hard for a few hours in the early hours and the morning dawned overcast, cold and wet underfoot, but rain free. And it stayed that way all day, brightening up by lunch time.

Our 'shuttle buses' were the same ones that transported us to the festival two years ago. They have quite a bit of local history attached to them; they were brought to New Zealand in 1942 and were part of a fleet of 6 that belonged to Routeburn Valley Motors, one of the first tourist operators in the region. They were taken to Kinloch at the head of Lake Wakatipu by the steamer SS Earnslaw where they transported trampers and visitors to the Routeburn Track (now a Great Walk).

The buses pulled out on their first round trip just after 9am, with just a short 3km trip into Arrowtown village.  

Two buses, three trips each and we were all delivered and ready to explore by the time the festival started at 10am. 

We were off-loaded in the dead centre of town. And promised a special surprise if we walked up the short path ahead of us- having been before I knew what to expect.

This was the view that awaited us at the top of the hill and beside the cenotaph (which must be the most scenic site in all NZ for the ANZAC service in 2 days time). Overlooking the tiny, historic village of Arrowtown in all its autumnal beauty. (The next blog will be on the the festival)

Many of the NZMCA members attending the rally had their pets (fur babies) with them. Alot of them live full time on the road with their masters too.

Here are photos of a few pets that were near our van- all well behaved and adorable to boot! The first two are cabin mates as are the last two...along with two cats!

I take my hat off to you Robyn & Ross, travelling with four pets takes dedication and a special kind of person. 

After the festival and the buses had delivered us all safety back to the site, we gathered for 'happy hour'...

...and the Clutha Valley guys cooked us BBQ sausages and chops. It was a pity the sun had gone down by the time everything was cooked, it was only a hardy few that stayed and ate their dinner outdoors. The rest scurried back to their toasty warm vans.

Many of the vans left on Sunday with just a few staying on until Monday, us included. We had a great evening with Amanda & Paul on Sunday night; polishing off another Pedros House of Lamb takeaway (we'd both already had one during the week prior, while waiting to shift to the Arrowtown site) It was just as delicious, if not a little more so, because we were sharing it with friends. No leftovers this time though!

By the time we had decided 'where to next' on Monday morning, there were just a couple of buses, a caravan and us left up on the plateau. 

We were both in two minds about where to head to after we left the rally. We had tentative plans to finish exploring down Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy before heading west to the lower West Coast.

It's a first for us, because even though David always says "Ask me tomorrow" when anyone asks where we're heading, we usually have a sketchy plan or place we have to be within a certain time which can dictate in which direction we need to head. After a bit of debating, and too-ing and fro-ing, we headed off down the track...

And south across the rickety one way bridge over the Kawarau River, with the Remarkables behind...

...stopping for lunch on the shores of Lake Wakatipu just south of the Devils Staircase...

...before pulling into a windy and bleak Lumsden NZMCA Park for the night.

We pulled out the next morning...

...stopping briefly to collect doughnuts and pies for lunch (from Lumsden's award winning bakery), and continued on heading south...

And that is how we found ourselves parked in our Winton family's driveway once again! Well, it is school holidays, and we were only a couple hours away, and once we leave this time, we might not see them for quite some time. 

Camera-phone shot- blurry! 

So much for heading north for winter!