Birding Bonanza, Stewart Island- Part 2

Continued...on from Part 1

One tour we definitely wanted to do while on Stewart Island was the night tour to see Kiwi in the wild. This would be our first sighting of a wild kiwi. We have spoken to many tourists on our travels who casually mention that they hope to see a kiwi in the wild while they're travelling. They are often a little taken aback when I tell them that probably 99% of New Zealanders wouldn't have seen a kiwi in the wild. 

"How can that be?" they ask, "The country revolves around the kiwi symbol, everywhere you look there are kiwi photos, souvenirs, signs, postcards and tours etc, even the people are known as kiwis" 

"Well..." I say, " that's just how it is, there are kiwi out there, they're not in great numbers but they are there, we often hear them calling at night when parked in isolated bush areas. But they are elusive and being nocturnal you'd normally be in bed when they come out to feed." Most still think they'll see one if they look hard.

And here on Stewart Island there is a chance you may see them during the day. Kiwi have been often seen on some of the more isolated beaches, down on the strand line looking for their favourite sandhoppers amongst the seaweed & floatsam. We also heard that they've been spotted occasionally near the paths on Ulva Island during the day. We decided we weren't going to chance it, even though we still carefully hunted for a kiwi when we were on Ulva, David did find kiwi footprints along one of the beaches. Personally I think many of sightings are of a weka bum disappearing into the bush; a rear end easily confused for a kiwi.

I'd booked a very popular kiwi spotting tour a month or so ago with Phillip Smith of Bravo Adventure Tours; for the 2nd night of our visit. I figured if it was cancelled we'd still have seven nights up our sleeve to do the tour. Which was just as well because after the rain and then the gale force wind, it was four nights before we finally got the go-ahead to meet at the Halfmoon Bay wharf for our tour. I felt sorry for a number of people we met who were only on Stewart Island for a night or two and missed the tour altogether. 

As the light faded, and a rain shower passed overhead, we boarded Wildfire along with eleven other people, all wrapped up warm, and headed out into the bay.

A White-capped Albatross which had followed a fishing boat in, turned and headed back out with us. This was the first close up encounter we'd had with the albatross. What magnificent creatures they are, stunningly beautiful and so sleek. It was a pity night was falling as I couldn't take too many photos of them as they whirled and swooped around the boat ever so gracefully.

We left Halfmoon Bay, rounded Ackers Point and headed into Paterson Inlet. Forty minutes later we sailed into Big Glory Bay, arriving at a jetty on a pitch-black night. 

Phillip gave a detailed talk on the various facts about the Stewart Island Brown Kiwi- Stewart Island is the only place in New Zealand where kiwis aren't considered endangered, it's thought there's a population of around 18,000 birds on the island. Stewart Island kiwis are quite different from their mainland relatives. They are diurnal, feeding during both the day and night, they also have a different family dynamic- the males share incubation and chicks stay with their parents for up to two years, much longer than on the mainland.

Greg, a crew member, hands out torches and tells us what to expect on our walk through the bush and over to the other side of the peninsula where hopefully we'll see some kiwi. Of course nothing is guaranteed but in over 26 years of doing these tours there has only been a handful of nights without a sighting. We're told in a firm voice that there are three rules- "No talking, no flash photography & no getting closer than I am to the birds". 

We scramble up off the jetty onto a narrow and muddy path and stride off quickly, following Greg single file through the bush, our torch lights showing the way. A quiet knock on low overhanging trees is fed back through the group to warn not to hit your head. We've been warned we might come across a sealion along the path but thankfully there are none camping in the bush tonight. We're heading to an ocean beach and very soon we can hear the pounding surf. We leave the muddy track behind and walk the final 250 metres along a boardwalk that has sunk into water in a few places. 

We finally reach the beach where we gather together to hear the plan. From now on there are to be no flashlights and definitely no talking, we're to stick close and follow Greg as he walks along the high tide line sweeping across the sand, back and forward, with his torch. A few minutes later Greg zeros in on some movement in the distance. A murmur goes up and then a quiet shhhhh as we creep in closer to see a curious looking creature shuffling about in the seaweed.

This is what we've come to see. A real live wild kiwi! Looking considerably smaller in the wide open space than her captive cousins, this is in fact, one of the larger kiwi species. Greg tells us later when we're out of her earshot that this is the matriarch of the family group whose territory takes in the beach. We followed her as she poked and prodded her way along the beach, stopping occasionally to snort the sand out of her nostrils (which are located at the end of her bill). 

After a few minutes Greg indicated we were heading off again further up the beach. We must have looked a funny sight, a silhouetted group of people huddled in close, striding it out, following a small circle of light along the sand. It felt like we were being route-marched along the beach; the sand was soft and tough to walk in and Greg walked fast; everyone wanted to get up close in case another kiwi was spotted and we were also wary there might be a sealion sleeping just outside the circle of light. Up to the top of the beach we marched and then back down again. Greg found a set of footprints and we tracked them to another kiwi.

This is another female and likely the matriarch's last year's chick. We watch her for a short while; she seems to be more aware of our presence and we don't want to scare her off. Time is up and we head back to the boardwalk entrance and as we re-group we hear a male kiwi calling from the nearby bush followed by a female returning the call. What a great way to finish the night.

You'll recall that no flash photography was allowed and all that is lighting the scene is one small torchlight from around 10 metres away, and all the while the bird is moving. I won't tell you how many shots I took (actually not too many; the shutter noise sounded like a machine gun going off in the quiet stillness) but just consider yourselves very lucky to see these two of the kiwi. Especially when the others on board who had cameras failed to get anything but a black square or a dark brown blur. It sure was a tough assignment. But at least I have the evidence and I knew what to expect. I was just thrilled to have finally had the privilege of seeing our treasured national icon in the wild.

We traipsed back along the path, hoping we might still see another kiwi, we were told they sometimes feed along the track. It was quite ironic, but all we saw (the first three people in the line including me) was a possum scurrying off into the bush. The French lady behind me couldn't believe she missed seeing her first possum.

Skipper Phillip was waiting back on board with welcome cups of tea and coffee. The boat headed off into the inky blackness, it's passengers buzzing with excitement inside, while Greg took a break out the back.

Another bird ticked!

To be continued....Part 3

Pukaha Mount Bruce

Pukaha Mt Bruce is a wildlife centre that runs an active breeding programme for New Zealand's rare & endangered native birds & reptiles. As avid birders we wanted to visit the centre on our way south, it was the main reason we choose to take SH2 to Wellington. The 942 hectares Mt Bruce reserve is the largest remnant of ancient forest that once stretched stretched  from Masterton to Norsewood. An extensive & continuous pest control programme had dramatically increased the population of birds in the forest including many of our endangered species; this involves over 130km of trap lines through the forest, 1000 bait stations for possums & rats and 500 traps for stoats & ferrets.

A pair of kakariki (red crowned parakeet) cosy up in one of the flight aviaries; they have already fledged five chicks this season & from this display I would say there will be more before the summer ends.

We arrived at 10am and even this late in the day the forest was alive with bird song. There are numerous large flight avaries near the entrance to the park along with a kiwi house. Many of  Mt Bruce's captive bred birds are released at other pest free sanctuaries around New Zealand, including Boundry Stream in Hawkes Bay & Tiritiri Matangi Island in the Hauraki Gulf.

One bird I was very keen to see was Manakura the rare white North Island Brown Kiwi. Manakura is two years old & is not albino, she is white because her parents have a rare recessive gene. In fact there have been two white kiwi hatched at Mt Bruce & there are likely to be more. Manakura was feeding in the kiwi house but spent quite a bit of time aggressively chasing a normal brown kiwi around the enclosure. No flash was allowed in the darkness of the make believe night time forest floor so this is what I got. A little more than what I heard a Canadian wife telling her husband he captured- “It’s totally black, you’ll have to go back & try again!”

We stopped by the tuatara display to watch a keeper feed the male & female a locust each, their only meal for the next 3 days. Tuatara spend most of their day staring into space hence the reason why they live to such a ripe old age & don't need much to eat. This pair are around 65 years old & all going well will live to be at least 150 years of age. Tuatara are rare, medium-sized reptiles found only in New Zealand. Most New Zealanders know that the tuatara is as ancient as the dinosaurs and a species that hasn’t changed in over 200 million years.

Next we watched one of the latest batch of kiwi chicks being force fed his dinner. This little guy has held out for 64 days, he is yet to get the hang of how you do it by yourself. Any day now the keepers are hoping that he’ll work it out so he can join his fellow new season chicks in the pre-release aviary in preparation for being moved to one of the numerous kiwi sanctuaries around New Zealand when he reaches one kilo in weight. At this weight he will be able defend himself against most predators & stands a good chance of reaching adulthood.

Isn't that the most cutest fluff ball you ever did see?

David decided to do the hour & half walk to a lookout at the top of the reserve but because of my feet I decided it might be a bit too much for me to cope with so I stayed behind to watch over 30 kaka fly in from all over the reserve to a feeding station. The kaka is a large parrot similar to the kea and just as destructive & comical. They are a beautiful dark glossy olive brown colour with a hint of iridescence and bronze with a splash of beautiful deep red coloured feathers under their wings.

The kaka have a wide vocal range, the bush & sky filled with their squawks, clucking & shrieks. Their keen acrobatics kept me entertained for nearly an hour as they swooped in low and long through the paths scaring a few people who were unaware of how close they were to their heads. They also chased each other through the bush & from branch to branch, some even ended up tussling on the ground.

We both enjoyed the visit although I think we’ve been spoilt a little by visiting so many other sanctuaries that aren’t quite so commercialized & involve avaried birds albeit for a good purpose. The kaka were the highlight for me & I was thrilled to see Manakura & the kiwi chick being fed. Hopefully somewhere down south, either Stewart Island or on the West Coast we will see a kiwi in the wild.