Journey To The Top

Catch-up

We left Tokerau and the beautiful Karikari Peninsula heading north once again, north on our way to the very tip of the North Island. I'm sure every Kiwi has a pilgrimage to Cape Reinga on their 'must do once in a lifetime' bucket list. I know it's certainly on many overseas visitor's list going by the amount of tour buses, rental cars and campers we pass on the road.

The trip to the top for most people usually involves travelling part of the journey along 90 Mile Beach (which, despite the name, is only 55 miles long) but of course with the 5th-wheeler on the back this wasn't going to be an option for us. Although having experienced the beach and the access points later in our visit, we decided we could quite easily take the rig along the sand. We had a quiet chuckle imagining the looks on people's faces as we sailed by (literally if it was high tide!). 

We'd decided to drive to the top, stay in the DOC campground near Cape Reinga for a few days and then explore more slowly on our way back down the 100km long Aupouri Peninsula-the finger of land that forms the top of the North Island.

Of course this didn't mean we weren't able to stop along the way so I could add a few more church photos to my collection; the first one just outside Kaitaia; St Josephs Anglican Maori Church built in 1887.

The Seven Day Adventist Church at Te Kao has seen better days but I've included it here because I wanted to tell you a funny story about taking this photo. Well it is funny now, but at the time it wasn't, it was the most scariest thing I've experience on this journey of ours.

David had pulled up just off the road edge in front of a couple of rural houses. The church was on the other side of the road so I got out, crossed the road and took a few photos and then made my way back over the road and behind the rig to walk up to the front and my passenger door. As I walked around the back of the van this large barking, snarling, teeth bared mongrel of a dog burst out the open gate of one of the houses, charging straight for me.

I have never moved so fast in all my life, I took off down the side of the rig yelling for all I was worth and hoping David would see or hear me and do something, though I'm not sure what. As I reached my door I yanked it open but I was travelling too fast to leap inside so I kept running, pulling the door wide open and jumping behind it. I then shoved the door back & forward a few times like a shield, shouting and screaming at the dog.

By now a guy had also come charging out his gate shouting at the dog (which took not one bit of notice). David's looking at me through the gap in the door like, 'what the hell are you doing, crazy woman?', not having seen or heard anything until I wrenched the door open. Thank God the dog must have thought where did she go and stopped in his tracks and started sniffing around the rear tyre of the ute and then disappeared behind the ute and out onto the road. I leap into the ute and slammed the door and David quickly pulled out. I didn't look back but I can tell you the heart & adrenaline were pumping for many miles afterwards. Now instead of David calling out watch for traffic when I get out to take photos, he's taken to saying check for dogs too!

We stopped again just a couple of miles up the road when I saw one of my 'must have' churches ahead of us, the distinctive Ratana church at Te Kao. I've had this church on my list for a very long time and it was great to actually see it in the flesh. And this time I had a good look around before I opened the door.

Further on we had another exciting but much tamer encounter, an emu! An emu just walking along the fence line through a scrubby paddock beside the highway. Emu farming was a new enterprise back in the 1990s but difficulties in getting the birds slaughtered soon caused a decline in the industry. During that time some birds had escaped their fenced enclosures, others were kept as domestic pets and it has also been rumoured that some farmers released their birds to roam wild.

Sightings of random emus has been reported in many areas around Northland & the Far North and in fact this was my 3rd sighting of a bird. I'd seen one near Kawakawa and another near Tauranga Bay and although they didn't look fenced in, I couldn't be sure as it was a fleeting glance as we drove past. This one though was the closest I'd seen and in an area where it could wander at large so it definitely wasn't a captive bird.

As we drew closer to the top of  peninsula, the landscape opened up; big skies, rolling farmland intermingled with swathes of native scrub and bush, dune lakes, wetland swamps and out on the edges huge golden sand dunes. 

Five kilometres before we reach the top we turned right down a narrow dusty gravel road...

....that drops down through the manuka scrub into Tapotupotu Bay and the DOC campsite we'll be staying at for the next few days.

At the bottom we're greeted by small sandy bay and a lovely golden sand beach tucked in between two headlands...

...and two camping areas- I call them corrals- one for campervans and the other for tents.

I can understand the tent corral, this DOC Camp is on the 48km Te Paki Coastal Walk and at the start of the 3000km Te Araroa Trail so tenters need some space of their own...

...but I have no idea why the powers that be would want to corral all the campervans & motorhomes together because...

...carry on around the corner and there is a huge amount of open space to camp, right on the edge of the estuary.

Which is where we set up...

...and two or three other clever clogs! I thought it was Kiwis that followed along like sheep. In fact I think it's because foreign tourists are sometimes unsure of what to do and where to go and don't want to do anything wrong so follow the leader.

There was plenty to see parked on the side of the estuary, the tide range was so great we were able to watch the lagoon fill and empty with each tide, bird watch out the back window and watch boaties come and go...

...including this group of guys who had a lot of fishing gear set up on their jet skis. In fact they were doing some filming for a TV programme one guy told David as his drone whizzed about around the estuary.

We saw them later in the afternoon when we visit Cape Reinga, far out at sea. We watched them skirt around the outside of the islands off Cape van Diemen and then pass around Cape Reinga as they headed back to Tapotupotu Bay, again way out so as to miss the turbulent waters below us where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. You can see to tiny splashes of white, centre right in the first photo, they were just tiny dots and we would have missed them had we not known they were out there.

The camp, estuary, stream and mangrove margins were ideal for bird watching- here are a few of the usual suspects; clockwise- A Eurasian Skylark, an epic struggle between a male Sparrow & a Grasshopper, not a bird but just about as big, a Giant Bush Dragonfly, a female Ring-necked Pheasant, a Black Shag and a Welcome Swallow.

This rather plain but dainty little lily was flowering along the edges of the tracks, and through all the thick grasses, it's not a native and I've not seen it before. 

I was up early every morning to search out two specific and very secretive birds. The sunrises weren't quite as spectacular as I had been capturing but still lovely as the suited the subdued surroundings.

I had managed to spot two Banded Rail/Mioweka from the kitchen window, they were across a wide expanse of exposed sand feeding amongst the mangrove air roots along the edge of the stream that fed out to sea at low tide.

They were very quick to disappear into the mangroves and tussock behind at the slightest movement from our side of the estuary though.

Click photo to enlarge- two Banded Rail centre

I did manage to sneak up on them once but only took a fleeting photo as one of them flashed past. I didn't mind though. After my very first sighting and taking a couple of good photos at Whangaparoa's Shakespear Park, then another sighting at Sandspit, this was my third sighting up north so I was just pleased to see them once again.

I knew there were Fernbirds/Matata about when I heard their distinctive clicking calls as I was walking along the boardwalk and over the bridge near our campsite. 

Often heard but rarely seen, Fernbirds aren't quite as shy as the Banded Rail but they are just about as impossible to find because they move fast, skulking through the dense vegetation at ground level and seldom poking their head out of the greenery. 

'You looking for me?'

But they are nosy and if you sit quietly in the middle of their territory watching for the slightest of movements in the reeds or thick scrub around you they'll often poke their head out or jump on to an open branch nearby to check you out. But as quick as a flash they'll be gone again. 

If they have a mate nearby or feel threatened they can also call briefly from the top of a nearby bush, but they'll disappear just as quickly to appear again not much further on, atop the next bush. 

We explored along the boardwalk and track (part of the Te Paki Coastal Walk) up into the bush over the hill on the other side of the estuary a short distance...

...and then along a 4WD track that followed the Tapotupotu Stream deeper into the valley behind the camp. It would be great kayaking quietly up this backwater, we flushed a number of different birds but the dense undergrowth made it hard to spot them.

Each day, as the tide went out I also watched from the window a pair of beautiful steely grey Reef Herons/Matuku Moana stalking prey along the receding waterline. They were very wary too and I only got a little closer to them by putting a bush between them and me and then quietly sneaking up on them using the bush as cover.

Looking like stealth bombers, with wings flattened out to keep their profile low and to help them see fish in the shadow, they carefully paced up and down the water's edge...

...until they spotted a hapless fish which, with lightening fast speed, they caught and swallowed.

Even though I suspect the reef herons were a pair, one of them did not like the other to be within sight and they both did not like the local White-faced Heron/Matuku feeding or flying by either. The dominant Reef Heron spent a lot of his time chasing the other one away and they both chased any nearby gulls and the White-faced Heron away. He just flew up to his favourite tree stump and laughed at them.

Beach Hop South- Te Paerahi Beach (aka Porangahau Beach)

Real-time

We left Taniwha Daffodils and headed back towards Waipukurau, turning off just before town to join up with Porangahau Road, the road that's going to take us to our next beach destination; Te Paerahi Beach (aka Porangahau Beach). I warned David that we'd be needing to stop somewhere along the road at a very important place. I wasn't too sure when that would be though as my map book didn't show the place name. 

So it was a lovely surprise when 'Wanstead' popped up in front of me on Mr TomTom, and then to see the church (above) appear around the next corner. This is the Wanstead Presbyterian Church and I have no idea if I've ever visited it before but of course I took photos of it for my files.

The reason I have no idea if I have visited the church before is because I lived in Wanstead, a very long time ago. In fact I always say I was born in Wanstead but that's not quite right, I was born in Hastings and not long after, Dad got a job shepherding on the McNutt family farm on Porangahau Road at Wanstead, and Mum, Dad and baby Shellie shifted south.  And it's only after uploading this photo (which I've seen a thousand times) I suddenly see the turkeys in a new light! All will be revealed in the next post.

Shellie at Wanstead 17 months

After taking the church photos we also stopped at the historic (former) Wanstead Hotel which is now a private residence. I wonder if Dad used to visit the hotel after work. Or perhaps he was too busy and with a new family had to save his pennies. I'll have to ask him.

Pleased to have seen something of Wanstead we carry on towards the coast. It's not long before we're slowing down as we approach the Porangahau River bridge at the entrance to the small bustling metropolis of Porangahau, where the dairy lists it's goods by their Maori names (that's a first for me)... 

...and the Duke of Edinburgh Hotel has got to be one of the biggest country pubs I've ever seen! I bet this place can tell a few stories and it looks like it's another grand old building with an uncertain future. I love the tractor in the carpark too, on his way home and he's stopped in for a beer (or iced tea).

We pass through town and out the other side, we still have 8kms to travel before we reach the beach. The moody sky we had at the daffodils is still around and makes the perfect backdrop to Porangahau's St Michael & All Angels Anglican Church.

A sign points us to the freedom camping area when we arrive at the beach. What a great spot, out on the grass or under the pines, there's plenty of space and choices. I wish more beaches had places like this- there are toilets if required (clean and tidy) and fresh water available too! And it's free, although you can leave a donation which I'm sure would be greatly appreciated. 

Holiday homes and baches line the road behind us and there are a number of permanent residents in the settlement including a few fishermen.

We have the camping area to ourselves and we settle in against the fence that separates us from the day parking area. 

A sandy track crosses the dunes to the beach in front of us. A passing quad bike rider photo bombs my shot as I head down to the beach.

Te Paerahi beach has a rugged, remote feel about it and it's wild and windy when we arrive. I'm hoping the sun will make an appearance in the morning and I can explore it further.

It took two days but finally the sun came out and so did the people. It was warm with a sea fog rolling in. At first I thought it was sea spray but there was no wind and it moved about across the beach, really pea soup in places, thin and wispy elsewhere and disappearing altogether occasionally. I walked to the rocks at the far end of the beach where I found a couple of surfcasters fishing and catching kawhai.

I'm not so sure I'd take my flash car down onto the wet sand like this couple did, I suspect they were townies- possibly new immigrants- and they wanted to try out driving on the beach like the sign said they could. Round and round, up and down they drove. I hope they washed it down when they got home.

I decided to walk north along the beach right the way to the top of the spit, where the Porangahau River enters the sea. I'd seen a variety of  beach vehicles heading that way over the past few days and thought they might be fishing. The sea fog made it difficult to see where I was heading, but it was low tide and the sand was firm down by the water making it easier to walk. The outline of a tractor came into view through the mist. 

A resident fisherman had a private sandy track through the dunes from his house, all he had to do was back the tractor down to the water and launch his boat. We'd heard him struggling to get the boat through the surf earlier in the day, at first we thought it was quad bikes revving and doing donuts on the beach but it was the boat as the guy fought to get clear of the waves. This tractor looks to have had a hard life.

I followed tyre marks and footsteps along the sand. And kept thinking, everytime the fog lifted a little,  that I could see quad bikes and people fishing off a bank way ahead of me. The shapes eventually turned out to be lumps of driftwood and I never did see anyone. I have no idea where everyone disappeared to.

I eventually found the river when I saw a gap in the trees, I walked across a vast amount of sand towards the water. I thought I might follow the edge of the river up to it's mouth and find those mysterious people. 

But all I found was the river disappearing into the sand. This is the mouth of the river and at low tide it ends at the high tide mark. What a disappointment that was. I gave up, perhaps there's a lagoon of some sort further on but I wasn't going looking. I turned around and headed for home.

I thought I might have seen a few seabirds along the beach or perhaps a few waders near the river but all I came across was this pair of Variable Oystercatchers who didn't look at all surprised when I appeared out of the mist beside them. 

After a long walk back and just as I was looking for the track that led up to our van, I heard a bike approaching. I'm not so sure I like it when you can't see what's happening around you. I didn't see their movement until they were well passed me. Needless to say I think I'll give sea fog a miss the next time I come across it.

A few motorhomers had lunch on the foreshore reserve or went for a beach walk but none came to stay in the camp. We did a day trip over to Blackhead Beach (more on that in another post) and in the end stayed 3 nights and had a lovely relaxing time. Porangahau is another beach we'd happily return to.