Molesworth to Marfells

Catch-up

After six nights and a fabulous time at Molesworth's Cob Cottage Camp it was time to head up the Awatere Valley and back out to civilization.

I'd highly recommend a visit to Molesworth Station. If you can see past the gravel road and the continuous clouds of dust, the DOC camps at either end of the Molesworth/Acheron Road make a great base from which to explore the area. And especially if you are over-length (7 metres) and have a separate vehicle to travel in.

We left Molesworth on another stunning blue sky day; finally we seem to have hit the jackpot and managed to have a perfect week of fine sunny weather. 

How is this for love (and a full quota of brownie points earnt)? Not far up the road, David stopped the rig to clean the windscreen for me. Just so I don't get dust spots and splattered bugs in my photos.

It's just a pity he does it BEFORE we round a corner and have to follow this guy for a distance. It takes the grader driver at least a mile before he sees us in the mirror and pulls off the road to let us pass. 

Meanwhile we lament the fact that he is grading the road as we leave and not as we came in over all the corrugations and potholes! Now David has to decide where to drive the rig, the grader has done one side only and pushed great clogs of dirt and debris into a ridge on our side of the road- although along in this photo it's quite smooth.

And now, with all loose gravel and exposed dirt, comes great billowing clouds of dust ten times worse than anything else we've seen on the road. All the dust David washed off in camp is now settling back into every nook and cranny. Thankfully the grader is doing the road in sections and after about ten kilometres we pass his parked ute and can see where he's started. We're then back to corrugations and potholes.

We travel a little faster back up the valley; there's no need to stop as often to take photos. Along the way we pass a local farmer and his mate who obviously likes to see where he's heading...

 ...and several groups of kamikaze sheep, who leap out from the bushes just as we're passing.

We head over Upcot Saddle and wind our way down into the valley below and then up the other side... 

...before pulling over onto a small gravel patch high above the river for lunch. Which is just as well as two vehicles round the corner ahead of us, the only two vehicles that pass us on our way out (click photo to enlarge). 

Far below we spot the farmer spraying weeds- can you see him?

After lunch we carried on through the gorge...

...back across the rock slide that came down in the 2016 Kaikoura earthquake and blocked the road for several days...

...then we make a quick photo stop at the historic Taylor's Pass Cemetery, which is tucked into a small clearing surrounded by vineyards.

Before we're back onto the main highway and heading south towards the DOC camp at Marfells Beach,  a regular stop of ours before the Kaikoura earthquake, but one we'd not been back to since. It was a strange sight to see these signs along the way (and very little traffic on the road). It's not often that a closed sign appears on New Zealand's main state highway but come next Friday, 13 months later and for the very first time since the 'quake the signs will say 'open' once again as SH1 reopens after major repairs and much hard work by contractors.

Marfells Beach was quite busy and a couple of our regular sites were taken so we found a gap between the scrub and backed 'Out There' in on a slight angle to give us a bit of protection from the prevailing wind...

...and a little bit of privacy from the road. 

We'd heard that there had been a lot of changes to the seabed and beach after the 'quake but from our vantage point and first sightings- except for the wild flowers and seeding spinach, we must have come a lot earlier on other visits- it all looked the same. 

Some had mentioned that the beach was a lot sandier than before and I actually do think it was, on the surface anyway, but it still looked much the same as it did before the 'quake. 

This photo was taken 5 months before the 'quake-

And this one is 12 months after. The high tide line look similar or within cooey but there definitely was a lot of surface sand blowing in the strong westerly that arrived the day after us. The dust of Molesworth was soon replaced with sand from Marfells!

Marfells (and Marlborough in general) always puts on a few spectacular sunrises...

...and fiery sunsets for us, and they didn't disappoint on this visit either.

We also had a visit from this small plane one evenings, he flew in low right along the beach before turning and coming into land, taxiing up to where we were standing outside the van, giving us a wave, then turning and roaring off down the beach before taking off again. Not the usual sight we see on the Marfells Beach.

Next- 
Dramatic photos of Mussel Point before and after the 'quake.

Molesworth- Part 1; The Road In

Real-time

Well, no need to tell you I'm behind again in my blogs, but I thought I'd do the Molesworth blogs first because I know there are a few people eager to read about our visit to the Crown owned high country Molesworth Station; the largest farm in New Zealand at 180,787 hectares.

Under the stars

The Molesworth Station/Acheron Road has been on our 'must do' list ever since we started this journey and in fact we have been foiled in our attempt to drive it three times over the last couple of years. Being a high country road and subject to weather, especially during winter, the road is only open from Labour Weekend in late October through to Easter weekend/April each year. 

The road was closed due to high fire risk the first time we had it planned, the 2nd time we had to drive straight past to attend a family gathering and the third time the Kaikoura earthquake closed the road. 

We very nearly didn't make it this time either when a flood washed out the approach to the Clarence River Bridge at the Hanmer Springs end of the road. But, as luck would have it we (read I), only wanted to join the dots and we'd made it to the Clarence Bridge a couple of months ago while in Hanmer. That was a fluke as well, you may remember, we delivered a car to the bridge for a couple of kayakers we met in the snow out the back of Hanmer. And as you'll find out in due course there was very nearly a fourth time.

Anyhoo enough of my prattling on, let's get on with the road trip, we had 100kms to travel down the Awatere Valley and seventy of them were on gravel. Caravans, buses and vehicles over 7 metres aren't allowed on the actual Molesworth/Acheron Road but you can take them to the Cob Cottage DOC campground at the start and explore the road in your tow vehicle or 'toad'.

World famous Marlborough vineyards line both sides of  road for the first 30kms and then the brilliant yellow of the invasive broom takes over for a short time...

...until the seal runs out and we decide to stop for a very late lunch before we tackle the gravel. Blairich Reserve is one of two designated campsites along the valley, it's beside the river with a basic toilet and several areas to park. Although it was more like a track through the willows down to the river (David had some fun and games turning the rig around when we ran out of track) but in the end it was very pleasant in the cool shade under the brilliant green of the new willow leaves.

The road follows the Awatere River for most of the way, as we weave our way into the high country, climbing over bluffs, winding around hills and then dropping down into small valleys where farm buildings are tucked into sheltered corners. Occasionally we get a reprieve from the dust where the road has been sealed as it passes by a farm homestead or there's a sharp climb. Cattlestops are a regular occurrence; a good keen eye is needed to watch for wandering stock (or kamikaze sheep who burst out from under the matagouri scrub just as we're passing).

There are spectacular views of the river and rapids flowing through this gorge...

...as we navigate through a particularly narrow section of the road high above, where it looks like a slip has taken some of it out at some stage (perhaps the 'quake?); the rock slide reaches right down to river below.

Other than the constant dust swirling behind us...

...the road is generally in good condition, although having said that, there were a number of rough patches. 

I was excited to see dozens of Marlborough Rock Daisies clinging tenaciously to the cliff faces along the road, most of them with buds ready to burst into flower. Marlborough Rock Daisies, while plentiful in their habitat are only found in Marlborough.

After what feels like forever (for David anyway), we reach the halfway mark- it's 54kms to the Hodder Bridge which was built about 80 years ago and has been recently re-strengthened.

The bridge crosses the Hodder River (which flows into the Awatere) and has its headwaters in the Chalk Range, near Mt Tapuae-o-Uenuku, New Zealand's tallest mountain (2885m) outside the Southern Alps. 

Tapuae-o-Uenuku is a sacred mountain to Maori and is the prominent snow capped mountain that can be seen from many places as you travel along the coast in Marlborough. The mountain was shrouded in cloud on our trip down the valley but look, I prepared one earlier for you (actually later, I took it on the way out six days later). Mt Alarm(2877m) is in the middle and Mitre Peak (2621m) on the right (no not THAT Mitre Peak, this one is actually taller).

The second designated camp site in the valley is on the southern side of the bridge; a large flat grassy area with a nearby long-drop loo. 

We continue on, passing a few abandoned homesteads and crossing numerous smaller rivers and streams that feed the Awatere. 

I can see that the road winds it's way up the side of the hill ahead of us, a hill that actually turns out to be a mountain, although Mt Upcot is pretty small at 1031m.

This section of the road is full of corrugations and a more than steady climb.

It's very narrow and rough and I'm getting tossed about inside the cab as I try to take a photo...

And it's a long way down as we climb higher and I attempt to take a shot out the window...

Until we finally reach Upcot Saddle, where we stop and check inside the van (a first for us). It's all ship-shape and not for the first time, David comments on how good the suspension is in the 5th-wheeler, it seems to travel much easier on rough roads than the ute and it's occupants who feel every corrugation and pothole.

I walked back to a vantage point overlooking the road we've just come up to take a photo.

We're now in 'big country' with gigantic hills and deep valleys and we still have 30kms to travel. We pass several grand entrances to high country stations and across the valleys can see farm buildings, shelter trees and the brilliant green of cultivated land below the rugged slopes of the ranges.

It's about now that we're both starting to feel a little dust weary and it seems the distance left to travel isn't getting any shorter. We're averaging about 35-40kph and as I always say, one gravel kilometre feels like two, and by my reckoning we still have 40kms to go!!

The bridges are also getting a little more rickety...

Finally we reach a gate and the good people of DOC must know how we feel, they've given us a kilometre reading just to rally us along. Not far now, just 20kms....I mean 10kms. You can start to breathe easy again David (literally as well), we're nearly there. 

And look there's snow on the mountain ahead of us...

We're in the mountains now, the Inland Kaikoura Range now backs the Awatere River and the scenery is stunning.

We're passing through Muller Station, a farm that borders Molesworth on many boundaries. And the river is still a prominent feature, although smaller and with hundreds of brilliant green willows lining its banks. What a spectacular sight they would be in autumn. 

Finally we arrive at the gate into Molesworth Station, exactly four hours after turning onto the Awatere Valley Road (that includes all snack breaks and photo stops).

Just a few metres further on we catch our first glimpse of the historic Molesworth Cob Cottage. This will be our backyard for the next few days, the DOC campground surrounds the cottage.  

To be continued.... Part 2