Napier to Lake Tutira Return

Catch-up, we're back in the land of the living after a couple of weeks visiting two Hawkes Bay lakes, one of them twice! 

After 11 weeks and a whole summer in the Bay it was finally time to say a reluctant farewell to Mum & Dad. Although it was tempered quite a bit due to the fact that they were going to visit us at our next camp over the weekend and we'd see them again in July when we returned for a significant birthday and anniversary.

Joy in her Happy Place

Our first stop isn't too far north of Napier, just 40kms up State Highway 2. We'd arranged to have a final hurrah weekend with our Hawkes Bay family camping buddies, Joy & Kevin (they've been camping, along with Pam & Gerald, at Lake Tutira for over 40 years, Joy calls it her special place).

It was great news for us when Pam & Gerald were also able to join us. They were intending to head off on their own holiday but a change of plan meant they were still in the Bay.

Lake Tutira looked stunning on a typically calm, hot and sunny HB day.

The lake has had many issues with water quality and algal blooms over the years but we all had to admit that it was looking the best its ever done with lovely clear water, happy birds and no dead fish, gunge and muck along the shoreline. The Regional Council has been working hard to sort the ongoing problems out. Because of a unusual quirk the inlet and outlet to the lake are virtually side by side at the north end, so the lake doesn't flush as a lake would normally do.

Here are a couple of photos from a visit to the lake a few years ago; it looks absolutely stunning in autumn too.

We all arrived within the hour, circled the wagons and set about relaxing. The only problem was in an effort to give us all some shade; it was a scorcher of an afternoon, we managed to commit the cardinal sin of failing to check the TV reception! 

Because we were going to be staying longer we parked up first. Actually, I did check it and David did inch forward and back trying to get a direct line but the outer edge of the leafy trees just kept getting in the way. In the end we decided we didn't need TV over the weekend and we'd move once the others had left on Sunday.  David had other ideas though, and after some of us went for a walk, we returned to find David had moved 'Out There' further into the shade but now with a direct line of reception. No need to move now....hmm, famous last words!

Family friends arrived for happy hour and a BBQ late Friday afternoon but before we could imbibe Joy and Kevin route-marched us off on a bush walk. Thank God they weren't about to make us head up to Table Mountain trig.  Instead we did a nice easy loop through a bush gully, past the bottom of the trig track which went straight up, and back along a small ridge overlooking the lake (although I'm not so sure Heather thought it was easy- that's her taking a breather on the sign post!).

When I looked out early the next morning a thick cover of fog blanketed the lake and campsite; it was cold and miserable so I headed back to bed. The next time I looked out, I just about fell over myself trying to get something decent on and grab my camera to catch the mist in the sun rays. It was gone in a flash.

There's also another good short walk around the edge of the much smaller Lake Waikopiro which is right beside Lake Tutira. Lake Waikopiro has also had water issues over the years but within the last year an air curtain has been installed to help aerate the lake. 

And it seems to be working, like Lake Tutira the water was also clean and clear. So clear we could see plenty of huge carp lazing in the shallows. We all thought they were trout to begin with, we were quite a way from and looking down on them. Both of the fish photos below are zoomed in. It wasn't until we saw the photos up close that we could see the large scales and wide flat heads of the carp. As a pest eating the oxygen weed and small trout, they'll have to go eventually too.

You can see the 'curtain' of air bubbles in the top right photo. 

How do you like my 'curtain of bees'?! They were there all day, I guess the queen was in there somewhere.

Sunday morning also dawned with a thick layer of fog over the lake. This time I got up and dressed and made my way down to the lake edge just as it started to lift. No show without Punch; I was trying for a still reflective shot of the raupo (swamp reed) but the swans followed me along, disturbing the water as they came.

My peaceful early morning was shattered when I heard a whole lot of yelling coming from the thick mist. This lady in her kayak appeared out of the gloom shouting to her partner in a nearby bus to take a photo. The mist lifted before he managed to get it together. 

The lakes and reserve are a wildlife refuge and there are a good number of birds to be seen including a large flock of turkeys on the farmland behind the camp. A family with 4 chicks spent much of their day away from the flock and down near the lake. Both adult birds looked like females (the large gobbler who I assume would be the father was with the flock, often standing guard on a rock overlooking them grazing). I'm now wondering if one of these adults is a older daughter or sister of the other adult. I can find no information on whether a caregiver helps the mother with the chicks away from the flock.

Other birds in the set are, from top left- Black Swan, Pied Stilt and a Kereru/NZ Wood Pigeon feeding on the seeds of a native Cabbage tree.

I was excited to locate several very shy Dabchicks/NZ Grebe/Weweia on both lakes. This photo is zoomed in and heavily cropped, they disappeared underwater as soon as they spotted me or any movement.

A family of Black Swans kept me entertained in camp; after swimming and feeding in the lake for most of the morning they would slowly graze their way up the grass bank, across the track and through the gates into our camping 'paddock'. They'd gradually make their way haphazardly, but in a loose group- Dad was keen to sort anyone out who got to close- to the back of the paddock feeding and resting as they went. But come 7pm and just before the light failed, Dad, Mum and five nearly grown signets would march in single file all the way back to the lake.

Every night we were there. You could set your clock by them. 

Mum & Dad arrived for lunch on Sunday and once again, before we could eat, Joy marched us off on a walk; this time a little shorter and an easier walk for our older guests. A small promontory juts out into the lake not far from camp, Oporae Pa is an old Maori pa and you can see why it was chosen; surrounded on 3 sides by water, a natural defense and with 360 degree views, they could easily spot approaching strangers. There was also a moat on the 4th side and a bridge for access.

The view from the pa site back to camp, our vans are hidden in the trees to the right of the vehicles (remember to click on the photos to enlarge).

We said our final farewells to everyone as they all left for their homes back in Napier late on Sunday afternoon. We shout out the family saying 'Thank God they've gone!!' as each one leaves camp although it doesn't quite have the jovial ring about it this time.

We've had such a ball with our motorhoming families this visit; camping at Oceanbeach, Kuripapango, happy hours at Art Deco, regular family gatherings and lunches and one last camp here at Lake Tutira. We will miss the familiar company and easy going lifestyle that comes with camping with family. But I'm sure it won't be long before we meet up again, especially now that we're in the North Island for awhile.

In fact David has to head back into Napier for the day on Tuesday morning, a CV joint failed on the ute sometime over the weekend and he's made an appointment at Ford to have it fixed. I'll stay back at Lake Tutira with the 5th-wheeler. Luckily, it's happened now and not somewhere remote up the coast.

On Monday David and I headed into the hills behind Lake Tutira, to Boundary Stream, a Mainland Island bird sanctuary (an area protected from pests and predators). We've visited Boundary Stream a few times, once coming in from Glenfalls and the Mohaka River at the other end of the road.

Napier's Scinde Island (Bluff Hill) can just be seen way off on the horizon.

We hadn't intended to visit the sanctuary this time, just visit the other end of the reserve to check out the highest waterfall in Hawkes Bay, Shine Falls. But Pam & Gerald had been up to the reserve the day before and been ambushed by the recently released kaka (native parrot). Pam got some good photos so I thought we might see them up close too. 

Unfortunately we only saw one bird and it was up in the trees. We did the short loop walk, hoping they might have returned to the feed station by the time we got back. But the only movement I saw was under the feed platform; a cheeky wee mouse scuttling around (bottom left photo). We did see all the regular native birds though, including a North Island Bush Robin (top right) and also a few dozen Red Admiral butterflies feeding on honeydew produced by the beech tree scale. Several wasps were also feeding on the dew and harassing the butterflies.

On the way back to camp we stopped at the Lake Opouhai kiwi creche. The small lake and surrounding bush reserve has a predator proof fence around it. Kiwi chicks are released here until they reach a certain weight and can fend for themselves against a predator when released into the outside world.

Back at camp the weather took a turn for the worse, the wind picked up and heavy rain began to fall. Suddenly we were all on our lonesome and the camp looked utterly miserable. And now with serious rain fade on our TV signal it looked like it was going to be a long night without the internet and TV.

We made the hasty decision to hitch up and head back to Napier. That way David could also get to Ford early without having to drive the 40kms from the lake. So through torrential rain and heavy traffic we wound our way back up and over the hills, back to Napier.

And that was how 'Out There' found herself back here at the Ericksen Road NZMCA Park! Will Napier ever let us go...

Lisa & the Lilybank- MacKenzie Country

Lisa, who lives in Dunedin and is a friend from a photography forum I belong to, had indicated she’d like to meet up with me while we were in the MacKenzie Country. Initially Lisa was hoping we’d be able to meet near Omarama so we could shoot the ‘Clay Cliffs’ at sunrise but unfortunately we hadn’t moved that far south and Lisa was only able to get away from work and family for just the one night on the weekend we shifted to Lake McGregor. I told her I was sure we’d still find plenty to shoot including the Patterson Ponds which she was keen to visit. Unfortunately the wind returned with force and overnight rain had fallen in the foothills of the Southern Alps.

I met Lisa in town and she followed me out to the Ponds, both of us getting hammered along the canal road, the wind bufferting the vehicles as we fought to hold them on the road. We stopped to take photos as we approached the ponds and were very nearly slammed against the vehicle as we fought to stand upright.

Fork Stream which passes under the Tekapo Canal and exits into the normally placid trickle which is the Tekapo River was now a roaring grey torrent. The lupins I had seen the other day gracefully swaying in the breeze along the edges and on an island were now swallowed by the murky swirl.

Further on, the Ponds, which are fed by Tekapo River, are flooded and windswept and looking totally different to out autumn visit. We decide there's no point in driving down the rough track to check them out…

…but after turning around and heading back along the canal, we do wind out way down to the stream outlet where a torrent of water tumbles out from under the canal bank. Nearby lupin flowers are being battered by the wind and their roots are being undermined by the water. A flock of whirling and diving Black Fronted Terns periodically land on the numerous islands in the middle of the flow, some fly overhead warning us away. There are chicks and nests on the islands and some have probably already perished in the flood.

After grabbing a few quick shots we head back to the canal road, Lisa takes a short cut up the side of the bank following a deeply rutted and very rocky track, I travel the long way round. There’s no way I can risk the Ranger on a 4WD (capital letters!) track, it’s the main player in our travelling road show.

We’ve decided to head up Lilybank Road, the road that passes by the NZMCA Park. Lilybank Road is about 40kms long and follows the eastern shore of Lake Tekapo and along the base of Two Thumb Range, all the way to the top of the lake and beyond. It’s a road that David & I have yet to explore, even though we turn into it every time we visit Tekapo. Lisa takes the lead and we head for the hills.

Being behind I’m able to stop when I spot something interesting; the first is this sign between the skis for a ‘holiday home’. The Roundhill Skifield is located towards the end of the road and these cottages (I use the term loosely) are available to rent. I'm sure they would have been shearers quarters in their previous life as there’s a very large woolshed nearby. I hope there are photos on the accommodation websites they are advertised otherwise you'd get a big shock arriving for what you thought was going to be a luxurious romantic skiing weekend!

My next stop (Lisa has pulled over too) is at the lookout over Lake Tekapo towards the Motuariki Island, a small island about a third of the way up the lake. Back in September Motuariki Island was the site of a tragic event when a group of tourists hired kayaks to paddle about in the bay below the Tekapo township. Unfortunately, as is the case a lot of time on alpine lakes, the weather changed abruptly and blew the party- who had also ventured further out into the lake than they should have- into choppy waters and away from safety.

By the time the survivors were found and rescued off the island, two out of the 11 kayakers had lost their lives to the icy waters. One had made it safely to the island but returned to help his friends and succumbed to the cold.

We pushed on, Mt Erebus (2311m) and the surrounding Sibbald Range, loomed high ahead of us. The Godley River plain is just visable to the left and below the steep slope of Mistake Peak (1921m). David & I came close to the peak when we explored Godley Peak Road on the other side of the lake last week.

A little further on we come across the most amazing sight, a great swathe of brilliant yellow flowers sweeping down the Boundary Stream valley, under the road bridge and out to the shore of Lake Tekapo. Broom! Highly invasive and another aggressive pest plant that is a relative of the lupin, broom has taken over large areas of New Zealand countryside. There are two areas that come to mind when I see broom on this scale; broom once grew thickly along both sides the Napier-Taupo Road on the Rangitaiki Plains but I noticed when we passed through in October that most of it had been sprayed. The other area was alongside the Buller River near Kawatiri.

We cross the bridge and pull over to take photos…

…first of the wooden bridge with its unusual steel spans underneath…

And then of the broom itself. It’s obvious that the waterway has helped the broom disperse it’s seeds and kept the plant watered as the surrounding hills and rocky flats are broom free. I wonder if they have an eradication plan in mind...and if 'they' do they need to get their bums into gear!

Lisa wanders about in amongst the flowers taking photos and we find a leathery brown trout on the banks of the stream. It looks like it may have become stranded after the water level dropped or in fact was washed out of the flow when a passing vehicle used the nearby ford.

We decide we haven’t time to drive to the end of the road, it’s still about 20kms away and Lisa has to return to Dunedin later in the afternoon and she plans to take the Hakakaramea Pass Road back home (little does she know that she’s going to have a bit of vehicle trouble before she gets there and doesn’t arrive home until close to midnight). We turn around at the end of trees on the left and return to the stream in the dip below.

Directly across the lake from the look out point I can see the wide Cass River delta where David & I explored and found the black stilt the other day.

We stop at a stream where the wind isn’t so strong so Lisa can grab some shots of the lupins before she returns home.

Never one to miss an opportunity and especially one that involves lupins, I take some of the closed flower spikes.

Lupin photos taken, we head off back towards the main road where we stop to say our farewells before Lisa heads off to the left, me to the right and back home to Lake McGregor.

I stop one last time just before I turn into the camp ground, I had spotted the yellow ribbon of broom across the lake the other day and now I’ve visited it. I wonder how far it reaches back up the winding gully.

I also take a photo across a muddy bay to Motuariki Island from the western side of the lake. Somewhere on the shores of the muddy bay in the foreground there should be some more black stilts. We’ll go exploring there soon.

Majestic Mountains- Lake Hawea

While at Wanaka we did a road trip up SH8, along the edge of Lake Hawea headed towards Haast Pass. Our destination and turn-around point was the DOC camp at Boundary Creek, a few kilometres before Makarora and well before the Pass itself. We’re leaving Haast Pass until we head to the West Coast to do the southern half later this year or it may even be early next.

It was a cold and bitter day- it’s something that has caught us on the hop a little. Yes, we knew it was going to be cold down here, it is after all winter. But some days it's a bone chilling cold that gets under your skin and refuses to budge, even when you’re layered & wrapped up to the hilt. Some days it's hard to get active especially when it's lovely and warm in the van. The diesel heaters have more than earnt their keep. And you’ll notice I said heaters- more than one. We have had the one we left in Christchurch to be repaired returned to us in Wanaka and David re-fitted it with no issues.

The low cloud cover on this day didn’t help either, it always feels more dull and uninviting when there’s low cloud and rain waiting in the wings. We stopped at the Lake Hawea lookout which would have been a fabulous spot to view the mountains across the other side of the lake.....

...had the cloud not been so low.

Looking up the lake I decided that by the time we returned back along the road the cloud might have lifted enough for us to see the mountains and any snow that might be on them. Lake Hawea is huge, it’s narrow and very long, it stretches quite a distance up past the island you can see in this photo.

We follow the road high up above the lake before it passed through a cutting known as ‘The Neck’, a narrow pass that keeps Lakes Hawea & Wanaka apart.

Once through The Neck, Lake Wanaka appears, spread out in front of us with her mountain range in view across the lake.

We now drive along the lake edge at the top end of Lake Wanaka. We stop at the DOC camp at Boundary Creek for lunch but decide to move on when all we can hear are the high-pitched revs of numerous chainsaws. It’s a weekend and there are a number of groups collecting firewood from the lake shore.

We head back towards Lake Hawea, stopping a couple of times to check out roadside waterfalls and the view looking down Lake Wanaka.

We leave Lake Wanaka behind us and pull into The Neck so I can take a photo of Lake Hawea. What a stunning view, you couldn’t mistake this classic New Zealand scene with those cabbage trees in the foreground either. It must be a thrill for visitors to come over the brow of The Neck and have this sight appear in front of them- hopefully with no cloud cover. I can see that our cloud from this morning has lifted.

We drive down below the neck and take a side track that turns in and heads around the otherside of this arm of the lake. We want to check out another DOC Camp, Kidds Bush at Bushy Point. Unfortunately the camp site is closed for winter and the farmer has locked the access gate. So we turn around and pull onto a large open area not far from the gate and close to the lake to have our lunch. Lovely hot soup and a bread roll (or sometimes a sandwich) are our lunch of choice most days at the moment. Enough to warm the cockles and keep the afternoon chill at bay.

The road back along Lake Hawea is across the arm from our picnic site, running along the bottom of this ‘hill’, Isthmus Peak (1417m) which separates Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. To get an idea of the height, there’s a house on a plateau, centre right of the photo. What a fabulous view they have.

And here we are travelling that road along the bottom of Isthmus Peak, heading towards the mountain range that was under cloud on our way up this morning.

Looking back across the lake arm towards Bushy Point, somewhere in those tress on the middle left is the DOC camp. We’ll definitely look forward to staying there in the summer.

And what a majestic mountain range it is, it’s very steep, reaching straight up out of the lake.

I think these peaks are part of the Huxley Range, which is further behind and part of the Southern Alps. A private road to Dingle Burn Station runs right along the bottom of the range and around the corner past the island.

The two tallest mountains are Corner Peak (1661m), on the corner of course. And Dingle Peak (1833m) just to the side and behind.

And a final panorama- four photos stitched together- of Lake Hawea (remember to click to enlarge)

We took a drive through the deserted and forlorn looking campground at the bottom of the lake before having a afternoon tea on the foreshore by the holiday settlement of Lake Hawea. I’m sure the settlement and campground are full to overflowing in the summer but today it would seem we were the only ones about.

We drove back home via Hawea Flat where I ‘found’ another lovely country church to shoot, St Ninians Presbyterian Church, built in 1938.