A Wet & Noisy Easter- Part 2

Luckily we had a couple of fine days before Easter because we certainly didn’t see much sun over the long weekend. And little did we know when we arrived, that the lake was hosting a powerboat regatta over Saturday & Sunday and the boat ramp was closed to all other watercraft. Not that we would have gone fishing; all the fish would have been sent to the bottom of the lake in fright. This is becoming a bit of a habit, it’s now the second time we’ve gate-crashed a regatta, the other one was the Classic Boat Show at Lake Rotoiti. That would also explain why there were so many campers about and people fighting for space to set up their tents and motorhomes.

Unfortunately for the organisers and participants the heavens opened up on Friday evening and it rained solidly all night and into the morning when it became torrential, with rivers of water cascading through the camp. Our water collection container was filling in 5 minutes flat- that saved us a trip to the water tap. For the neighbours behind us, there was nothing for it but to hunker down with a stubby around the camp fire while the kids had a ball riding around and playing in the rain.

By early afternoon the rain had stopped and it was all go down on the foreshore.

A crane and digger were used to lift the bigger hydroplane boats into the water.

And then all hell broke loose. The noise, oh the noise- our poor ears! But what excitement.

There were some awesome looking machines out there.

This looks like a very expensive sport.

The best bit was actually how close to the shore they were as they raced past. A thrilling spectacle.

Mrs Frosty Boy did a roaring trade even with the odd shower passing through.

And then it was the turn of the pocket rockets, the Formula One hydroplanes.

More noise and more excitement, these guys can turn on a penny. I was waiting for one to flip they turned at such a tight angle.

The turning marker buoy was right out front of the spectators, the bigger boats had used the island as the turning point.

Once the F1s had been seeded they then raced by starting directly off the beach, after being held steady by supporters.

On ignition the boats burst out of the blocks at near full speed.

And then there were the little guys; the Clubmans & Juniors.

Well they were little boats, some of the guys weren’t so little.

The rain held off for the rest of the afternoon with just a couple of passing showers. Sunday dawned sunny and we decided we’d go for a drive to explore while it was fine. And to escape the noise. There’s only so much you can take when you’re not watching the races- a few of the campers were here just for the break, like us, unaware that the racing was on. I bet they wished they'd picked a different lake.

We returned late afternoon to find the racing still in full swing with a lot more spectators. A sunny holiday afternoon brings out the Sunday drivers.

We watched some of the last races from our door.

Monday morning dawned overcast and the rain set in again by mid-morning. Most had packed and left before it started although a few had to struggle packing up wet tents & wet kids in the heavy rain.

And then they were gone, the only evidence of an action packed weekend were the overflowing bins…

….and the rained filled tire tracks. At least some of the local residents were pleased with the outcome.

And then we were back to being on our own again. And we’re still waiting for some sun, overnight the rain was non-stop torrential, the noise on the roof deafening and it’s rained on and off all day. The mist and cloud sit low around the lake and it’s pretty miserable but we’ll sit it out for a day or two, there’s not much point moving when it’s like this all along the Coast.

A Place People Drop Into- Mokai Canyon

We took a little tiki-tour out the back of Managweka, it’s a chance to explore an an area that most people would not visit, even though they may pass through the town frequently on their travels from north to south and visa-versa.

The Rangitikei river gorge & it’s papa rock cliffs stretch off into the distance and across the farmland we see a large viaduct.

This is one of 3 viaducts on the Mangaweka deviation which opened in 1981. Known as the south viaduct, it has five twin-shafted piers. At 78 metres high, and 315 metres long, this viaduct is the fourth highest and second longest in New Zealand. The South Viaduct was the first in the world to use energy-absorbing dampers in the foundation of the piers. In the event of an earthquake the piers will step from side to side but not collapse (I wonder if that's been put to the test yet...)

Not much further on and still surrounded by high papa cliffs- even the river tributaries have worn their way through the soft clay- we stop near the old Mangaweka Power Station(1911) and after having a look at the remains of the Power Station we walk along a short track to the dam. This is the Mangawharaiki River and the narrow canyon it flows through is amazing. The problem is I can’t get a clear view of it because the bank is so overgrown but the top right photo gives a little bit of an indication. The river bed has been carved into hundreds of hollows, ridges and small caves. It reminds me of a crocodile or tuatara skin, the way it curves it's way down the gorge.

We’re not on our own when we get to the dam wall, this is obviously the local's swimming hole. There’s a dozen or so teenagers swimming in the deep hole that’s formed at the bottom of the dam. They’re not only swimming after hauling themselves up the wall on a rope, they’re then launching themselves off the cliff  hanging onto another rope & dropping into the depths below.

There’s a stone stairway and then a ladder which we climb to get us to the top of the wall. I was expecting a large lake behind the dam but it was only a small pool. The power station stopped working in 1937 and one of the main reasons can still be seen today- a large log stuck firmly in the outlet tunnel beside the stairway.

I take some slow shutter shots of the waterfall from up the top but I feel uneasy standing on a small square of concrete above rushing water & knowing I have to get back down the ladder to get to the bottom. I offload my camera to David, who goes ahead of me, before I begin to inch my way down the ladder holding on for dear life- why's it always easier going up? Trouble is once you’re up you got to come down.  I keep my eyes looking right, there’s more vegetation on that side rather than an open space into the pool below on my left. I think it’s more the noise than the height that scares me most, I don’t like the sound of loud rushing water.

We leave the dam and weave our way inland where there are many view points of the river and it’s white cliffs. The gorge would have been a huge barrier for farmers in the early days, not just the height but the fact that it’s a very meandering river. Just when you think you’re left it behind it appears in front of you again.

We’re not finished with the river just yet either. Our next destination is a well known tourist attraction and being 22kms from the main highway you’d think not too many people would take the time to visit it. But this is the home of the most popular extreme sport spots in the North Island. The Mokai Canyon is where you can bungy jump, giant swing or zipline/flyingfox to your heart’s content as long as you’re prepared to empty out your bank account at the same time.

The Mokai Canyon itself is truly amazing and there is no way these photos can show you actually how deep the canyon is. Believe me it’s incredibly deep. Part of the river and canyons were used as Anduin River in LOTR- The Fellowship of the Rings, and I can now see why.

We had a coffee on the deck and while we were sitting there we heard faint screams. By the time I rushed onto the viewing platform a person on the zipline/flying fox had roared by, passing under the bridge and flying off towards the far end of the canyon attached to a wire which is 175 metres above the river and 1.1 kilometres long. They reach speeds of 160kp/h along the way.

I thought that the person may have been hauled up to the end platform to finish their ride but no he was slowly pulled backwards back along the line all the way to the beginning. Unfortunately I sat back down to finish my coffee before I realised this and missed the photo opportunity as he passed by out front. To give you an idea of the size, I could not make out the person in the harness as they were hauled up the last section, all I could see was a blob. That was until I zoomed in with my camera and realised that in fact there were two people in the harness.

In the photo above I have circled the platform where they left from- yeah that tiny speck! You can also see the stairway that the zipline riders have to climb to get there, to the left of the circle- that’s after climbing through the bush up the side of the canyon for a fair distance too. And in the photo below I’ve circled the platform at the other end where the wire is fixed. I’m not too sure I’d have liked to be the guinea pig that had to try the wire for the first time.

Below is the platform and stairway, and also the two people in the harness as they were pulled back to the platform. They then had to make their way back down the stairs and track to the shop. I always thought maybe I’d like to give this a go sometime but now having seen it in the flesh, there’s no way on earth you’d find me harnessed up. Not surprising I think you’d say after reading about my fear just climbing a simple little ladder!

Across the road from the Mokai Gravity Canyon is the Makino DOC campground and who do you think we found camped up there? The little van on a big road trip! I love the tarpaulin awning- it was a stinking hot day and our friends obviously needed some shade.

We completed our little road trip by stopping in Mangaweka so I could take some photos of of the iconic ‘famous in NZ’ DC3 plane tearooms. Once upon a time this would have been a huge novelty for Kiwis passing by, maybe it still is for young children, but nowadays I think it’s a bit old hat and more of a symbol for Mangaweka, a bit like the large carrot in Ohakune, the gumboot in Taihape, the salmon in Rakaia, the fruit in Cromwell, the trout (& guitar) in greedy Gore. And there are plenty of others.

I also wanted some photos of the old historic buildings along the deserted main street- deserted except for one lone guy in his beanie who came out from his house to have a coffee & a smoke on the bench.

There looks to have been an attempt to revive the street at some stage since the main highway bypassed the township back in the ‘70s. Some buildings are occupied with a few small businesses running, the pub looks like it has accommodation available while other shops have been converted into homes.

There are a few wall murals on the sides of buildings and art works here and there to add a bit of interest but the town does look like it’s on it’s last legs. A lot like many of the small rural towns we’ve seen on our travels.

There are two things I’ve learnt while taking photos of historic buildings in some of our smaller towns- the Bank of New Zealand & the Catholic Church had a whole heap of money and not much taste- well the BNZ had a little more than the Church, but both of them built concrete monstrosities that dominate the townscape (and the people?). Here’s the rather grand Mangaweka Bank of New Zealand-

And here’s the Taihape Catholic Church-

I rest my case.

Hidden Valley - Part 1

The Cobb Valley is a spectacular hidden valley located 30kms inland from Upper Takaka within the Kahurangi National Park. During the ice age the valley filled with a glacier which then carved the classic U-shaped straight valley, polishing and smoothing bedrock and dumping ridges of moraine (soil & rock) as it went. Today the valley has been dammed to form the Cobb Reservoir.

We had wanted to visit Cobb Valley after our trip to Mt Arthur & the Flora Area of the Park a few weeks ago where we saw on the information board that there were quite a number of points of interest on the otherside of the range, which actually wasn’t that far away from Flora as the crow flies. Of course there were a few very large mountains to cross in between, that’s the problem with leaflets & sign boards, they are flat and give a false impression of how difficult some of these tramping tracks are.

Initially I thought we may have taken the 5th-wheeler someway up the road and freedom camped on the side of the Takaka River but as we had already set up camp at Pohara we decided to do the 120km round trip to the valley. The road was great at the beginning, it followed the river inland and although it was narrow in places, it was sealed for the first 16kms right up to the Cobb Valley Power House.

We discussed whether we’d get the van in as far as the Power House and decided that there would be some areas like the one below that might give us a few issues. Solid rock overhangs or vertical walls tend not to move. This shot is a bit blurred, I took it through the window as we edged our way forward hoping that there wasn’t a vehicle coming the other way.

We stopped numerous times along the way so we could check out the river, David for trout & me for Whio (Blue Ducks). We saw neither but at one stop I heard a familiar honking. It seemed to be coming from above and I expected to see a pair of Paradise Ducks fly by. The honking continued but no ducks flew by and the noise definitely wasn’t coming from the river level. So I scanned the trees above us and then spotted a female paradise duck roosting on a dead tree high up in the forest canopy. And beside her but slightly lower and in the shade was her mate resting up too.

I wonder how many know that Paradise Ducks land in trees. I have seen it before, there was a huge gum tree at my old golf club and a pair of ducks often roosted in it. I’ve watched them fly in and land on the narrow trucks too, something you wouldn’t think a duck could do. Obviously Paradise Ducks love high points, remember the pairs on the picnic tables at Totaranui?

Next stop was the Power House. If you’ve been following the blog headers then this will look familiar. Although the header photo was a side view showing all the ‘spent’ water exiting through the side wall of the Power House (I'll post that photo again in Part 2). I’ve never seen water coming out the side of the building like that before.

David spotted his one and only trout at the bridge, a large rainbow who obviously knew it wasn’t the season as he was happy to stay put as we moved about above him. Another month and he’ll have to be a lot more wary.

The road turned to gravel (custard?) after the power house, it was extremely narrow and wound it’s way upwards through beautiful native forest, we were now in the Kahurangi National Park proper. There were very few areas to pull over if another vehicle approached and we sat on the edges of our seats peering around every bend hoping like hell nothing was coming.

Usually the road from the power house to the dam is just a short climb but this one was 6km, 5 of them at a very steep angle with very tight bends right up to the top of the range. And then, as we neared the top, we struck snow again, just as we did at Flora. In fact probably the same snow fall but luckily, there was just one thick ice patch to cross in the shade and a lot on the side of the road.

Once out of the bush the road levelled out and we were into an alpine landscape with the Cobb Ridge shelter and information kiosk ahead of us on the side of the road.

We pulled up ahead of the shelter and this was the spectacular view that greeted us; the Cobb reservoir stretching up the valley towards the snow capped mountains of the Peel Range. The dam wall and intake are hidden in the bottom right corner, and the building you can see to the left is one of three that house Hydro employees although only one was occupied. The track along the lake on the right is part of the walking track to Sylvester Hut & the Sylvester Lakes, it turns inland and heads uphill at the first valley. The road on the left side is where we’re headed, from the top here, it’s another 11kms to the head of the lake just out of view at the end.

While we were reading the information board I caught sight of a movement out the corner of my eye. It was a great delight to see that it was a weka, a large flightless bird that has a famously feisty and curious personality. He (or she) burst out of the scrub growing on the steep slope, gave us a cursory glance and strode off around the shelter to the sunny side where it set about preening and fluffing it’s feathers.

I’ve been waiting to make a weka’s acquaintance, this was our first weka on this trip, another bird to tick off my birder’s list. I’ve seen them a long time ago when we did a trip to the Westcoast but nothing since then as there are only a few small pockets of wekas in the North Island.

The weka let me get reasonably close but it wouldn’t stay still long enough for me to get a decent shot. And while I was trying to take photos it took off again, straight down a rocky slope in front of it where it suddenly grabbed something in it’s bill from underneath the scrub. It turned around and headed back up the rocks at full speed, crossed the road and disappeared under the bush on the other side, never to be seen again.

Not usually known for their speed, my shutter wasn’t set to "fast for weka dinner” and I only managed to grab a blurred image of what it grabbed. I thought it looked like a lizard but when I uploaded the photo and “enhanced” it as best as I could, it appeared to be a small frog (or, I even thought a chick at one stage). David thought it might have been a weta or a grasshopper. And all of these were suggested when I posted the photos on my bird forum (except the chick; it looked too small). See what you think. Here's the original-

And the "enhanced" & cropped shot- 

While I was trying to do the weka photo shoot, I heard a shout. It took me a few moments to find out where David has disappeared to. He had climbed down a bank and out to this marker post right out on the edge of the cliff. It had some sort of measurement indicator on it and there was another post down below on the dam wall with a measurement too.

We had a look across the road to see if the weka might make another appearance after it had eaten dinner but all David found was, what was probably the left-overs of his dinner last week. The empty shell of our giant native land snail, powelliphanta. A snail that is greatly endangered and only found in a few areas around the top of the South Island and the bottom of the North Island.

I should have taken a photo of this in my hand so you could get an indication of the size but it had about a 50mm diametre (2 inches). Powelliphanta can live up to 20 years & can grow up to 90mm. You can see where a bird has punctured the shell to pull out the body. Another first to add to out list, now we want to find a live one.

…….to be continued- Part 2