Moria Gate Arch- Oparara Basin

The 30 minute walk to the second arch in the Oparara Basin is through some stunning scenery, the rainforest is an enchanted wonderland; a large variety of mosses in all shades of green cling to and drape off every available trunk, branch & twig. Soft green ferns cover the forest floor and taller tree ferns spread their feathery fronds overhead. There’s also alot of birdsong and the odd alarm call, as flashes of movement catch our eye as birds fly from tree to tree.

A lot of foresight, money, hard work & volunteer hours has gone into making the Oparara Basin the jewel in the crown of the northern West Coast’s ecotourism attractions. It’s a pity that the road can’t take bigger tour buses & motorhomes as many people miss out on seeing this spectacular area (actually, that in fact might just be a good thing after seeing the over-run carparks surrounding Punakaiki Rocks later on in our trip).

More enchanted forest and a natural moss topiary.

The track eventually led to this rocky hole in the ground. We were thinking this can’t be the Moria Gate Arch surely? Then David spotted a chain rope down the side of the rocks and after clambering through we inched our way down over the boulders into darkness.....

…to be greeted by this amazing sight- the Moria Gate Arch! The arch was named in 1984 after the mythical gate to the dark world in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

And just to show you the shear size of the cavern, there’s David standing on the rocks to the side, looking for blue ducks again.

The Moria Gate Arch is viewed in 3D, there's the arch above- looking into the cave- then the one below looking down stream from inside, the rocks in front are about where David is standing in the photo above.

And the third one, looking back in the other direction, up-stream.

And up-stream again, with David silhouetted to put things in perspective.

Moria Gate Arch is spectacular and by far the loveliest of the two arches, a visual treat and an amazing feat by Mother Nature. Absolutely stunning.

We clamber back out through the opening in the rock meeting another couple finding their way inside. If you ever visit Moria Gate, don’t be put off by this odd entrance, it’s quite safe with the chain to help you up and down but sturdy shoes are a must to help with grip on the slippery rock surfaces.

The Moria Gate Arch Track forms a loop crossing over the Oparara River and passing the Mirror Tarn on it’s way back to the carpark. I decide to walk the loop- it’s another hour back to the carpark, David retraces his steps and will then drive to the Tarn carpark and meet me there. It is a shame as just a little further on the forest becomes even more beautiful- if that is possible- I could explore out here for hours, studying every little plant, moss and insect I came across. There are so many beautifully formed miniature mosses & lichen. I’m not sure the short bit of track with the moa print paving stones over the top of the arch is quite the look but I guess it’s providing protection.

It’s actually a surprise when I come to a short side track that leads to a lookout with a view back towards Moria Gate Arch. At this stage I hadn’t realised that those moa print pavers actually led me over the top of the arch. You couldn’t see down either side, it was just a track through thick bush. Clever idea and it does protect the arch.

The arch was stunningly beautiful from this angle too, and that tannin stained Oparara River just adds to the beauty and mystique of the place.

As I said the track just gets prettier and prettier, this has to have been one of the most beautiful walks I’ve done. I just wish David had done it with me.

I caught sight of movement a few steps ahead of me and found this beetle scurrying across the path. This is a native Stinking Ground Beetle, the Maori name Kurikuri means dog-like. It can give a sharp nip- one look at those pincers tell me that- and also emit a powerful stench if disturbed. I was unaware of that defense. I carefully transferred it to the end of this stick, took some photos and then poked the stick in a log, which the beetle quickly disappeared into. He must have been happy with me, no stench detected!

I stopped once again at the Mirror Tarn, the sun had come out a little since my earlier visit and the reflections were not so sharp. I found a henna painted WWOOFer with a weird hairdo contemplating life beside the tarn and taking up most of the tiny viewing space. He told me he’d brought a car load of backpackers up to the Basin for the day and they were off walking. He just wanted to soak up the beauty and I got the impression I was disturbing his peace with my clicking!

I left him to his solitude and headed back down the track which was running along side the Oparara River again. I met David about halfway, he’d brought the car up and was walking in to meet me.

We had an awesome day exploring the Oparara Basin, seeing amazing limestone arches, unusual caves and the most beautiful scenery- my highlight was the Mirror Tarn followed a close second by Moria Gate. I’d highly recommend a visit to this very special place if you are in the area. If you’re in a motorhome though, I’d beg, borrow or steal a car so you can get there safely. Or arrange a tour from Karamea.

I have a little story to share before I leave the Basin-

I very nearly lost my phone to the Oparara Basin- now that would have been a disaster & you’d most probably still be waiting for blog posts. I’d be lost without my phone’s ‘hotspot’ (yes, I could have used David’s, but he’s rather protective of his data).

You’ll remember I very nearly killed my phone when we walked the Sawcut Gorge, forgetting that I had it in my back pocket as we waded through a deep pool. After some tender loving care and much swearing and frustration David managed to nurse it back to health. Phew many $$$$ saved.

So it was with great alarm and an awful sinking feeling when I heard a ‘kurplunk’ as I rearranged my clothing after visiting the loo before we left the carpark for home. ‘Oh no, bloody hell’ I thought (or words to that effect) and without any hesitation (which really does surprise me) I reached into the bowl to retrieve my submerged phone. YUK, YUK & DOUBLE YUK. All I can say is thank God it was only number ones and double thank God that it was a regular toilet and not one of the usual DOC loos with the balance plate that empties into the tank as the weight goes on, or worse still, a long drop. It really would have been a gonna then.

I raced outside to the ute where David was waiting, clutching my dripping cellphone. All kudos to my ‘knight in shining armour’, he didn’t hesitate in whipping the cover and the back off and was straight into trying to rid it of the moisture. The phone died immediately (who wouldn’t), but he quickly smothered it in tissues & dried it as best he could then we wrapped it in tissues and I sat on it(!) to try and keep it warm to get rid of more moisture. Then we waited. 

The hand sanitizer and wet-wipes we keep in the glove-box were certainly put to good use that day.

Later, after a few false starts, some weird noises & crossed messages my phone burst back into life. And in fact a couple of quirky things it had been doing after the first save have now gone. It’s like new again! I wonder how many lives a phone has.....

Selwyn Huts & Akaroa

We took the long way to Banks Peninsula, driving to the end of the road on the south side of Lake Ellesmere, a huge shallow lagoon separated from the ocean by an 18km long spit. There are two tiny fishing crib(bach) settlements near the end; Selwyn Huts & Lower Selwyn Huts. Here the ramshackle stand alongside the cute & tidy. Many of the “huts” are lived in full time & although it looks like an idyllic lifestyle I am sure many of the people are refugees from the Christchurch ‘quakes. The post man sure has an easy job!

We provided the daily entertainment for some of the residents who were sitting outside soaking up the sun as we slowly passed through the villages with our home on the back. We were quietly hoping there was going to be a turning circle at the end of the road otherwise we’d have been backing into one of their drives! There was, so we parked up and had some lunch....

.....before walking down a track on the river bank, surrounded by native plantings and wetlands, right to the end which overlooked Lake Ellesmere. This is looking towards Banks Peninsula.

Across the lake with Kaitorete Spit on the horizon; six Pied Shags preening & one pied shag pooing!

As we drove back through Selwyn Huts, we both liked this crib which we both thought would be a great fishing hut to have. Across the road and over the river bank, there are plenty of private jetties or whitebait stands belonging to the huts. A lot were set up with fire pits, deck chairs & tables.

We skirted right around the lake heading for Duvauchelle Camp Ground on Banks Peninsula arriving just before the sun dipped behind the range behind and giving me enough time to walk across to take some photos of the boatsheds in the setting sun.

Looking back towards the camp ground which is just across the road from the stony beach of Duvauchelle Bay.

The camp ground is another well run ship, this time by caretakers for the Christchurch City Council. There are quite a number of caravans with permanent rooms & conservatories attached, but no one living in them full time. The owners pay a yearly fee & must use them for at least 30 days during the year, paying the going nightly rate. There’s a large green with casual camping sites right around the perimeter. It must be a busy place in the summer and very communal with, I can imagine, all the children playing cricket or running around in the centre of the field. Other than one other couple on the first night, we have been the only people staying this past week although a few have arrived at the permanent sites yesterday for the start of the school holidays.

The snow arrived on the top of the hills around us the night we arrived and the next day was cold & grey. We drove around the bays to Akaroa, 9kms away, to have breakfast at The Brassiere. The town was virtually deserted, just a few tourists about & us.

After breakfast we took a tour along the waterfront past the sailing club and the old lighthouse which after it was decommissioned was moved in 1980 from Akaroa Heads to this inner harbour site.

I wanted to visit an historic church that was located on the shoreline further down the harbour towards the heads but we took the wrong road and ended up in a dead end. It was rather a coincidence to find a lost hat on the side of the road there. Someone’s red French beret, totally befitting that it be found near the former French settlement of Akaroa.

We turned back and located the correct road which went up and over a crest before dropping back down to the shoreline, the roads are very steep, winding and narrow all over the peninsula. In another tiny bay we found the small settlement of Onuku, once a thriving Maori settlement with it’s marae & tiny church the centre points of the community.

Onuku Church built in 1878.

A couple of days later (after we had done a little exploring- blogs still to come), I left David relaxing at the van while I went off for a few hours on a photo shooting expedition. It was a lovely sunny day & Akaroa (Maori for long harbour) looked stunning in the winter sunshine.

Akaroa wharf, where the nature watching tour boats leave from. Rare Hectors dolphins, NZ fur seals & White-flippered penguins (a sub-species of the Little Blue penguin & only found on Banks Peninsula) are all found within the harbour.

You can see a smattering of snow on the range up behind the town. In fact the blog header photo was taken up there before I dropped down to the harbour.

A Little Black shag (kawau) drying it’s wings on the edge of the wharf.

Wharfs End……looking across to French Farm Bay

Daly’s Wharf, Akaroa (built 1914)

And more boat sheds in Duvauchelle Bay, these ones are across the bay from the others.